TL-1L First build

Good morning.

Hope all is well

As mentioned in my welcome post that while I am waiting on my custom guitar kit I might as well order a tele kit while i wait. One they actually have in stock. lol

Well today was the day it arrived.

https://i.imgur.com/IQlk6Nv.jpg

Fist impressions? Pretty bloody good. Could not fault much with it. A big thanks to Adam and the team for such a wonderful product.

Only issue is this. Which is inside the control cavity so who cares easy fix.

https://i.imgur.com/XwZx9RF.jpg

Neck looks like good fit.

https://i.imgur.com/3MPNZWR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/y6biHz1.jpg

Guard should hide this
https://i.imgur.com/vwlxgNj.jpg

Mock build
https://i.imgur.com/Lumu2yR.jpg

Scale length

https://i.imgur.com/HI6ThIJ.jpg

Strings attached
Should be close enough i think
https://i.imgur.com/hgZTqKF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5qxZORB.jpg

Frets. No real sharp edges. Shouldn''t take much to fix. Could not check neck level as still waiting on notched straight edge.

https://i.imgur.com/VmcX5Vn.jpg

Only concern so far is hope the stain i was hoping to use will be ok with the darker center board on the body.

Stay safe

Steve

Looking good. I'd be trying to get the strings to run with the Low E a little closer to the edge. The smaller High E may tend to slip off the fretboard the way it is at the moment.

Further to what Sonic said, and referencing your photo of the gap at the bottom of the heel (5th from top) I think if you fix up that corner radius in the pocket on the bass side, it will close that gap as well as align the strings to where they should be.

Nice looking kit! Enjoy :)

Hi guys

Thanks for your input.

Made the following changes as recommended.

https://i.imgur.com/3WLti5l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PsweA9J.jpg

Should i go further?
Maybe just a touch?
No! Take it easy it's just your first kit.
Sorry been in quarantine too long started talking to myself lol

Worried about going to far that's all. Nothing is screwed in place as yet so if close enough i might be able to get it spot on when i go to screw bridge plate in place.

That looks much better.

To locate the bridge you need temporarily attach the neck. Then you know when you screw it back on after finishing the alignment will be correct.

Fit the low and high E tuners and run ordinary string over the nut to the bridge saddles. Check the alignment as you have here, then make sure you have 648 to the High E saddle from the inside of the nut. The saddle should be adjusted mostly forward. Every thick string will need to be a bit longer for intonation, so you mostly want to ensure you have adjustment backwards.

Once you have it in place, mark it up. I then recommend checking the pickguard fitment. People normally find that enlarging the bridge cavity lets you move it about 3mm closer and make the gap from bridge to pickguard look right.

If you have a look at this build thread you can see me going through the discovery process with this.

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8005

Yes, good work. That heel sits in the pocket very nicely now.

Thanks McCreed.

Sonic..thanks for link. I am waiting on a non PBG pick up so I might wait till that arrives and see what routing etc I may need to do before lining up.

Going to do headstock shaping and finishing while I wait so still plenty to do

Thanks again to you both for your advice so far.

Have a nice weekend

Good morning

Headstock complete. To be honest only so so but as it was my first attempt I am fairly happy

https://i.imgur.com/dnqwxBS.jpg

Just need some advice please.

For the neck finish not sure what to do. I am looking at 2 options.

Feast and watson golden teak. Stain fretboard and back of neck. Back of neck finished in wipe on poly with only pitbull wax on the fretboard over the teak stain.

Or

Pitbull Acacia neck kit to stain fretboard and back of neck. Use the final coat on back of neck with just the pitbull wax over the acacia fretboard stain no final coat on fretboard.

Just worried about compatability between the 2 different mixes. Say mixing water based stain with a spirit based finish. I think that's what I mean lol.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Steve

The headstock looks great. I know how nerve wracking it can be to start cutting, so well done!

Unfortunately I can offer no trustworthy advice on neck finishes as I am yet to finish mine and my body finish is not without several issues :(

I've gone over my Squier neck after doing the neck radius.
F&W Golden Teak with Gloss clear (White Knights 'Squirts').

I would however leave it to dry for at least a week to harden.

Attachment 34769

cheers, Mark.

Good work on the headstock, except you cut it backwards :p

As for neck finish, I've not used the Dingotone products at all so can't offer much advice on that.
However with maple fretboards it is generally standard practise to seal them. I don't know what the DT "final coat" consists of, but in the description of the Final Top-Coat it states: "It will give you a hard finish that protects the neck and provides a silky smooth neck feel when playing." So I presume it is some kind of polymerised finish. This is typically what is used on maple fretboards.

So with your other option: FW stain & wipe-on poly (presuming both oil-based) no problem. Also recommend doing both back and fb as mentioned above.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

The headstock looks great. I know how nerve wracking it can be to start cutting, so well done!

Unfortunately I can offer no trustworthy advice on neck finishes as I am yet to finish mine and my body finish is not without several issues :(

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Hey Jugglindan
Thanks..yes very nerve wracking lol
Good luck with your build. Hope all goes well

Quote:

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Originally Posted by king casey

I've gone over my Squier neck after doing the neck radius.
F&W Golden Teak with Gloss clear (White Knights 'Squirts').

I would however leave it to dry for at least a week to harden.

Attachment 34769

cheers, Mark.

---

Beauty Mark Thanks for that. Only concern is not confident using cans that's why I thought wipe on might be easier. Oh well guess I better learn using spray on. Will grab a few cans from Bunnings tomorrow to practice on a spare piece first.

Sorry Mark one question would I use the white knights spray on the fretboard as well or use pitbill wax.

Thanks for your time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by McCreed

Good work on the headstock, except you cut it backwards :p

As for neck finish, I've not used the Dingotone products at all so can't offer much advice on that.
However with maple fretboards it is generally standard practise to seal them. I don't know what the DT "final coat" consists of, but in the description of the Final Top-Coat it states: "It will give you a hard finish that protects the neck and provides a silky smooth neck feel when playing." So I presume it is some kind of polymerised finish. This is typically what is used on maple fretboards.

So with your other option: FW stain & wipe-on poly (presuming both oil-based) no problem. Also recommend doing both back and fb as mentioned above.

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McCreed its backwards. Oh no. Can I glue the pieces back on and try again or just turn it around so it's right lol.

Thanks for your input. So confusing sometimes all this talk for a newbie on stains, poly, water based solvent based etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twodogies

Sorry Mark one question would I use the white knights spray on the fretboard as well or use pitbill wax.

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No worries Twodogies. I use it on the whole neck including the fretboard.
This time I finished the neck before putting the frets on thinking that would be it.
Failed to leave it to dry anywhere near long enough (the frets arrived early) and had to sand some fingerprints off it.
Impatience really kills.

cheers, Mark.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twodogies

Hey Jugglindan
Thanks..yes very nerve wracking lol
Good luck with your build. Hope all goes well

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Thanks! I need all the luck I can get. Sometimes it feels like I will never finish the body finish :mad:

Hope everyone is having a good weekend.

New bride pickup finally arrived (well second hand but new to me lol ) and routed out bridge cavity to suit.

Think i got strings aligned properly.

https://i.imgur.com/xXiFah5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6OM2YWT.jpg

Now the problems lol
Strings seem to line up ok but as you can tell center string lining up fret markers and center of bridge is slightly off center. (Middle string lining up with screw head and pencil mark on body).

https://i.imgur.com/utVg7Jf.jpg

The next photo shows bridge placement when the saddle on the right (high E ) is set at 648 from nut to front of saddle.

https://i.imgur.com/83yr9it.jpg

Notice the very big gap between guard and bridge.

Do you think there is enough room for later intonation if I move bridge about 5 mm closer to reduce pick guard gap reducing distance from nut to saddle 643?
Try to square up bridge and see if I can slightly adjust neck by loosening neck screws and slight pressure move the neck so it all lines up better. I have watched many you tube videos and the more I watch the more confused I get.

But then again I am waiting on a new Wilkinson bridge so maybe I should just wait till that arrives and see if that aligns better. The only reason I thought trying this bridge first was I could use it as a template drill holes etc without damaging new bridge.

Thanks for any input.

Yeah, wait for the Wilkinson to drill holes as they are a bit different to the kit ones. You've picked the common issue with these kits. You can assemble as is and it works fine, but you can also absolutely enlarge the bridge cavity and move the whole thing forward to close up that gap without any dramas, there is enough adjustment on the screws to take it up.

You can see me going through the same process in this first TL build I did

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8005

Oh also, I wouldn't be using the center fret markers as any kind of guide. The High and Low E string is the best way to make sure everything is running true.

The Wilkinson is a Telecaster bridge and the one on the kit is a Squier.
Attachment 34867

Cheers, Mark.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

Yeah, wait for the Wilkinson to drill holes as they are a bit different to the kit ones. You've picked the common issue with these kits. You can assemble as is and it works fine, but you can also absolutely enlarge the bridge cavity and move the whole thing forward to close up that gap without any dramas, there is enough adjustment on the screws to take it up.

You can see me going through the same process in this first TL build I did

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8005

Oh also, I wouldn't be using the center fret markers as any kind of guide. The High and Low E string is the best way to make sure everything is running true.

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Hey Sonic.

Good advice. Think I am going to wait. Had to route a bit our for the old fender pickup so hopefully haven't done too much damage using the different bridge plate.

Thanks for link. Beautiful build. Yep exactly what I am going through lol. Hopefully my bridge plate lines up neat as yours.

Also was just thinking. The string i used to line it up is brickies string which is pretty thick, a lot thicker than a high E string so I may have room to move there as well.

Thanks for your help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by king casey

The Wilkinson is a Telecaster bridge and the one on the kit is a Squier.
Attachment 34867

Cheers, Mark.

---

Arvo Mark.
Thanks for that pic. Shit big difference. Didn't even realise the difference when I bought it. Glad I didn't drill any holes before I asked for advice.

Thanks mate much appreciated

There should be a gap of about 5mm between the front of the bridge and the pickguard, so you don't need to move it forward much at all, maybe 2mm maximum.

Here's the gap on one of my Fender Teles (I measured it at 5.25mm).

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/kIljxQ.jpg

I think it’s more about getting the gap even all the way around the bridge. The opening in the kit pick guard isn’t as wide as that, so a 5mm gap will still look off. I think I ended up with around 3mm all the way around in the build I posted earlier.

I don't think you'll even have 2mm at the sides with that particular pickguard. Though it depends on the dimensions of the Wilkinson. The less you need to move it forwards, the less work you'll have to do enlarging the pickup rout.

Twodogies, I presume you did buy a left-handed Wilkinson bridge? I'm sure you did, but I just thought I'd ask as the pickup hole will slant the other way compared to a right-handed bridge.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twodogies

Good morning

Headstock complete. To be honest only so so but as it was my first attempt I am fairly happy

https://i.imgur.com/dnqwxBS.jpg

Just need some advice please.

For the neck finish not sure what to do. I am looking at 2 options.

Feast and watson golden teak. Stain fretboard and back of neck. Back of neck finished in wipe on poly with only pitbull wax on the fretboard over the teak stain.

Or

Pitbull Acacia neck kit to stain fretboard and back of neck. Use the final coat on back of neck with just the pitbull wax over the acacia fretboard stain no final coat on fretboard.

Just worried about compatability between the 2 different mixes. Say mixing water based stain with a spirit based finish. I think that's what I mean lol.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Steve

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This is probably a bit late but the easiest way to go on a maple neck and fingerboard is are you looking for a vintage neck or just a nice neutral colour, if I'm doing an aged neck I use yellow Rit dye I mix up a weak solution and go over with just one or 2 coats and then use a spray can of clear acrylics lacquer if I want a glossy neck ill just polish it up or if I want a Matt super soft feeling neck I sand it back with 2000grit w&d and leave it like that, looks an feel beautiful

@ king Casey i don't reply much these days unless I can help but this method work especially well on squire necks don't use enamel or Bunnings clear that's good on furniture but not on necks ill try to upload a couple of pics for you it also works well over water slide decals I'm probably done over 50 Strats and Tele necks the same way, I thought Phil would have posted something like that its way easier than using messy enamels which look like crap

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phrozin

This is probably a bit late but the easiest way to go on a maple neck and fingerboard is are you looking for a vintage neck or just a nice neutral colour, if I'm doing an aged neck I use yellow Rit dye I mix up a weak solution and go over with just one or 2 coats and then use a spray can of clear acrylics lacquer if I want a glossy neck ill just polish it up or if I want a Matt super soft feeling neck I sand it back with 2000grit w&d and leave it like that, looks an feel beautiful

@ king Casey i don't reply much these days unless I can help but this method work especially well on squire necks don't use enamel or Bunnings clear that's good on furniture but not on necks ill try to upload a couple of pics for you it also works well over water slide decals I'm probably done over 50 Strats and Tele necks the same way, I thought Phil would have posted something like that its way easier than using messy enamels which look like crap

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Hi Phrozin.
I've used SCA clear in the past but I've wasted a few trips to SuperCheap to find that they have none in stock.
I'm a cheap b@st@rd with finishes.
cheers Mark.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phrozin

This is probably a bit late but the easiest way to go on a maple neck and fingerboard is are you looking for a vintage neck or just a nice neutral colour, if I'm doing an aged neck I use yellow Rit dye I mix up a weak solution and go over with just one or 2 coats and then use a spray can of clear acrylics lacquer if I want a glossy neck ill just polish it up or if I want a Matt super soft feeling neck I sand it back with 2000grit w&d and leave it like that, looks an feel beautiful

@ king Casey i don't reply much these days unless I can help but this method work especially well on squire necks don't use enamel or Bunnings clear that's good on furniture but not on necks ill try to upload a couple of pics for you it also works well over water slide decals I'm probably done over 50 Strats and Tele necks the same way, I thought Phil would have posted something like that its way easier than using messy enamels which look like crap

---

Hi Phrozin.
Actually not to late and any advice is always welcome.

I have colortone stain in lemon yellow and orange so might try a mix of those to see if I can get right look

Decided I'm progably going to finish it with SCA gloss acrylic lacquer. Also good excuse to get more stuff for the beast lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I don't think you'll even have 2mm at the sides with that particular pickguard. Though it depends on the dimensions of the Wilkinson. The less you need to move it forwards, the less work you'll have to do enlarging the pickup rout.

Twodogies, I presume you did buy a left-handed Wilkinson bridge? I'm sure you did, but I just thought I'd ask as the pickup hole will slant the other way compared to a right-handed bridge.

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Arvo Simon.

Yes made sure it is left handed. Sourcing decent lefty parts is hard in Aus. Usually out of stock.Waiting on parts from UK and the US sure slows builds.

Like the Wilkinson bridge. Aus was out of stock so ordered it from UK then found the Aus supplier had back in stock so ordered an allparts bridge from them.

So if anyone wants a new wilkinson lefty bridge for a tele I will have one going cheap lol ..or maybe just have to do another tele build later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

I think it’s more about getting the gap even all the way around the bridge. The opening in the kit pick guard isn’t as wide as that, so a 5mm gap will still look off. I think I ended up with around 3mm all the way around in the build I posted earlier.

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Hi Sonic.

I am actually waiting on a new pickguard so hopefully that will make a bit of difference or if my OCD gets to bad might just try and make a pickguard from scratch and make it a nice fit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twodogies

..or maybe just have to do another tele build later.

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thinline thinline thinline go on, do it thinline

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

thinline thinline thinline go on, do it thinline

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Like your thinking. But as they don't come in a lefty model will have to custom order it.

Good morning

New tele bridge plate arrived. Only a bit of routing to tidy it up.

https://i.imgur.com/begOymj.jpg

Strings pretty close and seems to have reduced gap from plate to pickguard. Looks a bit better. Still waiting on new pickguard so will wait to see how that fits.

Now the fun part drilling ferrule and string through holes. Bought a cheap drill press. got it set up. Runs perfectly. Put nice long drill bit in. Went to see alignment for drilling. Not enough clearance from drill bit to back of drill stand. Shit lol...Maybe should have checked the measurement first before buying lol.

Oh well looks like it's the old power drill....wish me luck lol

Very common, its hard to find a press with a decent distance to the post that isn't enormous and $$$$. I get by with a cheap one and its really hand for lots of aspects of building, even if string throughs are tricky on some body shapes.

Even with a press the bit can wander around a bit meaning you end up with wonky holes. I think some people on here recommend careful measuring and drilling in two stages, front and back. That way at least you can get the spacing nice and tidy on the back of the guitar where you see them.

Definitely one of the more difficult things to get right.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twodogies

Not enough clearance from drill bit to back of drill stand. Shit lol...Maybe should have checked the measurement first before buying lol.

Oh well looks like it's the old power drill....wish me luck lol

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I have exactly the same problem with my baby drill press I've had for years. Good luck and steady hands!

I adjusted my drill press so that it stood on top of the body and drilled through the hole in the middle of the base plate. Slightly more awkward to align but not too bad if you punch an indentation first.

Use the bridge to mark the hole locations in the top. Drill the two outer holes all the way through, and the four middle ones 3/4 through.

Then turn the body over, and use the two outer holes to align with the bridge holes. Mark the 4 inner hole positions and drill those to about 1/2 depth. The rear holes will now be in a nice even line. You may have to drill through the 4 middle holes to get a good path through if there is a slight mismatch because of drilling from both sides.

Then measure the depth of your ferrules and carefully drill the holes or those. You obviously need to be more careful as to depth if you have ferrules that sit flush rather than have the ones with a lip that sit proud. Even so, you don't want the widened section to be too deep otherwise it gets harder to feed the string through easily.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

Very common, its hard to find a press with a decent distance to the post that isn't enormous and $$$$. I get by with a cheap one and its really hand for lots of aspects of building, even if string throughs are tricky on some body shapes.

Even with a press the bit can wander around a bit meaning you end up with wonky holes. I think some people on here recommend careful measuring and drilling in two stages, front and back. That way at least you can get the spacing nice and tidy on the back of the guitar where you see them.

Definitely one of the more difficult things to get right.

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Morning Sonic.
I bought a brad drill bit. Supposedly a little better than a standard drill bit. Apparently the little spike on the end helps straight drilling. We'll see this arvo if true lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon_B

I have exactly the same problem with my baby drill press I've had for years. Good luck and steady hands!

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Nice little drill press but just no good for tele bridge. Will come in handy for other jobs.

Thanks. Might need a bourbon before to calm nerves lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I adjusted my drill press so that it stood on top of the body and drilled through the hole in the middle of the base plate. Slightly more awkward to align but not too bad if you punch an indentation first.

Use the bridge to mark the hole locations in the top. Drill the two outer holes all the way through, and the four middle ones 3/4 through.

Then turn the body over, and use the two outer holes to align with the bridge holes. Mark the 4 inner hole positions and drill those to about 1/2 depth. The rear holes will now be in a nice even line. You may have to drill through the 4 middle holes to get a good path through if there is a slight mismatch because of drilling from both sides.

Then measure the depth of your ferrules and carefully drill the holes or those. You obviously need to be more careful as to depth if you have ferrules that sit flush rather than have the ones with a lip that sit proud. Even so, you don't want the widened section to be too deep otherwise it gets harder to feed the string through easily.

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hey Simon.

Was thinking of adjusting drill press to suit but saw a couple of videos on YouTube about drilling straight holes without a press so might practice a bit and see how that goes before hacking at drill press.

More worried about lining up the forstner bit to drill ferrule holes but think I have found a way to maybe get that right.

Thanks for the tip

I wouldn't use a forsner bit for that. OK if you can drill the ferrule holes first (but then you have top drill all the holes from the rear), but it really is a lot easier to drill them with a standard drill bit. Almost all ferrules have an angled base which makes a standard bit more appropriate. You're far more likely to get wonky holes using a forstner bit if you aren't drilling strait into the wood.