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So, I bought some beeswax to fill screw holes prior to wetsanding, based on recommendations in the forums
The beeswax from Bunnings is in a hard block.
How do I use this? Does it need to be melted first somehow? Shaved into a plug? I've no idea how to use this product to temporarily plug screw holes.
Thanks for your advice!
I think McCreed uses beeswax paste, rather than solid beeswax. The paste looks to be a mixture of beeswax and turpentine. So you could have a go at maxing some paste yourself, but it will probably be easier to buy a jar/tin of it.
I use the solid beeswax for scraping onto screws before fitting, so it shouldn’t go to waste.
Heating up the wax so it’s soft enough to push down holes will probably make it warm enough to mark the finish.
Sounds like the paste wax one of the guys at the shed (ex cabinet maker) uses. Not sure if it's turps or another solvent he uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
The bought pastes I've seen pictures of on-line state 'pure turpentine' on the label.
I use the block bee's wax. (I also got mine from Bunnings)
I just use a paddle-pop stick to scrape a bit directly off the block near the hole and then use the same stick to pack it in.
There will be a small bit of wax that smears around the hole, but it doesn't matter. It will come off once you start wet sanding, or if it really worries you, it can be cleaned off quickly with a rag dampened with naptha before sanding.
FWIW, I've had that block for about 5 years and it will probably be here when I'm gone. And that's with uses varying from hole plugging to waxing screw threads, to minor pickup repairs.
I know somebody’s mentioned using wax paste.
Thanks for the advice. I'll start plugging today with beeswax, and keep a little shellite (naptha) on hand for clean up.
Then the level and wet sand.
If you're going to initially dry sand to level, I would leave the wax out until you're ready to wet sand. Less chance of any residual wax clogging the dry paper. Less of an issue with the finer grade wet paper IME.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
Thanks McCreed. That's great advice - much appreciated.
Beeswax worked a treat!
Attachment 43508
If you want it properly flat and shiny, I think you’re going to need to sand a lot harder than that. I can see a lot of ‘orange peel’ in that picture. It’s up to you as to how you want it finished, but if you are aiming for a standard Fender gloss finish, then that surface needs to be really flat before you start going up through the grits. Hold it up to a bright light at a shallow angle. The bits you’ve sanded should be dull as a result, but pits in the finish will still shine and reflect light. You just keep sanding until there are no shiny pits. It’s why you’ve put a lot of clear coats on - because you’re taking quite a lot off again. Then and only then do you move to the finer grits and the rubbing compounds.
A tack on to that, rather than faffing around with lighting trying to find shiny spots, an easier way is with a guide coat. Mist on some cheap spray paint in a contrasting colour (any cheap and nasty spray paint will do). You are just misting it on, not going for a proper coat, so reactions with different finishes is unlikely. Some of the paint will settle in the low spots. You just sand till the colour is gone, then you know you have a levelled surface to work with. It's an old spray painters trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden