Another scratch build.

Well it's that time of the year when the weather is (slightly) warmer in the Uk and thoughts turn to guitar building. Thoroughly enjoyed my last year's one and it's the one I've been gigging with pretty regularly since then.

Decided I'd like a fairly simple P style (ish) bass so I set about drawing one.

https://i.imgur.com/nbxwKKo.jpg

Wood however is a little more problematic. It's really costly in the UK, and a decent slab of something is £60 or so, with a further £20 for the neck and then more for the fretboard. So I thought I'd try and continue the theme of using recycled wood (my first one was made from an old mantlepiece), though this does mean a little more work.

https://i.imgur.com/l1sQAx7.jpg

I was slightly fortunate that might wife decided to get rid of an old drop leaf table, made of mahogany, shown in the pic. I also had some bits of iroko left from the last build though these aren't as nice as the last bits and there are some nail holes. I've got some wood flooring (oak) and some other light coloured wood used in an old bit of furniture - no idea what. Ash possibly? Anyway it was all I had so it would have to be some sort of laminate, both for the neck and the body. At least it would give me a chance to play with my new Christmas present - a No. 7 Jointer plane!!

https://i.imgur.com/3IsEREr.jpg

I don't have a table saw (yet!) so using the bandsaw I cut up some strips for the neck and after some planing, I played around to see what they looked like.

https://i.imgur.com/e0t1BJY.jpg

Not quite wide enough, so I cut up some more and after glueing them, cleaning them up, and planing them flat, I ended up with this.

https://i.imgur.com/9ebduah.jpg

.......

... I had to buy a fretboard (in fact I bought two) so I can make another fairly soon after. It's Panga Panga and they were about £6 each so not too bad.

I had marked out the neck ready for the truss rod, set the router up and then switched it on.... nothing. Slightly disappointing as I bought it new last year. Fortunately Bosch were brilliant, came and picked it up the next morning and then emailed the day after saying they couldn't fix it and sent me a new one!

So now the body. I planned to use the iroko at the sides and keeping with the laminate idea, have that in the centre. Some considerable time later after a lot of sawing and planing, making sure the template I'd made would fit (only just!!) I glued them together.

https://i.imgur.com/pHj13m1.jpg

With the neck, this is the kind of effect I was going for....

https://i.imgur.com/hHuXvBE.jpg

... and with the templates....

https://i.imgur.com/7C7dxKG.jpg

After taking the clamps off, the body was a shade under 48mm(50mm in some areas). I wanted around 41/42 to allow for sanding, so back to the plane.... and some cardio!

https://i.imgur.com/CKCKtDP.jpg

There was then somewhat of a hiatus as I decided to reorganise my garage/workshop. I'd divided it in two many years ago and put a wall up so I can use one half as a study, but I'd had enough so knocked the wall down and put it back to a full garage/workshop. Much better!!

Fast forward to Easter. Having finally got the workshop sorted and a load of gigs out of the way, I managed to get some time to press on. I cut out the body shape.

https://i.imgur.com/45OgxMz.jpg

The neck heel part is a little wide but I'll trim that to size once I've got the neck to size (went for a slight change in dimensions).

After routing to the template, rounding off the edges, using the trusty Shinto rasp to do the belly carve and arm carve, it looks like this.

https://i.imgur.com/5ancvAq.jpg

Still some more work as the bottom isn't quite right, however it's getting there.

Next it's time to do some work on the neck. With my brand new router (and now two boxes of accessories) I measured out and then cut the slot for the truss rod. Little bit of chiselling for the head of the rod and bingo.

https://i.imgur.com/n9yPOF3.jpg

I can't decide whether to glue the fretboard on and then cut to shape, or cut to shape then glue the fretboard. Whatever happens I need to glue some 'ears' on the headstock end as there isn't quite enough wood for the headstock shape. So that's the next job.

Happy Easter everyone.

Nice work Stu!
I enjoyed watching your first build. Still love that old bench!

+1 for nice work. The laminations are looking great.

Following this one with interest.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Will be interesting to see how it looks with finish on it!

Nice work.

So some more progress. I glued the fretboard on...

https://i.imgur.com/ky2swER.jpg

Then after trimming round the template and a little bit of planing the edges to make it flat, I ended up with this.

https://i.imgur.com/Vq2a7jD.jpg

So far so good. Next step to slice away a bit of the headstock and then radius the fretboard. Rather than sand away everything, i decided to plane the sides a bit first to get a head start. What a difference! Took about a quarter of the time to get it done.

https://i.imgur.com/fVZsEyc.jpg

Having done all that I measured and cut the fret slots. Made a boo boo with the second one, so had to fill it with dust and glue and then recut it. The (jumbo) frets should hide any imperfections. Annoying though.

https://i.imgur.com/DaNfFbD.jpg

Then it was a case of shaping the neck. As before I got my trusty Shinto rasp out and after measuring the required depth, started to file away around the first fret with the intention of doing the same at the heel end and then joining them together.

At least that was the plan....

https://i.imgur.com/KrqHjuy.jpg

Seems I may have gone a little too deep with the truss rod slot!!!

https://i.imgur.com/uBrDf9Y.jpg

Trying to work out why. The fretboard was 9mm at the start and even after rounding, it wasn't much less than that. I recall that I had to go a little deeper on the nut end of the truss road to cope with the slightly odd shape of it (it's a double action one) - and having just measured it I actually went to 14mm!! Oops. Didn't think it was that much. Plus the 8-9mm of the board and clearly there wasn't anywhere near enough material.

As it's useless now, I steamed the fretboard off and so could possibly use that again and took the truss rod out as well.

Bit annoying. Actually very annoying! Someone did say on my first build that it all went rather smoothly, so I guess this is karma! Still, nothing lost but time.

I don't really have any more wood that's suitable, so I'll need to source some (probably) maple for another neck. So a small hiatus to follow...

Bugger!

What doesn’t kill us, etc.

Man that sux! Good that you can take it in stride... I was looking forward to the rest of the build :cool:

Thx. Yeah, it’s a real pain in the ****. However, as I said I’ve been lucky up to now. And no-one to blame other than user error.

To be continued…..

Ok. after a bit of a gap i'm back in the game. Bought a piece of maple for a new neck. It seemed easier, due to the lengths supplied, to get 1.8 metres, so it seemed silly not to get enough and make two necks. So that's what I did. I also bought some Sapele and some poplar which was floating around their bin ends in order to make another body to go with the extra neck. I mean why not!

I won't bore everyone with the whole neck making blog again. Cut it in half, routed the truss rod, shaped it from the template and glued the board on and shaped that too. Radiussed it..
https://i.imgur.com/u2YBijN.jpg

... and then we are back to where we were.

https://i.imgur.com/prMYd0A.jpg

The other neck is a little behind, waiting for the board to be glued on.

So, next to measure and cut the fret slots. Definitely getting better at this as it's getting easier and slightly quicker.

https://i.imgur.com/w8EvdSM.jpg

Then to carve the neck...

https://i.imgur.com/MjJTc2r.jpg

As before, using the Shinto rasp, take both ends down to the required depth (not quite) and then join up. Then divide the sides in half and keep carving the edges until it's round. I found the surform a lot easier and more effective than the Shinto rasp and gives a straighter result.

Ultimately we end up with this after a bit of sanding.

https://i.imgur.com/ktOm3mV.jpg

Next task is to do the fretboard markers and the side dots, then bang the frets in. Hoping I'll get a chance this weekend (waiting for the frets to arrive). If not then I'll press on with the other neck.

Nice work.

Weather is fine for my spraying now, but I imagine a bit warm for workshop duties!

Looking tidy!

That fetboard looks killer. I'm surprised you managed to get such a short length of maple. Shortest I can get from my supplier is 3m+. After gluing up 2 neckthrough basses there's enough left for a 3rd with some change and 2 body halves (or 2 bookmatched tops).

Quote:

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It seemed easier, due to the lengths supplied, to get 1.8 metres, so it seemed silly not to get enough and make two necks.

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I like the way you think!
I'm now just living vicariously through others' builds... so carry on!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rabbit

That fetboard looks killer. I'm surprised you managed to get such a short length of maple. Shortest I can get from my supplier is 3m+. After gluing up 2 neckthrough basses there's enough left for a 3rd with some change and 2 body halves (or 2 bookmatched tops).

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They seem to do it in 900mm lengths and it was cheaper to get 1.8 metres. It's the UK so I guess hardwood is not in such great supply.

The fretboard is panga panga. I think it looks quite nice and is not too expensive. I've just glued a maple fretboard to the other neck so I'll see how that turns out. I'm always a little puzzled of what to finish a maple fretboard in. I like them glossy but that means spraying it I guess.

Spent a very pleasant (and rather warm) day in and out of the workshop with some sunbathing today. Yes it's the UK!!!

Measured and drilled and glued in the fretboard markers. Then banged in the frets, trimmed the edges, filed them, drizzled some superglue down the frets and filled the fretholes.

https://i.imgur.com/0bURwTx.jpg

Fretboard levelling tomorrow which everyone is familiar with, along with some shaping of the nut end, cutting the nut slot and installing it, opening the truss rod access hole etc. Then other than tuner holes (to be delivered), I'm pretty much there for this neck.

Turning my attention back to the body. I've bought a Tone Rider P bass pickup. I've no idea what they are like, this was purely on someone else's recommendation. However it wasn't expensive, so it's not an issue to swap it out for a Seymour Duncan 1/4 pounder if it's crap. But I need to make a template to rout out the slot, so that's the next task.

Looking good, Stu! I can see a glimpse of the body there, too ...

Peter

+ 1 for great looking fretboard, and neck.

Yet another long gap, but had some time to make some progress on this now.

Firstly, I decided to press ahead with the second neck, just to get it to a similar stage to the first. Same procedures really. Glue the fretboard on...

https://i.imgur.com/k3VgpQ7.jpg

Trim it, radius it, measure and cut slots...

https://i.imgur.com/bLfCFPQ.jpg

... Bang the frets in

https://i.imgur.com/WYLI8qy.jpg

... snip the ends, file, shape the neck etc

https://i.imgur.com/U4dKRD7.jpg

I haven't levelled the frets. I plan to apply lacquer to the neck and fretboard at some point, so I've read it's better to do this after the lacquer has been applied. The end will need cutting off (it was v.useful for clamping purposes, I shall do that again in the future).

So I now have pretty much two necks ready.

Nice work.

You'll need to scrape the lacquer off the frets and sand the lacquer back anyway, so you'll certainly need to repolish the frets after doing that, so you might as well wait to do the fret levelling and just go through the polishing process once.

I'm not even attempting to do anything guitar-wise at the moment, it's just too hot. Over 36°C on my patio in the shade yesterday (a couple of degrees warmer than true shade temperature due to it being south-west facing and the house and slabs absorbing heat and warming the air up more locally). Should get much better tomorrow though, back to mid-20s and having now having a chance to acclimatise, should be pleasant to work in.

Turning attention back to the actual guitar now. Got the tuners and bridge delivered so I drilled the holes for the tuners.

https://i.imgur.com/5O3U09Z.jpg

Now time to cut the neck pocket. I don't have a template as it's a non standard neck, so it's a case of clamping the neck in position and then using the superglue/masking tape method, butt up some straight edges and a shaped infill at the heel. Two layers of masking tape round the edge makes it a reasonably tight fit.

https://i.imgur.com/ZKqv8rO.jpg

Drilled out with a Forstner bit and then routed the rest and seemed to go ok as I ended up with a .... reasonably tight fit!

Now time to do the pickup hole. The P bass pickup is an awkward shape. Fortunately the Pitbull P bass I did two years ago has a pickguard so I took that off and used that to make a template. That made it much easier!

https://i.imgur.com/UzGGwlu.jpg

Routers don't square off (obviously) so a little chiselling was required and I ended up with this.

https://i.imgur.com/nNyYzQ9.png

Little bit of sanding to straighten it all up and we end up with a bass!!

https://i.imgur.com/W3qVfo6.jpg

I couldn't use the rear cavity template I made last time as it encroaches on the laminate and that would have been really awkward to make a cover. So I had to make two new ones (one for the outer cover and the other for the inner cavity).

https://i.imgur.com/FbZuuTC.jpg

And that's pretty much where we are. There was a little bit to trim off the neck which I've done and the holes for the pickup and ground wires that I've done also. Some filling of cracks here and there, tidying up the neck pocket and some general other tidying up. Then there is a bucket of sanding to do (it's a little warm for that at the moment), drill the bridge holes then it's grain filler time and finishing.

I will admit that I haven't decided how to finish it. I don't have spraying equipment (yet), so that means it's a rattle can of lacquer type substance or similar. I don't know how good a finish you can get with them?

Or wipe on poly which I've done both times before. Would be nice to try a different technique though...

Or something like Tru oil, which again I have no experience of. I want to keep the natural wood colour and I don't really want to dye or tint it other than what the finish does to it. I'm just doing some searches on the forum for Tru oil finishes and sizing them up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Nice work.

You'll need to scrape the lacquer off the frets and sand the lacquer back anyway, so you'll certainly need to repolish the frets after doing that, so you might as well wait to do the fret levelling and just go through the polishing process once.

I'm not even attempting to do anything guitar-wise at the moment, it's just too hot. Over 36°C on my patio in the shade yesterday (a couple of degrees warmer than true shade temperature due to it being south-west facing and the house and slabs absorbing heat and warming the air up more locally). Should get much better tomorrow though, back to mid-20s and having now having a chance to acclimatise, should be pleasant to work in.

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Yes I was going to do some stuff today, but it is just too warm. Similar sort of temperatures to you (I'm Epsom which isn''t miles away from you) so it's a case of .... errr.... chilling! (Or whatever the appropriate phrase is!)

Patio temperature has just hit 40°C in the shade, so I've got myself a large G&T and am relaxing.

Rattle can lacquer can be fine. Nitro paint can get a bit spluttery at times, and you get what you get in terms of how much it's thinned down and so how well you can get a nice level layer of paint. The thicker it is, the more if follows the surface contours. Nitro lacquer tends to be thinner, and I've often used tins of it when I couldn't be bothered to get the spray gun out for just a small bit like a headstock.

But if you go that route, I'd suggest using Shellac as a sealer/filler first. Rothco and Frost now do it in a spray can, and that worked well on my Tele body I'm working on. Easy to sand and I got a nice flat surface to spray onto (starting out on some mahogany-type wood that I didn't grain fill).

Have you checked that the bridge string spacing works with the neck? It's hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like the strings may run over the edges of the neck (or very very close to). Though that could all be an optical illusion caused by the body stripes.

I managed to get a 1/8" router bit with a profile following bearing (limited use bit due to wear and no bearings fitted to the follower ring - but I won't use it very often) which I used to rout out the pocket corners for my soapbar bass pickups on the Harley Benton bass I built. Not square, but as close to it as you are ever going to need and looks very neat. I'd give you a link, but I can't find it again!

If you do find it then do let me know, I'd be interested.

I did briefly when I was measuring the nut spacing, but now you've mentioned it I'm going to set it up and check!

Obviously other bridges are available. I liked the Hipshot Kickass 4 bridge I put on the Harley Benton kit due to its adjustable saddle spacing. Just £60 from https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_gu...e_bridges.html

The Schaller 3D bridge is another nice one with adjustable saddle spacing.

And if the strings do need to come in a bit and then look funny on the pickup polepiece spacing, you could always get some solid black covers to fit on them so you can't see the pole pieces. Sonically, they should be fine.

Peaked at this in the shade on our patio. This is not normal UK weather!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/7QttfM.jpg

Much hotter and I'd need a wider range thermometer!

Unfortunately I'm the wrong person for that as I love it! I've been lazing on a lounger in the sun for a lot of the day!

Anyway your last post reminded me why I do build diaries, so much appreciated!!! - I'd given no thought to the string spacing whatsoever. I went on the fact that I'd used the same neck template as last time, the same nut width and the same bridge therefore all should be fine. As it turns out that isn't quite correct though I think I'm ok.

The nut width is the same as my last one. The width at the 20th fret (the last one was 24 frets) is exactly 60mm with 50mm string width - again the last one was 50mm string width but 62mm wide neck. The last one is fine to play and I don't think the 2mm will make too much difference, there is still a reasonable gap either side. The bridge is 57mm string width on both. I got my Jazz out and the nut is slightly slimmer (38/39) but the other measurements are the same. I think I'm ok to be honest. I have the option of cutting the nut slots just slightly closer together though I'd have to be careful as i want the gap between the edge and the string to be uniform all the way down.

I set it up using (fat) string and it seemed ok. If it's not good then I'll have to swap the bridge out for a smaller one in terms of string spacing.


This is definitely something to consider in the planning and in hindsight I need to have the all the bits available during the design phase.

Building guitars is learning right? Presumably there is no point at which you say I know everything!!!! Maybe one day I might be able to help others - at the moment, not so much!!

Nice work Stu!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Peaked at this in the shade on our patio. This is not normal UK weather!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/7QttfM.jpg

Much hotter and I'd need a wider range thermometer!

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Gettin' a bit warm there, Simon. Might have to think about turnin' the fan on if was over 'ere! ;)

Peter

Or even taking a jumper off.

Simon have you got any recommendations for rattle can lacquer? I looked on Amazon but it’s not easy to know what’s good and what isn’t. U.K. obviously.

All the suppliers I've use are (or were) based around Manchester, so they probably all have a common source.

The original supplier was Manchester Guitar Tech https://manchesterguitartech.co.uk/

Then Rothko and Frost joined in https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/guita...pray-paint-c34
as did Northwest Guitars https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/n...lose-aerosols/ and also ToneTech Luthiers https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.u...-lacquers.html

I can't say I've noticed any difference in the products, and I generally buy by stock availability and whether they have other things I also need to ensure free shipping.

So at this stage, after a rather excessive work schedule then a couple of weeks away, I'm back to put the finish on. Did all the required sanding and drilled the holes for volume/tone.

I decided to go for an oil type finish in the end - I bought some Crimson guitars Penetrating oil and some High build finishing oil. I'll go for a rattle can lacquer on the next one.

I presume they are similar (ish) in content to a Truoil/Danish Oil type finish, and along the lines of a blend of BLO, varnish and thinners though Crimson are rather reticent about supplying the ingredients and proportions. I'm guessing the High Build stuff has a slightly higher proportion of varnish as it's giving a glossier type finish and it's slightly thicker in consistency. Anyway it seems pretty straightforward to apply and seems to go on fairly easily.

A bit of advice. After I've done sufficient coats which I'm getting near to, I'll leave it to cure off for a couple of weeks. Then what is the process for finishing off? Is it the same process that I do with wipe on varnish; i.e. level sand then polish? Level sanding doesn't seem as necessary with an oil finish from looking at it, though I'm far from an expert using oil. I've seen others use some 0000 wire wool (horrible stuff - seems to go everywhere) and then some wax.

If you want a gloss finish, then you will have to sand back and then go up through the grits and polish. If you want a more satin look, then you could leave it as-is if it looks smooth enough.

Putting wax on a finish is not something I'd do myself as I just can't see the point. But it's a personal thing.

I'd suggest using the three finest Scotch-Brite pads instead of wire-wool. The maroon, grey and white ones. 0, 00 and 0000 wire-wool equivalents.

I did wonder about the wax - thought it might attract dust and dirt and stuff.

Thanks Simon. I'll see what it looks like when I've done three more coats, which is what I plan to do.

I applied the first four or five coats using a fine grit paper, but I'm just wiping it on as normal now.

I'll go for the sanding option - mainly because I've got a reasonable amount of paper up to around 2500.