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Thanks WAZKELLY for the Tru Oil brush hint. This new build is coming along great with two coats of Tru Oil on it. I am trying for a yellow, orange, red, brown Dragons Breath Fade......a three letter company has this on some of the wonderful carved top guitars.
These pics are with two brushed coats of Tru Oil over the stain.....wow.
Wow! That is awesome. How did you do that?Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzbike
Great burst Ozz, c'mon, tell us your secret.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fender3x
Honest,Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
lots of trial and error on scrap pine....and this fellows videos. BIG D on You tube..... My effort is a combination of lots of his work and others....but this was the inspiration for this colour scheme.
This one is part 3 of 3 about a rebuild of a certain brand guitar he completed. (This is the stain video.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FOS6W8YRKQ
I used Angelus Yellow, Red and Orange and Feast Watson Elm as I don't have any Angelus brown.
Be really careful of the RED as it takes hold and will not let go.....you can see the V on the back I had to work hard to get it down to the shape and size.
Oh, and the orange goes on very yellow and changes colour slowly to orange....so wipe and wait a little with it....as you can end up with it all over the place.
I did not do all the sanding he did during the staining phase.....as my P Bass is a solid lump of Ash. I sanded to 180grit...ebony timbermate, then sanded 240, 320 and 400. Stains on at 400 grit. No grain raising at all. Leave over night....no sand back. Then started brushing on the Tru-Oil. Now at 3 coats. I think that is enough and I will let it hang now for 7 days and then start the Polyurethane.....probably 3 lots of Poly...wet sand 600, 800 and/or 1200 if I do 4 lots. Then 10 to 14 days hanging and wet sand to 2000 and then cutting compound, polish, wax.
After a couple of coats of Tru-Oil and I did not like the stain....sanded back to bare wood and started again. Now we have gone back through the grits, ebony Timbermate and poly coats to......here.....
The body and the neck on this one have now been wet sanded through to 1200 grit. Just sprayed with the third coat, 10 mins apart, of Poly....and here she is.
The body and neck are done as far as poly etc goes. Taped up the neck...got it flat....then levelled the frets...crowned them...rounded the ends over then smoothed with 400 grit 600 800 steel wool and autosol. Super smooth, round ends and polished and shiny.
This kit has not neck mounting screw holes and no under bridge ground wire hole. So did the neck first...went well. Then the body ground wire hole.
I have been thinking for some time that my long drill bit....is still a little short. But you persevere....just as the tip poked out in the control cavity it broke at the chuck. Bugger. Now how the hang do I get that 6 inch drill bit out of the body?????
This drill bit...bugger... ???????
Can you grab the protruding end with blunt-nosed pliers and twist it out? (anticlockwise)
That's a real bugger of a thing to happen!
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Nice ground wire. :cool:
LOL!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers
(sorry)
If you can twist it anti-clockwise it should stop biting into the wood with the tip, and it should hopefully just then pull out.
You might just grip it with a hand drill (if you have one).
If you can rotate it but not pull it, you might be able to hacksaw a groove on either side, to which you might be able to pull on with something like small pincers or wire cutters.
If all else fails, you could may be able to cut or grind it almost flush, then knock it in below the surface with a punch. Then leave it in and drill another ground wire hole.
Thanks cliff....was actually funny...can't solder it though. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers
Thanks for the ideas guys. I have been trying to rotate it anti-clockwise and it is a slow process....I have a little more of the drill bit extracted...but the vice grips and pliers are wearing the bit away a little as it is moves.
Thanks for the ideas Simon.....yeah the bury it idea was on my list....I think I will just try to remove it first.
We have success. Locked a set of tiny super cheap auto wise grips onto the end of the drill bit. I got about 5 to 10 degrees of wiggle in both directions. With the wiggle and a bit of rearward tension the drill bit squeaked and moaned but pulled back out of the body.
Now to fix the damage I did scratching and pulling.....bugger.
How much damage is under the bridge area?
Ya should see the damage Bronze. Metal damage.....brain damage3...Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Thanks for your concern Simon. The mess under the bridge will be hidden....I have a couple of slip scratches and some swirls to sand/buff/polish out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Love the mad max quote mate. Nice. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbit
Buba Zanetti has it on good authority this drill bit is not as it seems. Full of treachery. Sent by the Bronze. Bronze take our pride....Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzbike
Glad ya got the bit out. I suppose you could always have silver soldered wire to it or TIG brazed it :rolleyes: ....