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So the guitar has gone together OK but to get a reasonable action the saddles seem too be way higher than I would like. The screw adjustments are nearly at the end of their travel. Is this normal?!
The neck is seated correctly and straight with intonation set.
Peterhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ddb55f1779.jpg
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You can use an Allen key to lower the bridge pieces.
Yes, but if I lower them then my action is too lowQuote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
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Hi are you able post photo of neck in body from side. Is the fret board on the same level plane as the body or does it tilt down toward the headstock.
Not sure if you can see from the pictures. I could probably drop the action down a little and still be playable, but the saddles will still be adjusted very high. I guess ultimately it doesn't cause any problems as it plays alright
Peterhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c044fa0499.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9bb6ec91d8.jpg
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You could try slipping a very thin shim under the neck end of the heel, a very thin piece of a hard veneer or a sanded down piece of old credit card. Maybe 0.3mm thick or so, just so it fits in between the two neck-end mounting screws. It shouldn't be visible, but it should just change the neck angle slightly to allow you to drop the saddle height by 1mm or so. Doesnt sound much, but it will make the height adjustment screws that bit more secure.
Always worth removing the neck (fit a capo on the 1st fret, loosen the strings a fair bit and you can then unscrew the neck without removing the strings) just to check that there isn't any wood shavings or splinters holding the body end of the heel up a bit. a small difference in neck height/angle in the pocket equates to a much larger difference at the bridge (roughly a 1:4 ratio), so making the body end of the neck heel 0.3mm lower than the neck end, gives you around 1.2mm of difference at the bridge. So any small bits of crud holding one end higher can have a relatively big difference in what the saddles need to be set to.
Alternatively, you could probably fit longer saddle screws to make them more secure. Not sure if 8mm is the same size as your kit nones (select the metric screws).
https://www.realparts.com.au/screws-...le-screws.html
Allparts do a choice of 3 lengths of saddle screw (I know because I bough a selection). Realparts stock a decent subset of Allparts range, but don't have everything. Alternatively, look for longer M3 grub screws on eBay or Amazon.
You are absolutely right on that point, presuming the action you have set now is where you want it, it's more of a visual thing.Quote:
I guess ultimately it doesn't cause any problems as it plays alright
If you're not happy with where it's at and way it plays, then Simon's advice is the way to go.
Just curious, what is your string action at the 12th currently?
Good news is that there are no little screw heads in the way though... Agree with Simon - if you need to drop the saddles - the easiest option would be a shim at the neck - I've used a piece of paper that you hit with a layer or two of spray lacquer to harden it up a little. You can then layer them as needed.
Maybe it's an illusion but I thought I noticed a bow in the neck. Maybe a truss rod adjustment would help?
The whole color scheme of your guitar is awesome, by the way. Nice work!
Thank you Joe, I had been having doubts about how dark the back and neck are. The truss rod might adjust slightly, but after some fine adjustments I've got the action where I want it without any choking or buzzing. The guitar plays really nicely so i'm going to live with it for a while and allow things to settle before I do anything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Garfield
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I think the color of the back and neck really makes the top 'pop' and also goes nicely with the gold. It's a beautiful guitar.