A family matter.

I have an order from a family member to build a Telecaster to play live....on stage. Now that is some pressure....phew.

I have ordered a PBG DTL-1 kit....

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ican-ash-body/

Added to the kit....

ToneRider Vintage Plus Tele pickup set
1 x Treble bleed circuit
Upgrade to Grover Locking tuners (chrome)
1 x bone nut
1 x switchcraft jack socket
2 x CTS mini 250k pots

Real Parts:-

1 x Wilkinson Compensated 3 saddle ashtray bridge
1 x Gotoh Tele switch plate for US sized pots (chrome)
1 x Oak Grigsby 3 position lever switch
1 x Sprague Orange Drop 0.047 mfd capacitor
1 x set of 2 chrome dome top metal knobs with grub screws
1 x 3 way TOP HAT style Black Knob

E-Bay:-

1 x Navy Blue Angelus Dye
1 x Blue Angelus Dye
1 x Turquoise Angelus Dye.

Obviously a 3 colour Blue burst on the body, and seeing as the neck and fingerboard are listed as being flame maple, I think a timber mate coloured grain and natural clean finish on the neck and fingerboard.

The body will be Navy Blue on the sides and Back.....with the Blue feathered around the edges and Turquoise in the middle.

The ash grain should look great with that I think. Tru Oil does drop a little amber colour.....end result Green on Blue finishes. So maybe I will have to seal it up with Shellac first and then see if the Tru Oil can still pick up the grain....or just the Polyurethane. But the poly only really covers things...not much grain grabbing happening.

I have noticed that in my Iceman build....that wiping the Tru Oil on to the surface has completely spread the burst effect out....and it looks like it has gone.

A Blue Tele with a flame maple neck will be super cool.....maybe dribble a little Vintage Amber on the neck as well....hmmm.

EDIT:- Frankie that makes 6 underway now. It happens so quickly. Ha Ha Ha Ha....does Igor have a cousin???

Hi Ozzie,
Should look good with that colour scheme.

Suggest trying brushing 1st & 2nd coats of TO before starting with rag applications as that prevents dragging the stain finish all over the place. Wouldn't recommend TO over any blues if you want it to remain blue.

Cheers Waz

Sent from my Lenovo TB-7104F using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Ozzie,
Should look good with that colour scheme.

Suggest trying brushing 1st & 2nd coats of TO before starting with rag applications as that prevents dragging the stain finish all over the place. Wouldn't recommend TO over any blues if you want it to remain blue.

Cheers Waz

Sent from my Lenovo TB-7104F using Tapatalk

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I think the brush is a good idea. The rag has closed up the burst I had on the Iceman....it still looks great....but just not as yellow in the middle anymore.

I think with this one I will have to rely on the timbermate to pick up the grain and then the colours and a good sand back as it is solid wood not a veneer. No Tru Oil to make it green.

Can't wait to see this baby come to life.

Today I have received the three bottles of Angelus dyes, and the Real Parts order.

Nice to have the two suppliers close to me.

The PBG order has left W.A....nice time with no soaking rain...to get some others closer to finished.

I have been thinking about the neck...I think some timbermate to highlight the grain...then some vintage amber to get a pretend roasted maple finish and to provide some more depth to the flame that I won’t get this time due to no Tru-Oil.

I found two videos on You Tube about blue bursts that I like....I think the similar technique to the Nuclear Burst video will be good to use this time...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3ZYAOmA6ZI

I am looking at the Navy Blue on the back and sides. The blue around the edges on the top and Turquoise in the centre after a nice sand back....solid wood without veneer this time.

I'm following this one with interest. Also about to start a Tele kit.

Keen to see how the blue goes.

Oz, I've recently built a DTL-1 as well, and it just happens to be blue. I also went with the Grovers and Wilkinson bridge, but got the Hot Classic Toneriders. This is my "go to" guitar at the moment - all the spank of a "Carry On" film, and more twang than my home-brew. I'm looking forward to following your build.

One thing to bear in mind is that they're fairly heavy - mine weighs in at about 4Kg. That doesn't bother me, as most of the time it's on my knee, but if yours is going to be played live a lot, you might want to think about weight relief.

I was really happy with the flame in the neck on mine. I used a very light/dilute Feast Watson Golden Teak stain, and finished with Tru Oil, which together brought the flame out very nicely. I wouldn't have thought Timbermate would have much effect on maple, as there's not much in the way of pores to fill. Why don't you want to use Tru Oil on yours?

The body, on the other hand, will be a great candidate for some Timbermate. The ash is really porous. I think I applied two or three coats of Ebony on mine, left to dry for a couple of days and then sanded back between coats, and still didn't end up with a completely level finish. I think it would take a lot of TO to level the finish out if you don't fill it first.

Are you doing a string through?

Just remember....No Tru Oil on Blue. It will turn green after a while.

I had a visit from the end user this weekend. I made her stand and play my Artist TC 59 and it was way too heavy for her.

So I have the Iceman under construction she likes it....and it is very light.

She also loved he hollow body Tele that is nearly finished. Not so keen on the big P90’s.

She is my grand daughter and we get on really well. She looked at the body of my FREE five string jazz bass...and the Iceman...and in one quick step found the issue with all my bursts finishes.

Not fixing the colours in place. I love the effect Tru Oil has on the figure in wood...but I forget that it grabs stains/dyes and moves them around....a lot.

Today we stained with water based stains an old pine chopping board....I cut it in half. She did one...I did the other. Mine had the better figure and grain...but the deeper/darker colour just took over and was pushed around over everything else when I put Tru oil on.

Hers was nearly flat with grain, but had a beautiful three colour burst that was stable and fixed by just spraying poly straight over the stain after it had dried.

I have a multi part question to you all:-

How do I grab and show the chatoyance of the grain and figure of the wood the way Tru Oil does, and keep the stains or dyes fixed in the places I have applied them? Can I spray Tru Oil? Can I get the same grain grabbing effect of Tru Oil through a spray sanding sealer like the Mohawk one from Australia Luthier Supplies and Guitar Australia? Will shellac spray on and act as a sanding sealer so I then can rub Tru Oil on to grab the grain? I want to lock up the colours without touching them....brushing would still move them around.

Because whilst my grand daughter did well with her burst....her grain was terribly flat. I still don’t find poly anything other than a liquid plastic bag....it just wraps around the wood.

I have spent a lot on cans of the cabots spray poly....and saw that the big green shed has it in 4 litre cans. I figure you can thin it with turps and I have a spray compressor etc. I love the robust nature and great finish I am getting from the poly over the Tru Oil. it just lights up like a piece of wood dipped in sparkling epoxy.

My idea is spray Tru oil to get the wood alive. The spray the poly to weatherproof and life proof the finish...both satin and gloss.

Much interest will be taken of any ideas.

P.S. No Tru Oil on this blue build...wonder if poly will also go green?

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Originally Posted by jonwhitear

Oz, I've recently built a DTL-1 as well, and it just happens to be blue. I also went with the Grovers and Wilkinson bridge, but got the Hot Classic Toneriders. This is my "go to" guitar at the moment - all the spank of a "Carry On" film, and more twang than my home-brew. I'm looking forward to following your build.

One thing to bear in mind is that they're fairly heavy - mine weighs in at about 4Kg. That doesn't bother me, as most of the time it's on my knee, but if yours is going to be played live a lot, you might want to think about weight relief.

I was really happy with the flame in the neck on mine. I used a very light/dilute Feast Watson Golden Teak stain, and finished with Tru Oil, which together brought the flame out very nicely. I wouldn't have thought Timbermate would have much effect on maple, as there's not much in the way of pores to fill. Why don't you want to use Tru Oil on yours?

The body, on the other hand, will be a great candidate for some Timbermate. The ash is really porous. I think I applied two or three coats of Ebony on mine, left to dry for a couple of days and then sanded back between coats, and still didn't end up with a completely level finish. I think it would take a lot of TO to level the finish out if you don't fill it first.

Are you doing a string through?

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Too heavy for the end user....now for me or will be for sale.

Not string through...top mount compensated bridge.

I like the cedar timbermate and how it sits in the grain...on the neck I use a slightly thinner mix...the body gets a custard mix twice...sanded at 240 and then again and sanded at 320. Not too much moisture....and I fill holes with paper that I pull out soon as the slurry is on.

I am thinking maybe a little darker golden teak than yours....or even some Color tone vintage amber....but definitely under Tru oil.

Back of the neck will be satin...for ease of playing. Maybe I will do the whole neck in satin and then just buff up the headstock to a gloss.

Advice from Wazkelly on application of tru oil over my ES/5V burst. I would add to slightly overlap the brush strokes to avoid a drying edge, and to paint in the direction of the grain. Work from light to dark. Keep the brush strokes light...practice also wouldn’t hurt.


From build #2 through to current # 6 I have brushed on initial 2 coats of Tru Oil before switching to rag application method.

It is quite simple, just pour a small amount in small container, load the brush up with plenty and lightly paint the surface with a 1" to no bigger than 2" brush, in same manner as you would on a door, wall, or any other surface. You will notice on first coat application that the timber is very thirsty and need to resist going back over where you have just applied finish too many times as it can end up disturbing the stain.

Give it least 24 hours and then brush the 2nd coat on which shouldn't need as much delicate care due to a proper thick 1st coat also acting as the sealer.

Cheers, Waz

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Originally Posted by DarkMark

Advice from Wazkelly on application of tru oil over my ES/5V burst. I would add to slightly overlap the brush strokes to avoid a drying edge, and to paint in the direction of the grain. Work from light to dark. Keep the brush strokes light...practice also wouldn’t hurt.


From build #2 through to current # 6 I have brushed on initial 2 coats of Tru Oil before switching to rag application method.

It is quite simple, just pour a small amount in small container, load the brush up with plenty and lightly paint the surface with a 1" to no bigger than 2" brush, in same manner as you would on a door, wall, or any other surface. You will notice on first coat application that the timber is very thirsty and need to resist going back over where you have just applied finish too many times as it can end up disturbing the stain.

Give it least 24 hours and then brush the 2nd coat on which shouldn't need as much delicate care due to a proper thick 1st coat also acting as the sealer.

Cheers, Waz

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Thank you Mark and Waz.

If the iceman was not a veneer I would be tempted to sand back....but it is...and I will endure.

Absolutely swear by brushing 1st & 2nd coats, even on a natural finish as it goes on quicker and thicker from the get go.

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That's a great tip. I can see that improving my own future Tru-oil endeavours.

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Wow...and wow again.

I have to say that the supplier of these Tele kits has done a really good job. It is a two piece Ash body. Every hole is pre-drilled...makes it hard to do my normal recessed Tele jack socket, but that is fine.

The neck to body fit is amazing.

I really like the grain and figure on the body. The flame on the neck and fingerboard.....without any metho, water etc...just by eye...is pretty cool too.

As Molly would say..."Do yourselves a favour."

Make a DT-L tele.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Absolutely swear by brushing 1st & 2nd coats, even on a natural finish as it goes on quicker and thicker from the get go.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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Thanks mate.

I cannot believe that the obvious nature of the Tru Oil spreading the colour has escaped me for so long. I feel like such an idiot.

Well...at least there will be no issue on this build. No Tru Oil.

I have to say these necks are amazing. It was sanded very fine and was a good shape to start with.....I cut the headstock to a 90's style T shape from a template.

The neck has had 80 grit, 120 grit, 180 grit.....1 x coat of cedar Timbermate.....dry....sanded off with 240 grit. Damp down with a cloth and water...light sand with 320 grit...did this 3 times. Sanded (dry) to 400 grit.

(First photo of the neck with no flash...the others are with flash.)

1 x coat of Feast Watson Golden Teak stain.

1 x thick coat of Tru -Oil....dry about 15 mins in the pics.

The body...well the Navy Blue has a lot of purple in it. The Blue is nice colour...but the winner is the turquoise...it is amazing.

Sanded through to 400 grit with 2 coats of timbermate at 180 and 240....then damp wiped at 320 x 3 times....then a light sand to 400.

One coat of the Blue across the front and the Navy around the edge, the sides and the complete back.

Let dry for about 1 hour. Started sanding at 400 grit...nothing....ended up sanding 240 grit, 360 girt and then 400 grit.

Then one heavy coat of the Turquoise in the middle....feathered the Navy and the Turquoise together around the edges. It is a narrow edge.....but if I try to spread the Navy it goes very purple and gets a sort of reflective finish to it.

Three oiled/glue/greasy marks on the front. The back had about five glue marks...plastic bristles brush and goof off fixed them easily. But the front ones have stayed. I am more inclined to think they are in the wood.

I will let both dry until tomorrow now and see how things are.

Front and Back.....and one last neck shot. (No flash)

I bet you can’t take your eyes off that neck. Nice score.

Nice work.
What's you dilution ratio with the golden teak?
I'm wanting a similar tone (maybe just a tad lighter) on the neck I'm currently doing. I did some experimenting yesterday but haven't quite hit the mark.
A secret recipe would be appreciated :o

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Originally Posted by DarkMark

I bet you can’t take your eyes off that neck. Nice score.

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It is fantastic...even better with Tru Oil. That stuff finds figure in wood where none could be seen....and is why I have so many issues in the past with bursts....I love the stuff and what it shows hidden in the wood.

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Nice work.
What's you dilution ratio with the golden teak?
I'm wanting a similar tone (maybe just a tad lighter) on the neck I'm currently doing. I did some experimenting yesterday but haven't quite hit the mark.
A secret recipe would be appreciated :o

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McCreed,

Honestly, I use it as it comes out of the bottle. I shake it up pretty heavily......do the neck prep as I mentioned. I then wipe on one coat and check everywhere as I go over it a couple of times to ensure complete coverage. I do not let it dry and come back for more. I get one shot....I have found that works best.....as multiple coats goes way too dark.

The application of stain/dye is where I got my thing with fabric and a cotton wool ball. I get a controlled even coat that does not drip nor blob in places I don't wish it to. I use about a 4 x 4 cm piece of cotton T shirt with a single cotton ball inside. I then crumbled it up like a poor mans shellac applicator.

I think the back of the neck in this case is just right.....but as the frets got in the way from about 12th down the colour is a little darker.

The Tru Oil does make it an Amber to Caramel colour. I find the Golden Teak a better result than the Yellow from U-Beat Stains, and not as deep caramel as Vintage Amber from Colortone.

The Golden Teak reeks of Alcohol....so I suppose you could cut it with metho. If you intend to do more than one coat I would suggest cutting it by the number of coats...e.g. 50/50 for 2 coats....as it gets dark pretty quick.

Also, the one coat method is heavily effected by sanding etc later on....so ensure you have coverage with your finish done well. I have sanded through it on more than one occasion.

I am sorry that there is no more info for you.

Thanks Ozz.

You are correct about the FW Prooftint in that it is alcohol based (which is weird to me because you can tint oil-based poly with it just fine).
In my testing I have been diluting with metho as you suggested (and recommended by FW). I played around with the mix again to day and came up with a tone I think I can live with. I may whack some Tru Oil over it before spraying my satin poly though.

I tried using it neat (on a earlier neck) and wasn't totally wrapped in that colour even with just one coat. I thought it was way too orange, but it suited the project so it wasn't so bad in the end.

I guess I will have to continue experimenting. I know the FW Golden Teak is widely used here, but I've yet to replicate what I have seen others achieve. Thanks for your info.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Thanks Ozz.

You are correct about the FW Prooftint in that it is alcohol based (which is weird to me because you can tint oil-based poly with it just fine).
In my testing I have been diluting with metho as you suggested (and recommended by FW). I played around with the mix again to day and came up with a tone I think I can live with. I may whack some Tru Oil over it before spraying my satin poly though.

I tried using it neat (on a earlier neck) and wasn't totally wrapped in that colour even with just one coat. I thought it was way too orange, but it suited the project so it wasn't so bad in the end.

I guess I will have to continue experimenting. I know the FW Golden Teak is widely used here, but I've yet to replicate what I have seen others achieve. Thanks for your info.

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I think the secret is the Tru Oil. I do two coats and then look to see if a third is needed. I find that it is dulled to a bright honey colour.

Spray poly you say....in a can like me...or have you taken the air compressor and gun step?

I have an Aldi compressor I have upgraded, adjusted and it runs great and keeps a consistent pressure. I just have never been game to use a gun....any hints if you have?

Quote:

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Spray poly you say....in a can like me...or have you taken the air compressor and gun step?

I have an Aldi compressor I have upgraded, adjusted and it runs great and keeps a consistent pressure. I just have never been game to use a gun....any hints if you have?

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I've been using guns and an airbrush for a couple of years now, and in that time have determined I don't like lacquered necks. So I started spraying my poly.
Initially with just the airbrush, which gave me good results but still required lots of coats. It gives better/quicker build than wipe-on poly or Tru Oil does but would still take me up to several days to get the build-up to where I wanted it.

I then got a terrific little touch-up gun (Star .8mm) and this is just what I needed. I can do a neck over the course one day (conditions and time allowing). This has worked out to be 3-5 coats inside of an hour; dry for 1.5 hours; repeat 2 more times (3 sessions total). Done.

Let dry for 10-14 days for gloss to wet sand/polish, but satin is now my preferred finish, so 7-10 days and I'll attach it to the body.

I also have a larger gun (1.4 - 2.0mm w/ 600ml cup) that I have continued to use on bodies and also just with acrylic lacquer (which I do like on a body).

The touch-up gun is literally just a miniature of the big one. It has complete adjustment/control of fluid and air/pattern, where as the airbrush has a single circular pattern and only fluid flow adjustment (air can be adjusted by the regulator, but not fine tuned so to speak).
I'll always keep the airbrush around as it's still handy for some smaller jobs (eg: headstock touch-up after a repair) and I'm going to try the touch-up gun on full body some time. I think it will be more than fine. I don't see going back to rattle cans any time.

THIS is the touch-up gun I have. There are more expensive (higher quality) ones, but not spraying everyday or doing entire car bodies, it's perfect for performance and value IMO.

McCreed,

Your information is much appreciated. I too, by a process of elimination and time have come to polyurethane as my finish of choice. I still do my oils and wax finishes, and I use satin poly on headstocks for decal adhesion and coverage.

I spend $20 a can at the moment and it just disappears.

Thanks.

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I spend $20 a can at the moment and it just disappears.

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Prezactly! One of my motivating factors for switching to compressor & guns was materials costs. I can buy a 250ml can of Cabot's and it will last me months.

I realise it may be a false economy with the outlay for the equipment, but there are a number of other advantages to having the gear that are well worth the expense IMO. It also opens up limitless possibilities for colour choice rather than what is offered with off-the-shelf spray cans.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Absolutely swear by brushing 1st & 2nd coats, even on a natural finish as it goes on quicker and thicker from the get go.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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Waz,

Do you just use a normal house painting trim style paint brush from the "BGS"?

Do they clean up with turps? How many coats with this method do you do?

Why I ask? I have ordered an Ash P Bass kit and I want to try the red/orange/yellow style of burst on the kit and the headstock front face.

Hi Ozzie,
Cheapie 1" to 2" brushes from BGSFOS which can be cleaned up in turps.
I tended to use mostly cheapest 1" and throw them after 2 coats.
Cheers Waz

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Ozzie,
Cheapie 1" to 2" brushes from BGSFOS which can be cleaned up in turps.
I tended to use mostly cheapest 1" and throw them after 2 coats.
Cheers Waz

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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Thank you very much mate.

I like the colours on the front. Turquoise in the middle, blue on the outside and Navy Blue on sides and back. The Navy Blue has a certain purple aspect to it under different lighting.

But I love the top. :)

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

.... The Navy Blue has a certain purple aspect to it under different lighting.......

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I have found the same thing and I don't much like it. :rolleyes:

Nice colour Ozz. And the grain looks great. Did you grain fill with Timbermate?

That's screaming out for a white pearloid pickguard! (but I always say that... :o)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

Nice colour Ozz. And the grain looks great. Did you grain fill with Timbermate?

That's screaming out for a white pearloid pickguard! (but I always say that... :o)

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Ebony timbermate it is indeed. The pickguard is a nice idea...but they had no stock at the time....and yes you do say that a little. :)

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Originally Posted by McCreed

That's screaming out for a white pearloid pickguard! (but I always say that... :o)

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The men in pearloid white coats will be coming to take you away shortly. ;)

They have a car sitting outside his house now....on a pearloid stakeout. :D

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The men in pearloid white coats will be coming to take you away shortly.

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That conjures up visions of either Monty Python or early Pink Floyd...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/24...g?v=1571710223

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Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/24...g?v=1571710223

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Ha ha ha …. Pearloid coat right there. :)