Neck Reset for a builder in North Narrabeen NSW

Hey folks, we have a builder in North Narambeen who has a serious set neck issue, see attached image.

He did do a Mock Build, but couldn't get the bridge in position, so the end result is a set neck at the wrong angle.

He's done an amazing finish, so it would great if we can get someone on here to reset the neck... I think it needs a decent size shim at the back of the pocket.

So, anyone in this area of NSW who could help out? Pit Bull Guitars will pay for your time in coupons, product or karma.

Attachment 37127

Thank you

Can we have more pics, because there's lot that doesn't look quite right there. Whoever's going to even attempt it will certainly want a lot more details before thinking about looking at it. E.g if it's a glued-in neck, what glue did they use, as that will determine whether it can be steamed off or not. And there is always risk of damage to the body finish, which the builder must accept.

What kit is it? Looks like a hollow body of some sort because of the arched top, so maybe FS-1 as that's the only hollow body I know of available with a maple fretboard, but the FS-1 neck sits a bit taller than that (looking at other builds). Looks almost like they've fitted a bolt-on neck into a set-neck kit the neck angle is so far out. Unless there's a very high nut as well, and the bridge is as low as it will go, then any 'shim' would need to be around 6-8mm tall (my estimation) which really isn't going to work. You may get away with 1mm-2mm, but more than that and it's really not going to work at all well and you'll lose sustain and tone. You'd need to add a complete extra block under the heel to raise the neck up, as well as adding some more angle. It's almost as though the tongue the factory necks have glued to the bottom of the heel is missing.

The dip in the top along the neck in the pocket looks odd to me. Most kits are straight-edged there, so could the top have lifted away from the centre block (not an easy fix at all)?

AS an aside, the neck pickup ring will need to be rotated to match the body top curve to get the pickup sitting level (and lower) in it.

It sure looks like an FS-1.
This thread may be of some help as to how it should look.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=7401&page=2

A good pic towards the bottom of page 2 that shows there is some dip in the neck/pocket line but not that much.
A few razor saws (or fine Japan saws) and fret groove cleaning saws will probably be needed.

Good luck to whoever takes it on - the build deserves it based on what I can see.

Cheers
Ricky

A slight dip, yes, but Neverwas's neck is sitting so much higher than the one above, and its angle is up, not down. Something very wrong with that neck. I'd suggest it needs probably needs a new one.

Yes, I fully agree Simon.
I included the link as a good reference for what it should look like.
Angle is all wrong AND quarter inch too low.

Closest person I can think of is Frankie, but still a bit of a hike and maybe not possible with current covid restrictions?

I'd also like to see some more pictures if possible.

This is my ESB-4, which doesn’t look so very different to me, but the neck angle on this one was set up for a very non standard bridge, and it also has non standard pickup rings. I honestly don't recall how much the neck was altered, but I'd be surprised if it were very many mm.

Attachment 37128

Is it certain that an alternate bridge couldn't solve the problem? That pickup ring looks as if its the wrong way round and could also do with thinning a bit which would go a long way to dealing with the pickup height.

If you look at the bridge pickup, you’ll see that it’s sitting a lot higher (I’d guess just under 1cm) than the neck pickup in the plane of the strings with minimal string clearance. So a lower bridge won’t help as the strings would just hit the bridge pickup. And with a curved top, the Tune-O-Matic style bridge fitted is about the only workable option. And a flat Fender-style bridge is only 5mm lower at best and you’d need more than that. Plus it’s a finished guitar, so routing to inset a flat bridge and not damage the finish would be hard work, and you’d also be left with two unused stop post tail holes.

Have looked through pics of my build, this was the closest I could find to the one posted
Attachment 37135
Whether it is a FS or an ES (ordered with a maple board) the neck is far too low in the body. A pic from this angle would help a lot.
Attachment 37136
Makes me think the builder wanted the neck binding level with the body and adjusted to achieve that.
There is no way that neck pickup is going to be lower than the end of the fretboard as it is.
And yeah, pickup ring backwards.

My 2c
Grant

Some more photos for Clay's build

He wants to have a go at fixing this himself, so would greatly appreciate any advice.
Attachment 37141
Attachment 37139
Attachment 37140
Attachment 37137

OK. In response to Adam's last post I will make a few suggestions to get the ball rolling.

Firstly, the 'correct' fix would be to remove the neck and adjust the heel and therefore the height and angle.
However, this would risk a lot of damage to the existing finish and also require an additional piece of wood under the fretboard/body join - not a good idea.

I would suggest removing the pu's and worry about them later.
Recess the bridge turrets into the body or source a much thinner bridge. It will need to recess such that the thumb wheels are flush with the body surface at least.
This will also introduce another problem though. The break angle to the end stop will now be too shallow so this will need lowering or replacing as well.
There is plenty of body depth available and flush or sub-surface turrets could look cool if done carefully.

Once this is done, check the action with a string. If happy then start on the pu's.
The bridge pu ring could be replaced with a neck ring - it looks like it would be about the right height. Maybe a little sanding on the bottom of it to get the profile right.

Turn the neck pu ring round and check with the pu screwed all the way out (down). Sand the ring until it is below the fretboard. If it looks like it will not work this way then recess the ring into the body by carefully cutting around the ring with a sharp scalpel and then slowly removing material and retry until the string still clears the pu when fretted at the 22nd fret.

Just a tip. If you do cut through the finish on the body, reseal the edge of the finish with cyano/epoxy/lacquer to avoid the possibility of the surface finish delaminating.

I know there are more steps to this and others may have better ideas.

Cheers
Ricky