Doing something a bit metal with this spalted marri top. Maybe.
https://i.imgur.com/AFCpPdq.jpg
Rough cut, with some meranti from the green shed.
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Doing something a bit metal with this spalted marri top. Maybe.
https://i.imgur.com/AFCpPdq.jpg
Rough cut, with some meranti from the green shed.
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Well, you have to do something while you're waiting for the finish to dry on the other one...
Makes perfect sense to me.
I'm loving that top. Wonder if I can get similar in the UK for my next one? And no, you can't have too many projects!!
Well, I imagine marri would be a bit tricky to come by, but I'm sure there would be a spalted something or other around.
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You do seem to have a large selection of different hardwoods over there - no idea how cheap they are mind, but at least they seem to be readily available.
If we want some hardwood then we have to go to a specialist timber supplier - which are few and far between.
Just out of interest, how many projects do you have going? My better half wants to know how many is too many?
It is the the same number as the optimum number of guitars, N+1, N being the number of projects you currently have going. you just have to make sure that you keep everything separate and organised.
Current FrankenLab tally: 4 kits, 1 neck, 5 scratch bodies, 1 tool wall (Framing, cladding and French cleat system), 1 Timber rack, and a downstairs renovation.
So far the timber rack is complete, framing is underway, pending arrival of pickups. A body glue up has happened, some paint is applied, though getting a sunburst around windows is quite an art. Renovation render has gone up but unfortunately the scale length and fretwork on the tiling seems to intonate out. I feel one or two of the ceramic tiles seem to sound flat.
I have tried adjusting the truss rod, but that just put the door jamb out of square. Not sure where to go to from here, may have to convert it to a home office.
Yep, I was going to say that N+1 is the optimal number. :)
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Lunchtime routing:
https://i.imgur.com/K6WfgcQ.jpg
The router decided that the bottom horn was a little bit too sharp, so it will be eased off somewhat when I start tidying things up.
https://i.imgur.com/eVNYNuH.jpg
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They can have a mind of their own, and can change it very quickly! :pQuote:
The router decided that the bottom horn was a little bit too sharp...
Looks like the main body's lower horn is smaller than that we can currently see on the top, so in reality only a small modification needs to be made. Lucky!
Maybe saw the excess off rather than risk the router?
Yep, already done :)
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Forstner time.
https://i.imgur.com/7onc7gu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xmna0yo.jpg
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Moving right along...
Dozy, how are you joining the edges of your top and bottom pieces? Do you have a jointer?
This is one concern keeping me from making a multi-piece body blank. I don't mind spending some dough on wider bar clamps, but can't justify any expenses on extra machinery.
Clamps and a prayer.
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Top is two pieces. Bottom is three. I let titebond do the job from there, though there is a little bit of levelling involved. Grateful for my shinto rasp.
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You don't "need" a jointer for stuff like that. Many manage just fine with either the right blade on a table saw /circular saw, or failing that, a jointing plane. If you realy feel the need for power tools, there are several You Tube vids about turning an electric plane into a jointer.
Wholeheartedly agree Rabbs, I have spent a great deal of time teaching myself how to joint manually. It’s a skill that comes in very handy for any number of luthiery/carpentry/cabinetmaking tasks.
I’ve seen a number of those planer to jointer vids. Can’t says I’d be keen to do so.
Sorry in advance for the hijack, Dozy...
Rabbit, can you elaborate on "right blade" please? I have a table saw.Quote:
Many manage just fine with either the right blade on a table saw /circular saw, or failing that, a jointing plane.
Frankie, by manually I presume you're talking about using a hand plane? (and probably a really high quality one)Quote:
I have spent a great deal of time teaching myself how to joint manually. It’s a skill that comes in very handy for any number of luthiery/carpentry/cabinetmaking tasks.
Do you set up a jig especially for this job?
Thanks guys!
Yes, a Stanley number 6, or a similar sized one. I have an equivalent “Groz” brand one. I think the biggest part of it is not necessarily the expense or quality of the plane but the adjustment and set up. If you’ve got a good stable flat sole, and a quality iron that takes and holds a good edge, you’re well on the way. If you can find one second hand a number 7 Stanley or equivalent are great but they all seem rather $$$$$ even on fleaBay.
If you have the finances, it’s great to have expensive planes but it means you have to be even more vigilant about maintenance, iron care and sharpening etc.
I don’t tend to joint wide boards so much, it’s mainly the edges for body blanks or tops.
a good shooting board, a known straight edge and patience is about all I use. For thinner tops I’ll clamp the piece between two squared blocks the same length to give it some stability while I work on them.
You can of course sand the base of any plane flat with sandpaper stuck to a pane of flat glass.
I like Rex Kruger's channel on YouTube for ways of upgrading the performance of cheaper tools. I certainly got my old Stanley No.4 into a decent shape after watching some of his videos.
Here's his playlist on planes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8L07...SUAtmy8Cdua7Td
Thanks FW & SB!
Using the appropriate blade for the material. In some cases, such as ripping blades such as 24 tooth or coarser blade on a 10 inch/254mm, there are so called "glueline" blades intended to give a better surface for a clean glue line. I haven't seen finer blades with a glueline designation. Probably more crucially you need a sharp blade and a smooth, uninterrupted feed.
Even though we have a jointer at the shed, and he prefers to use the big boys toys, the other guy that makes guitars has a bit of a boner for Les Pauls.For match booked tops he prefers to use a plane and a shooting board.
Thanks Rabbit.
I'm thinking a plane and shooting board is the way I'll go. I'll need to buy a decent plane, and also make the shooting board (which I only learnt about today - thanks!!!).
Since I'll likely be starting with DAR pine for my first scratch body, it should only require a tiny bit of clean up.
Cheers guys!
(now back to Dozy's thread!)
In the spirit of this thread, did someone say Jim Root inspired Baritone Jazzmaster?
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No? Must have been Ig0r[emoji848]
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Had a routing incident a couple weeks back with a loose bearing collar while doing the neck pocket. I think I've saved it, but I won't show close up pics just yet.
I also had an incident on one of my other scratch projects with my stewmac humbucker template. The template is now effectively trash/reference, but the other project is salvageable with mounting rings.
Lesson learnt: I'm never buying an acrylic template again. Too hard to repair the "love bites".
However, this led me to take a leaf out of Trevor's book, and create my own "tight" template. Took a while this afternoon to create the template and apply it, but very happy with the result of today's cavity exploration.
https://i.imgur.com/HXUWynh.jpg
Ah me, yes. Routers handy to have, terrifying when it all goes south.
I’ve the same StewMac template, but I’ve used it as a master to create MDF sacrificial templates and preserve the acrylic one. Thankfully it was the MDF that got screwed up when I had a similar incident with a Vee dual humbucker rout.
Igor and I have to have a chat about lab tidying, the bodies are stacking up….
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Thank you for making my own endeavours feel considered and conservative XD
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