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Hello all, I have a few spots that don't seem to want to accept the stain. I used a grain filler with a dark tint as my first coat, then sanded most of it away to create some contrast in the grain. Since then I've applied a few coats of Keda wood stain with no filler. I have a few spots here and there that don't seem to want to accept any stain (or very little). Not sure what to do? Sand a bit and keep adding? Suggestions?
Thanks!
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Those are glue spots. Ideally, before staining, it's a good idea to wipe the bodies down with a damp cloth and look for any spots like these. Then you need to use something like a toothbrush and acetone to scrub it off. It's quite a common issue unfortunately. I have seen people do a pretty good job of disguising it with a marker. If it were me I'd sand back and start again, making sure to do a pass over the problem with some acetone.
I agree with Sonic that best course of action is sanding back, removing the glue spots and re-staining.
The only things I'll add are when you're checking for glue spots, regarding the "damp rag" Sonic mentioned, I recommend dampening it with methylated spirits not water. Metho will raise the grain significantly less then water.
Also, I found using a small brass bristle brush worked better than a toothbrush. You can get them cheap at a hardware or auto supply store. They usually come in a 3-pack of plastic, brass and steel bristles.
Thanks for the suggestions gents. I'll see if I can sand back the areas and re-stain those spots.
Another question gentlemen... I added one coat of clear grain filler when I was happy with the overall color. I thought it best to do a light sand before a second coat. I used a fine P500 grit (maybe not fine enough?) and started inside the horn. It seemed to scratch rather easily? Should I not sand between grain filler coats? I was going to add 3-4 coats of sanding sealer next before the final finish top coats. But now I'm worried about these scratch marks? Will they be obvious if I just start covering them with clear coats of grain filler, sanding sealer and then the final finish?
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I'm not sure what to advise to remove the scratches. Your process seems back to front to me.
Grain filling (this would include sanding sealer) is typically done prior to staining, unless you're using a a product I'm unfamiliar with that specifically instructs to apply after.
Grain filler and sanding sealer will always require levelling by sanding. If the colour is under the grain filler, there's going to be the risk of sanding through it. Also, I would never use such a fine grit paper before applying any clear coat, as you are essentially polishing the surface and potentially creating adhesion problems for the clear.
I found with glue spots, put some stain onto a piece of 400 grit wet and dry and gently sand. You will notice the stain will take straight away as soon as the glue has gone. I used this method on a maple veer top and it worked well..
Hmmm. I added dye to the first coat of grain filler when I applied it to darken the deeper parts of the grain. After sanding most of it off I moved onto the staining. I was under the impression staining needed to be on the bare wood and that adding coats of grain filler first would leave a surface the stain wouldn't adhere to. I'm using Crystalac clear water based grain filler. It does say after application you apply the top coat. But I'm applying 4-5 coats of sanding sealer first so I can do a level sanding of the surface without reaching (hopefully) the grain filler layer or stain layer. Then the final Crystalac Brite Tone clear gloss finish. Probably 4-5 coats of that before final wet sanding and buffing. At least that's the current plan.
I stand corrected after looking at the Crystalac website and some videos. I've only used more traditional methods and materials which all are done pre-stain. I guess I should expand my horizons, and maybe an old dog can learn new tricks!Quote:
I was under the impression staining needed to be on the bare wood and that adding coats of grain filler first would leave a surface the stain wouldn't adhere to.
The website does say it can be applied pre or post stain (same as Aquaclear).
From Crystalac:
Quote:
Stained Wood -
For an even grained look, apply WGF first on the bare wood. Sand, reapply, sand again. Then stain desired color and Topcoat. This will give the look of using a stain conditioner. The stain will have an even appearance and not be darker in the wood grains.
General staining -
Stain bare wood as directed. If using a solvent or oil based stain, allow ample time for it to thoroughly dry making sure all solvents have evaporated. We suggest using a waterbased stain for a much quicker and more environmentally safe process. After staining, apply WGF. Sand and reapply if necessary. You can stain over the WGF again if any of the stain was sanded off initially. Apply Topcoat and you're done.
Nice. That's got me thinking, grain fill > sanding sealer > stain, is a decent option. But stain > sanding sealer > stain, also works.
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Yes, it sounds interesting, but getting it in AUS is neither easy or inexpensive. (only one distributor listed for AUS, and it's pre-order only)
It can be purchased through eBay US, but with shipping and GST, it works out to roughly $63AU for 236ml (8 oz.). And that's just for the grain filler. If you go with their 3-step process, it adds up quickly.