Have a pick guard and installing wilkinson M series Pickups

I know the picture is distorted, however the setup is HSH, the old neck HB is still in the guard as I haven't installed the new ones completely into the guard. The middle is new and Wired correctly, however the neck and Bridge I am not sure about as the small yellow wires are top=Neck Bottom=Bridge. What I want to make sure of is that it's wired right and when I go to select them I'll get the full of each bucker and not a single. These are a matching set of Wilkinson pickups which I bought to go together from Amazon. I know I could have kept the original ones, however I figured it would be better to just replace everything and match them to be sure of no imbalance. I'd appreciate any and all advice and if I should move the wires to the same spots as the other two wires for each HB respectively. the Neck is the yellow/white large wire, the bridge is the red one with Red and white. I don't want to blow up the pickups the first time I put the guitar I am installing the guard into on an amp. This is also an Ibanez setup, so I don't just want to screw up the harness.

Really need a broader, clearer photo to give you proper advice.
Also, you can't really "blow up" pickups.

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Really need a broader, clearer photo to give you proper advice.
Also, you can't really "blow up" pickups.

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Thanks for the info, will get back to you with a better picture it's the one I had available and it was too big.

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Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe

Thanks for the info, will get back to you with a better picture it's the one I had available and it was too big.

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The max size allowed is 1500 x 1500 pixels is hosting directly on the forum. I find if you resize a clear well focused pic to 1000 (on one side) we can expand to see a lot of detail.

Alternatively you can host offsite, eg: Imgur.

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Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe

Thanks for the info, will get back to you with a better picture it's the one I had available and it was too big.

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Originally Posted by McCreed

The max size allowed is 1500 x 1500 pixels is hosting directly on the forum. I find if you resize a clear well focused pic to 1000 (on one side) we can expand to see a lot of detail.

Alternatively you can host offsite, eg: Imgur.

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These are 1500, yet very clear, If you'd like some different shots let me know and I'll break out my D60 instead of using my Galaxy S10+ Camera.

The phone camera will be fine. I'm still using an iPhone 6!
Just take a bird's eye shot so we can see the signal path and what wires are going where.


Regardless of the pics, if you want the standard Ibanez 5-way HSH wiring follow this diagram:
This will give you full HB in 1 and 5, and split HB + SC in 2 & 4.

Attachment 42857
You will need to check the Wilkinson wire colour code to determine your positive and ground wires on the HB's, but the already joined red & white wires are the "coil finish" wires that go to the switch as per the diagram.


As far as I can tell in your pic, you have an 8-lug import switch, so use this drawing below to cross-reference the diagram switch and your 8-lug.

Attachment 42858

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Originally Posted by McCreed

The phone camera will be fine. I'm still using an iPhone 6!
Just take a bird's eye shot so we can see the signal path and what wires are going where.


Regardless of the pics, if you want the standard Ibanez 5-way HSH wiring follow this diagram:
This will give you full HB in 1 and 5, and split HB + SC in 2 & 4.

Attachment 42857
You will need to check the Wilkinson wire colour code to determine your positive and ground wires on the HB's, but the already joined red & white wires are the "coil finish" wires that go to the switch as per the diagram.


As far as I can tell in your pic, you have an 8-lug import switch, so use this drawing below to cross-reference the diagram switch and your 8-lug.

Attachment 42858

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Would you recommend I order a different switch and Just wire things exactly per the diagram? If I order a new switch I was thinking about the Kaish 5 way switch like is listed on Amazon or if there's another brand you would recommend that I can search for. I simply used part of the original wire because it would have been a bit more complicated to redo the joint on the pot, they're all at the same point for the grounds.

You certainly can upgrade/change the switch if you want, but I have no experience with the Kaish ones so can't comment. I have used some hardware of some kind from them, but I don't remember what it was (a bridge maybe???) and I don't recall being disappointed (fwtw). CRL and Oak Grigsby are high quality USA-made ones but will cost more than MIC units.

I found this diagram for an Ibanez using an 8-lug import switch that gives their standard auto-split selections:
Attachment 42861

I modified the drawing to remove the wire colours as they vary across different brands to avoid confusion. However it will be conceptually the same using positive, ground and series connections as shown. You can print out and write in your own colour codes for clarity if it helps.

One note, the middle single coil leads may or may not need to flipped around depending on the phase of the humbucker coils it's paired with.

Hope this helps!

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Originally Posted by McCreed

You certainly can upgrade/change the switch if you want, but I have no experience with the Kaish ones so can't comment. I have used some hardware of some kind from them, but I don't remember what it was (a bridge maybe???) and I don't recall being disappointed (fwtw). CRL and Oak Grigsby are high quality USA-made ones but will cost more than MIC units.

I found this diagram for an Ibanez using an 8-lug import switch that gives their standard auto-split selections:
Attachment 42861

I modified the drawing to remove the wire colours as they vary across different brands to avoid confusion. However it will be conceptually the same using positive, ground and series connections as shown. You can print out and write in your own colour codes for clarity if it helps.

One note, the middle single coil leads may or may not need to flipped around depending on the phase of the humbucker coils it's paired with.

Hope this helps!

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This is straight forward, however I'm a bit confused as to what pin is what. my soldiered pair on the Wilkinsons are white and red for both neck and bridge. I have a yellow for the South hot, and north Hot neck and bridge respectively. Middle hot is Red, ground is typical black. where would those two yellows be on the switch position? Would it be okay to put them both to one, or would it give me too gritty of a sound?

Ok, let me know if this is what your pickup wires look like:
Attachment 42862

If this is correct, do this:
(and refer to my earlier "Fender to Import" drawing. Lug numbers go from 1-8, Left to Right with metal casing toward YOU)

Bridge Pickup:
Red & White to Lug #8
Yellow to Lug#3
Black & Bare to Ground

Middle SC*:
Red wire to Lug #2
Black to Ground

*See my note in post #8

Neck Pickup:
Red & White to Lug #6
Yellow to Lug #1
Black & Bare to Ground

Switch Lug #7 wire to Ground

Switch Lug #4 wire to Volume Pot as shown.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Ok, let me know if this is what your pickup wires look like:
Attachment 42862

If this is correct, do this:
(and refer to my earlier "Fender to Import" drawing. Lug numbers go from 1-8, Left to Right with metal casing toward YOU)

Bridge Pickup:
Red & White to Lug #8
Yellow to Lug#3
Black & Bare to Ground

Middle SC*:
Red wire to Lug #2
Black to Ground

*See my note in post #8

Neck Pickup:
Red & White to Lug #6
Yellow to Lug #1
Black & Bare to Ground

Switch Lug #7 wire to Ground

Switch Lug #4 wire to Volume Pot as shown.

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This is perfect, thank you very much, waiting on the helping hands and multi meter plus upgraded Leads. What in general should I be looking at for proper resistances?

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What in general should I be looking at for proper resistances?

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In this scenario, I think you'll find that the multimeter will mostly be handy for checking continuity between components or shielding (if you've done any). Essentially following the signal and ground paths and making sure there are no shorts.

As for resistance, you can test your pots just to see where they're operating, but that's more for curiosity than anything else (IMO). Pots (especially budget ones) can have a tolerance of ±20%, eg: a 500k pot can measure anywhere between 400k - 600k ohms.
It sounds like a lot but it's generally imperceptible to what we can hear, or how it genuinely effects the tone.
You can also test your pickups DC Resistance, but again, mostly curiosity unless something is seriously wrong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

In this scenario, I think you'll find that the multimeter will mostly be handy for checking continuity between components or shielding (if you've done any). Essentially following the signal and ground paths and making sure there are no shorts.

As for resistance, you can test your pots just to see where they're operating, but that's more for curiosity than anything else (IMO). Pots (especially budget ones) can have a tolerance of ±20%, eg: a 500k pot can measure anywhere between 400k - 600k ohms.
It sounds like a lot but it's generally imperceptible to what we can hear, or how it genuinely effects the tone.
You can also test your pickups DC Resistance, but again, mostly curiosity unless something is seriously wrong.

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Okay, so here we have a picture of the pick guard with the entire setup facing left. Something tells me this switch may have been wired backwards as to what I need for the neck to middle to bridge configuration goes and I might have to fix this tomorrow/later today when I get back from where I need to be at 1400 pacific. If this is so then I'll get it fixed then, I might order a switch to replace this one as this one seems to be of poor quality. on the metal side it has CF inside a circle according to amazon it might be some brand called DZS, if that means anything to you I'd appreciate the knowledge. Should I attempt a trace to see what position is what if possible? I also noticed the old neck says FC-50 and the bridge says something different.

Some quick observations:

First, I'd take out the kit neck pickup and put the Wilkinson in there. There's no need for it if your replacing it and it clutters things up visually.

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Something tells me this switch may have been wired backwards as to what I need for the neck to middle to bridge configuration goes...

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It's not really backwards, as much as it is just incorrect. See my comments below.

IMO, there is no need to replace the switch unless it is faulty. Installing a Fender-style switch may be problematic with the depth of the control cavity and would unnecessarily complicate things for you at this stage of your build experience.

NECK PICKUP:
The red & white wires from the neck p/u are suppose to go to Lug #6. They appear to go to Lug #3.

The yellow lead (HOT) from the neck p/u is supposed to go to Lug #1. It appears to go to Lug#4.

I can't tell where you're grounds for the neck p/u are going in the pic.

MIDDLE PICKUP:
The red lead (HOT) from the middle p/u looks to be correctly soldered to Lug #2.


BRIDGE PICKUP:
Red & white wires from the bridge p/u are supposed to go to Lug #8. There is currently no wire soldered to Lug #8 and I can't see where the red & white wires are going at all.

The yellow lead (HOT) from the bridge p/u is supposed to go to Lug #3. It appears to go to Lug#6.

Again, I can't see where the grounds for the bridge p/u are going.


SWITCH to VOLUME/TONE CIRCUIT:
You currently have soldered a wire from Lug #1 to the volume pot. That wire should be come from Lug #4.

There should be a wire going to ground soldered from Lug #7. You currently have nothing soldered to Lug #7.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Some quick observations:

First, I'd take out the kit neck pickup and put the Wilkinson in there. There's no need for it if your replacing it and it clutters things up visually.



It's not really backwards, as much as it is just incorrect. See my comments below.

IMO, there is no need to replace the switch unless it is faulty. Installing a Fender-style switch may be problematic with the depth of the control cavity and would unnecessarily complicate things for you at this stage of your build experience.

NECK PICKUP:
The red & white wires from the neck p/u are suppose to go to Lug #6. They appear to go to Lug #3.

The yellow lead (HOT) from the neck p/u is supposed to go to Lug #1. It appears to go to Lug#4.

I can't tell where you're grounds for the neck p/u are going in the pic.

MIDDLE PICKUP:
The red lead (HOT) from the middle p/u looks to be correctly soldered to Lug #2.


BRIDGE PICKUP:
Red & white wires from the bridge p/u are supposed to go to Lug #8. There is currently no wire soldered to Lug #8 and I can't see where the red & white wires are going at all.

The yellow lead (HOT) from the bridge p/u is supposed to go to Lug #3. It appears to go to Lug#6.

Again, I can't see where the grounds for the bridge p/u are going.


SWITCH to VOLUME/TONE CIRCUIT:
You currently have soldered a wire from Lug #1 to the volume pot. That wire should be come from Lug #4.

There should be a wire going to ground soldered from Lug #7. You currently have nothing soldered to Lug #7.

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The red white pair that's simplified to a red wire with white and shielded with the ground being the shield and soldiered to the pot in a cluster. The grounds aren't obvious on the two Jumpers that connect the buckers to the lugs. This is how it was setup originally, I haven't touched the pots. I have my bridge and Neck swapped. I went ahead and ordered a switch to upgrade, TBH I don't really like the switch the way it's been setup, If I play with the lugs I'm afraid I'll bust them, I'll have the kaish within the next 2-3 hours. I can then wire things EXACTLY as they need to be and there will be no doubts as to what is really going where. I'll still keep my jumper setup as if I don't for now, I don't have extra wire to extend the yellow wires or the grounds from the HB's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe

The red white pair that's simplified to a red wire with white and shielded with the ground being the shield and soldiered to the pot in a cluster. The grounds aren't obvious on the two Jumpers that connect the buckers to the lugs. This is how it was setup originally, I haven't touched the pots. I have my bridge and Neck swapped. I went ahead and ordered a switch to upgrade, TBH I don't really like the switch the way it's been setup, If I play with the lugs I'm afraid I'll bust them, I'll have the kaish within the next 2-3 hours. I can then wire things EXACTLY as they need to be and there will be no doubts as to what is really going where. I'll still keep my jumper setup as if I don't for now, I don't have extra wire to extend the yellow wires or the grounds from the HB's.

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Okay, so, the Pick guard is all wired up, just need to buy some washers to put on top of the nuts that go under the pots and replace a nut.

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Okay, so, the Pick guard is all wired up, just need to buy some washers to put on top of the nuts that go under the pots and replace a nut.

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Have you sound tested the the pickups? Are they working and splitting correctly?

If you don't know this already, you can connect just the pickups via a lead from the output jack or with test leads from the output jack hot & ground, to a amp input (make sure the amp volume is OFF to start with).
You can turn the volume up gradually and tap the pole pieces of the pickups with a steel object (commonly a screwdriver). You will only hear a clicking sound, but it will tell you if the pickups are passing a signal, if the switch configuration is correct and if the volume & tone pots are working correctly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Have you sound tested the the pickups? Are they working and splitting correctly?

If you don't know this already, you can connect just the pickups via a lead from the output jack or with test leads from the output jack hot & ground, to a amp input (make sure the amp volume is OFF to start with).
You can turn the volume up gradually and tap the pole pieces of the pickups with a steel object (commonly a screwdriver). You will only hear a clicking sound, but it will tell you if the pickups are passing a signal, if the switch configuration is correct and if the volume & tone pots are working correctly.

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I'll have that done when I take it in to have the Bridge and strings setup for me initially. I don't have all the tools to properly take care of initial setup of my Floyd. I will get it installed, and then have a more experienced luthier finish it up for me. Sadly I lost a very close family friend whom was my influence, mentor and inspiration into doing this kind of thing to cancer, he would have done it for me and showed me how in person or had me do it under his watchful eye.

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Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe

I'll have that done when I take it in to have the Bridge and strings setup for me initially. I don't have all the tools to properly take care of initial setup of my Floyd. I will get it installed, and then have a more experienced luthier finish it up for me. Sadly I lost a very close family friend whom was my influence, mentor and inspiration into doing this kind of thing to cancer, he would have done it for me and showed me how in person or had me do it under his watchful eye.

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I found an amp on CL for 20.00 in great condition it's a 33 watt amp, not the exact type I'd like with USB, however it will do for testing and practice.

Got the Amp, Pick guard works perfectly.

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Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe

Got the Amp, Pick guard works perfectly.

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Great result!

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Great result!

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I did go back through and flow extra soldier onto the lugs and made it look professional with the switch. I also reflowed a couple points and added a bit of the better soldier to a few other points on the harness itself. I also redid a couple of the splice points with the new solder station I bought. Got a bit busy concentrating on work, Enjoying a week off and will take some time to relax and start finishing up getting settled into my new place, get this work area setup a bit better and tidied up. I'll post updated pictures and get some nice shots with my D60 to upload.