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I was looking through the Pitbull website, these are offset teles, right? Do they come with the same bridge plate as the TL-1, which appears to have holes for either through body or rear string entry? Thx
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ic-guitar-kit/
Just going by the photos on the product pages of each, the DJT-1 bridge doesn't appear to be drilled for a string-through.
However, hardware packs included in the kits can vary as, TTBOMK, they are acquired from different manufacturers depending on supply.
It may be worth emailing Pitbull and asking if they can confirm what bridge type is in the one of the actual kits. Obviously I can't speak for them, but they may even have a string-through plate kicking around if that's your preference. Doesn't hurt to ask...
I've emailed Pitbull, just waiting to hear back. The DJT-1 is an offset tele, isn't it?
You could certainly call it an offset Tele. But looking at the kit pictures, as McCreed says, the bridge looks to be top-loading only. Not that there aren't lots of cheap string-through bridges around if you want to make it string-through. But the body isn't drilled for string-through, so you'd have to do that yourself.
Reason I want the TL-1 plate is that photos suggest it has both top loading & string through holes. Plan would be to use as top loader initially, then when happy with bridge location convert to string through. I also asked if the kit could be supplied without bridge plate holes. Forgot to ask if a black pickguard could be supplied.
Here's a picture of the bridge from the product page.
Attachment 43252
Only the 4 screw mounting holes, no string-through holes.
FWIW, if you want a string-through, you're better of doing it now than down the track IMO.Quote:
Reason I want the TL-1 plate is that photos suggest it has both top loading & string through holes. Plan would be to use as top loader initially, then when happy with bridge location convert to string through.
The challenge of drilling the string holes and then the ferrule holes is compounded if the body has been finished, because things can go wrong and you risk scratching or damaging the existing finish. This results in touch-ups or possibly a total refinish on top the initial job. (don't ask me how I know this :o)
Also, if for some reason you need to use a different bridge for the string-through, there may be issues matching the mounting holes or other alignment problems.
Just my two cents...
I'm waiting for a reply too but realised it's a public holiday today everywhere but here in Qld.Quote:
Originally Posted by guitalias
I agree with McCreed. If you want both options, much easier to do it now than later. It’s surprising how different the footprint and mounting hole locations of different ‘modern’ Tele bridges are (even Fender’s own units). Only the vintage ashtray ones seem to be compatible between manufacturers.
Yep, this is why I'm awaiting confirmation the TL-1 bridge plate is drilled for both top loading & string through. So I can get scale length spot on with top loading, mark through holes for string through, drill, counterbore for ferrules, with the same TL-1 bridge plate. Then remove hardware, final prep & finish.
It may well be, but you’ll have to buy one. Unlikely you’d get a swap. And you may still have to plug and drill the mounting holes as there’s no guarantee that they come from the same factory. Pit Bull kits come from 3 or 4 different factories, and the hardware kits those factories buy in from other factories are generally similar but not identical.
You can get a Wilkinson tele bridge with 3 compensated brass saddles and top-load or string-through for $55 from Realparts. (plus $4.95 EXPRESS shipping!) They're excellent and just up the Sunshine Coast.
LINKY
This one, right?
https://www.realparts.com.au/bridges...ge-chrome.html
PitBull have said they would supply swapped & with black pickguard.
Beginning to think it might be easier to scratch build a body (done it before) & preferred hardware, just buy a 25.5 scale PitBull neck.
That's the bridge.
If you can scratch-build the body, then why not. But could you get similarly figured ash for the body, or aren't you bothered about that and are happy using other woods?
Just ordered DJT-1 with TL-1 bridge & rosewood fretboard. Black pickguard not available, nor are string ferrules. Will build as string through at first. Then consider making black pickguard, upgrade to Wilkinson bridge with brass compensated saddles & go string through with ferrules. Will start a new build thread.
Check on the string-through spacing before buying replacement bridges. The string spacing is probably 52.5 mm E to E, but some Tele bridges are 54mm and you don’t want a mismatch between the body string holes and the holes in the bridge plate. Whatever spacing you drill the body holes at will determine the replacement bridge spacing.
Tele bridges can also vary in length and string-through hole position relative to the pickup position. So if you are going to upgrade the bridge, measure carefully and get one with the same relative dimensions (though I’d go straight to a replacement bridge myself).
Thanks. Yeah, I am considering going straight for the replacement. Another build, TL-1, I saw found the saddle screws were a different length with replacement bridge. A Wilkinson bridge I bought for another project was supposed to have 10.5mm saddles. They are 10.8mm saddles on a plate with 10.5 spacing. PITA.