Headstock Logo Question

Hi All,

I've done a few PBG kits and have been using waterslide decals so far, and been really happy with the results. With my current build however i'm not sure of the best approach and the order of steps based on which one i select.

I'm doing a multiscale 7 string quilted maple top kit and have just applied angelus leather dye. I'm going to finish off using Cabot's marine grade clear gloss poly (spray can), with the matt finish on the back of the neck.

I'm hoping to get away with not having to sand and polish given what finish i'm using so that means i won't be able to feather the sanding where the decal sits to make it invisible.

So...been thinking about other options. I want to do a gold logo so i have a gold sharpie and a gold posco paint pen and was thinking of doing it by hand but have a few questions on doing that.

1. Would the sharpie or the paint pen be better in this situation, and would they bleed a little making the logo fuzzy?
2. Should i do this straight onto the dye or put down a layer of clear first?

I’ve tried a gold Sharpie on black nitro and it doesn’t look good. On white paper it comes up bright and even-looking. On a black painted background you can see that it doesn’t produce a thick enough layer to get a consistent gold colour. It’s thin in places and thicker in others. It’s almost good enough, but not quite. I’ve used it for a hand-written serial number where it’s supposed to look hand-written, but I didn’t consider it even enough to go on the headstock face for writing that was mimicking a ‘Les Paul Model’ style of writing.

I didn’t try multiple applications of the Sharpie as I didn’t think I could duplicate the outline evenly enough on writing, but you might be better with a geometric shape logo, especially if you can mask the outline.

My experiences with acrylic paint pens are fairly similar. You tend to get thick ridges at the edges and a thinner section in the middle. On a black paint background, this makes it more obvious. It’s worse if the surface is shiny as surface tension tends to suck the paint into ridges.

What I haven’t tried is Sharpie or a paint pen onto a stained wood finish. That’s going to be more absorbent, like paper is, so should give a better result. Whether a single pass would be good enough, I don’t know. Whether multiple passed would build into a uniform solid colour, again, I don’t know. Because a Sharpie uses a spirit solvent you nay find that it releases some of the dye and darkens the gold in places. There is probably a lesser risk of this happening with an acrylic paint pen, but it may happen. The obvious solution would be to put some clear on first, but then you run into the issues I first described.

So straight onto dye is the better option for me, but I would’t try it in the headstock and hope. I’d stain some test pieces of maple and try a Sharpie and a paint pen on that. The surface needs to be pretty flat otherwise you’ll get gold on the grain ridges and very little in any dips.

It may be easier to live with ridges from a decal or a vinyl sticker in order to get a more professional-looking logo. You’ll only see a ridge from fairly close up an at an angle, whilst a wonky-edged and uneven logo will be noticeable from a lot further away. Lots of Fenders have had obvious decal ridges in the past.

What about making a larger truss rod cover and putting the logo on that? You can then finish the headstock as you want and put the decal and some layers of finish on the TRC. The decal backing can fully cover the TRC to minimise finish applications. Just make sure the finish goes over the edges of the TRC if you do that to stop the edges from coming loose.

Or make an obvious logo plate that sits proud of the headstock? A few makers have done that; Shergold for certain.

Custom cut gold vinyl decals are so cheap to get made. I get a few done at a time from a trusted cutter and apply them over clear coat once cured. Never looked back and heaps quicker and easier than burying waterslides.

If you know of anyone who has a Cricut or similar you can easily cut if you have a design that can be easily done on the software or you have a dxf or png format.

Thanks Simon for the comprehensive info, and it basically confirms what i was thinking but wanted to check. I figured it may be better to just live with the visible ridge because as you mentioned, its only when up close and on an angle anyway. I've thought about use the truss rod cover for some time but haven't done it, so may be an opportunity to do so...something to think about.

I like the idea of custom vinyl decals, a lot less issues than waterslides which whilst i've had success with can sometimes be hit and miss. Who do you go through Bakersdozen?

I've also thought about investing in a Cricut but haven't been able to justify the cost just for the headstock logo! But who knows, if i keep making kits i might just have to get one :D

I have a Cricut Joy and use it for a lot of my builds. I love the ability to make small changes to logos in terms of size. The initial cost is a bit steep, but then the cost of creating vinyl logos is really cheap. If I stuff-up a logo it is quick to make a new one! I normally put tru-oil over the top, but some have no clear coats.

I have also tried packing tape decals, and water slide decals - but Vinyl for me now though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by a_novice

Who do you go through Bakersdozen?

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https://cvdecals.com.au/

I have not done this myself, but I know lots of others that have made Fender-style spaghetti logos with waterslide decals by printing a black outline of the letters on the front of the decal paper (just you normally would) then filling in the letters on the backside with gold (or silver) paint pen.

If you've been successful and happy with waterslide, this might be an option that's already within your comfort zone.

Thanks everyone...

McCreed - i was going to try that exact method given i've used waterslides so much and already purchased 2 packs and haven't used them all yet.

I really like the idea of a Cricut, but i would really need to use it for more than just guitar logos to make the purchase worthwhile! I don't build enough guitars to pay for it (lol).

I might try the reverse waterslide and if that doesn't come out then look at vinyl.

I found a two stage process can sort of negate the raised edge. First use a stencil to spray your logo and let it dry. Then use a negative stencil that masks the logo and spray a coat of clear. Let it dry and remove the mask. this provides a surface with the logo at the same level as the rest of the headstock. Then spray the remaining coats of clear. The alternative is the standard spray enough coats of clear that you have enough thickness built up to sand level, then and complete coats of clear for your final finish

Thanks Rabbit, what a simple solution! Should have thought of that :-) I've managed to do a decent job on the reverse gold logo and lettering with a gold posca paint pen so going to do a few test runs to see how it turns out.