Question for the brains department.
I have a AST-1QB Kit amd Dingo Tone stain not sure of the name,its a red colour.
How to i get the grain to pop under the colour.
Cheers
Bundy
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Question for the brains department.
I have a AST-1QB Kit amd Dingo Tone stain not sure of the name,its a red colour.
How to i get the grain to pop under the colour.
Cheers
Bundy
Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
Maybe dozymuppet will chime in here...
He did a "Q" top that I'm still envious of!
CLICK HERE
Oh hey that's me...
I used U-Beaut water-based dyes. I did an initial diluted coat of the (green) black, and carefully sanded that back once dry. So rather than grain filler, use dye.
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Hey Dozymoppet, just to get it right from looking at your buildpage: did you stain black, lightly sanded back, then green, lightly sanded back, then final colour?Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
Thanks!
Not to step on dozy's toes here, but U-beaut calls their black timber dye "green black" (huh???) Yeah, I know...Quote:
Originally Posted by RocknRolf
I can't say what the technical reason is, but I know from using it that there is a slight green tinge to it when wet, but dries black.
Yep, what he said.
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Soooo single layer application, sand back, then final colour? Haha
Simple enough, even for me.
If you're in the US: http://www.ubeaut.com.au/distribs.htm#USA
And if you're in Canukistan: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools
Seems pretty available around the EU and UK as well.
Hey Dozymoppet,
Did you wet down the top first as per on the website or straight into the dye.
Bundy
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Straight on with the dye. It's water based, so it will probably make the grain raise a bit, which you will then lightly sand back.
Cheers dude
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'Lightly' being the operative word. The veneer isn't very thick, typically 0.5mm-0.6mm. You can't sand back too far before you start to sand through to the glue layer, which won't take the stain well. So sand very gently with minimal pressure and at least P240 grit.
So bear that in mind when applying the dark stain. You don't want it too strong/wet or it will soak right through all the veneer and you'll never sand through to unstained wood.
The top on this body is thicker than standard veneer.
I will take a pic tommorow and show you all
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I thought that on a kit I once had, but it just looked like it and the veneer was the standard thickness upon closer inspection. I doubt very much that it is anything but standard thickness, but would be delighted for you if it was thicker.
I agree with Simon. I can be deceiving.
Have a closer look in the side of the pickup cavities and wet it with some metho. The metho should make it easier to see the delineation between the veneer and body wood.
If it has a carved top, they can "appear" to have a "cap". That is how my PRS1-TS looked but it was just a sandwich of basswood with the veneer fixed to the carved top.
Ok
On having a closer look in the control cavity, it seems to be a veneer only..[emoji17]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...699fb1c6a5.jpg
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Yes, that's what my Tiger Stripe Maple top looked like.
There's a definite layer of timber between the veneer and main body piece (alder in your case).
However, I will say that you don't need to be overly afraid of sanding the veneer, just be sensible. Don't go at it with a power tool and 80 grit paper!
IMO hand-sanding with 240, you'd almost have to try to burn through the veneer. As it's maple, it doesn't require any grain filling and shouldn't need that much sanding full stop.
Even with doing a black coat first, if you follow Simon's advice about not saturating the veneer, you should be fine.
Looking forward to seeing your progress!