Wiring this three way switch

Hi my fellow builders,
I'm reaching the end of my first build and it has been an absolute pleasure this far. I'm really enjoying the build and I guess this isn't going to be the last one.
I'm currently trying to get this Telecaster electric. I notices that the three way switch, that was included in the package is different from the ones I see in tutorials. I'm not sure how to wire it. The way it is wired now produces only a lot of buzz, no sound. Anyone got experience woth this type of switch and how to wire it correctly?
Many thanks in advance! As the picture shows I had a (rather terrible) go at a different option.Attachment 42355Attachment 42355

I'm not familiar with the kit 3-way Tele switches at all, but there are normally more tags along the top than that from what I've seen. Have any come off during your soldering attempts?

That 'import' style of 3-way switch is often configured like this, though sometimes the switch PCB boards can do all the linking work for you.

Attachment 42356

Have you got a multimeter so you can check what the switch connections do?

Make sure that there is is a good solder connection from the volume pot ground tab (blue circle) to the back of the volume pot. And cut off the excess length of the tone capacitor (yellow circle) as it looks like it could be touching the control plate, making the tone control act like a crude volume pot rather than a tone control.

Attachment 42357

Thanks a lot Simon. The switch came with 3 tabs, which lead me to believe that the tabs on either side would take the hot-wire from both pickups. I can't seem to find the same switch anywhere online. And boy, are there many different!

If it came with just those three tabs, then I'd expect the two end tabs to be the two pickup hot wires, and the central tab the output tab.

The copper shielding will be grounded, and the two pickup hot-wires have some exposed lengths which are very likely to touch the shielding when the plate is on, so I'd try to get the wire insulation to run right up to the tabs, and to put some insulation tape on the copper to prevent any signal shorts with the cover plate on.

Some of the holes at the top of the switch without tabs have solder on them. It looks like some of that solder may be touching the metal switch cover. If those holes are connected to the signal within the switch, (it may be a common PCB for 3- and 5-way switches) then that may also ground out the signal. Again, it may need checking with a multimeter just to make sure if there are any possible connections there.

And I'd double check that the output jack is connected the right way around. If the wires are crossed, you'll get sound but it will be very noisy.

This looks to be the switch and it's on a Chinese web site, which makes sense.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32463882707.html

No real details about it, but from the photos, it looks very easy for the signal paths on the PCB to short out on the cover.

Yep, that's the one. I think I'll order a better replacement. Thanks a million Simon.

Removed - wrong switch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

If you want to keep the switch for the meantime (until you get a new one?) here's how it should be connected:

Attachment 42360

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No it isn't, Mick. It's a very different switch to that!

If you get another 'import' style switch they should be a similar depth to the current one. But most should wire in a way similar to the diagram McCreed has posted.

If you want to go for a 'wafer' switch, the sort Fender use on their USA models, either an Oak Grigsby or CRL switch, the wiring is a bit more involved (though there are plenty of wiring diagrams for them) and they are a bit deeper, so may not fit in the kit control cavity without taking a couple of mm from the bottom of the pocket. The screws will be imperial types, not metric and the top-hat knob for them has a different shaft opening as the switch shaft is wider (the kit knob would be very loose on it and fall off). The knob is normally a separate item and doesn't come with the switch.

Probably best to get another 'import' switch. If you ever decide to upgrade the kit pickups, then you might as well swap to a complete new wiring harness (switch, pots, jack and wiring).

Oops! You're right Simon!
I should have looked closer before I posted!

But would that kit switch be configured the same as an 8-lug import switch like in your diagram? :confused:

I've never seen that type of switch before...

I'm watching this with great interest as I'll be coming up to the same issue - my particular cover panel and 3-way switch aren't covered in the PBG tutorials and I've had to scour the interwebs (without much luck) for information on wiring this type of "import" switch. And I'm going to have the added fun of doing the tone riders as well.

I'm inclined to get a proper telecaster three way switch, given that I can get a genuine Fender one from a reputable dealer for just under AUD$30.

Quote:

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I'm inclined to get a proper telecaster three way switch, given that I can get a genuine Fender one from a reputable dealer for just under AUD$30.

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Johnny, just double check the depth of your control cavity route and be sure you'll have enough clearance for a CRL-type switch.
Especially if you plan on shielding the cavities.

I don't recall the cavity depth on the PBG TL's nor whether I had to route mine deeper. My point is some non-fender bodies are a bit shallower than genuine and solder lugs on the switch can make contact with the cavity floor and cause a short (if shielded).
IIRC, you need a minimum of 35mm, but check that against the switch you buying.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

But would that kit switch be configured the same as an 8-lug import switch like in your diagram? :confused:

I've never seen that type of switch before...

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Looking at the Aliexpress pictures, you can see it’s a modified version of a standard 7/8-lug switch. It’s still split into two ‘sides’ to mimic a wafer switch, each with its own ‘common’ connection to three sets of contacts for ‘neck’, ‘both’ and ‘bridge’ positions, but as on a 7-lug switch, the two commons are internally connected to a single common ‘common’, rather than the two commons having to be externally connected together.

In the picture/diagram you deleted, the links for connecting the ‘neck’ to ‘both’ contacts on one side of the PCB were done externally when wiring the switch. The same for the other half of the switch PCB, where the ‘bridge’ and ‘both’ contacts were joined externally.

On the 3-lug switch, the connection between the ‘neck’ and ‘both’ contacts on one side, and ‘both’ and ‘bridge’ contacts on the other side of the switch are done on the PCB, so you only need to make one solder connection per pickup and don’t have to worry about making the link.

There are two ways to wire a standard 7 lug (or 8-lug) switch. If we number the terminals on a 7-lug as

1 2 3 4(C) 5 6 7

where 4 is the common (C) output connection, then you can wire it:

a} 1-2 3 4(C) 5 6-7

or

b) 1 2-3 4(C) 5-6 7

where the ‘-‘ is the link. For a) you’d wire the neck pickup to the side of the switch nearest the bridge, and the bridge pickup to the side of the switch nearest the neck. For b) you’d wire the neck pickup to the side nearest the neck and the bridge pickup to the side nearest the bridge.

The 3-lug switch is wired as type a) with the linking all internal, making it much simpler to wire up. It makes it a less flexible switch, but for a straightforward 3-way switch, it’s fine and no different to a 3-way box toggle switch in concept.

Your deleted pic showed a type b) wiring arrangement.

For completeness, on an 8-lug switch

1 2 3 4(C1) 5(C2) 6 7 8

Where the common connection for each side of the switch, C1 and C2, is separate, you’d wire and link it as either

a) 1-2 3 4(C1)-5(C2) 6 7-8

or

b) 1 2-3 4(C1)-5(C2) 6-7 8

So the 3-lug switch is both similar, and at the same time quite different, to a 7-lug or 8-lug switch.

A logical variation on a theme and for a 3-way Tele switch, a 3-lug makes perfect sense. They’ve simply modified a 7-lug PCB by drawing the links on the board, though it would have been less confusing to have simply laid out the PCB so there were only 3 holes and three lugs. But I suppose it allows a common pre-etching board shape to be used for 3-and 7- lug switches and so saves money and supply complexity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Johnny, just double check the depth of your control cavity route and be sure you'll have enough clearance for a CRL-type switch.
Especially if you plan on shielding the cavities.

I don't recall the cavity depth on the PBG TL's nor whether I had to route mine deeper. My point is some non-fender bodies are a bit shallower than genuine and solder lugs on the switch can make contact with the cavity floor and cause a short (if shielded).
IIRC, you need a minimum of 35mm, but check that against the switch you buying.

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Good pick up (pardon the pun) - I didn't think of that. Cheers, McCreed.

I got it running. The tabs on either side are indeed for the hot wires. I got a loose cable at the jackplate. Soldered it back and it's very much alive now. Thanks a million. Cheers.

Always good news!

Thanks for the explanation on the 3-lug import switch Simon. Makes sense now.

It confused me until I could see the Aliexpress pictures and could work out what was going on.