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First time builder, working on a thinline tele to survive this isolation craziness! So far I have done a mock build, and am working on sanding. I have noticed my scale length seems to be a little off, coming in at 650mm instead of 648, and the saddle seems to be a little short but shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Plans
- Cabot's satin stain and varnish (jarrah) for the body
- Danish oil for the neck
Open to feedback!!
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The headstock turned out really well, considering I shaped it by hand with a coping saw!
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Good work, and welcome!
Are you using the combined stain/varnish stuff, or two separate products from Cabot?
The combined stain/varnish. Have done a few test runs on some scrap wood and I think it will turn out pretty well. Fingers crossed...Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Today's update! Have applied the first coat of danish oil to the neck, I suspect I have 5+ coats to go before it gets where I want it to be. Have applied the first coat of stain & varnish to the back and sides. I will probably do another 2-3 coats until I get the darker shade I am going for. This is a stupidly fun hobby!!
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Nice man, looks like you got some flame coming up through the back there. Yes. It is an incredibly stupidly fun game!
The factory did a nice job of matching the grain too. Looks great!
What are your thoughts about upgrading the hardware? Atm I just have the pitbull supplied kit but am considering ordering a new bridge and tuning machines (Gotoh). When I measured out the guitar it seems like the saddles couldn't be extended enough to get the scale length right. Will upgrade the pickups are some point, to either DiMarzio Twang Kings or a Keystone set.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
This long weekend has allowed me to be super productive. Really happy with how the finish turned out! For whatever reason, the top only required two coats, while the back took 5 to get to where I wanted it to be! Still working through the neck finish, which takes a lot longer to dry.
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Whackadoo!
Sorry, still in Bluey mode. But that's looking great. Beautiful grain front and back. The back is matched so well it looks like a single piece of wood.
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What are your thoughts about upgrading the hardware?
Did you go with the chrome hardware or the gold?Quote:
When I measured out the guitar it seems like the saddles couldn't be extended enough to get the scale length right.
Can you tell us what the measurements you have with the bridge in place?
As for a bridge upgrade, I'm not fan of the cast metal saddles. A upgrade to solid steel saddles might be all that's required. Other than that, a bridge plate is a bridge plate IMO (maybe not always, but in this case I think so) and a different bridge will likely not "drop in". Probably require re-drilling at the very least, possibly additional routing to the pickup cavity.
If the existing bridge is indeed not located properly, then you'll need to fill & drill anyway, so much of a muchness.
There have been issues in the past with TL kit bridge positions, but I thought they had improved with the newer production. It may be alright as is, but if we have hard numbers it will be easier to advise you.
I'm not surprised that two different timbers took the stain differently. Ash is a much more open grain timber by comparison to Maple.Quote:
For whatever reason, the top only required two coats, while the back took 5 to get to where I wanted it to be!
It looks great though, and the sunnies are a nice touch!
1. I've gone with the chrome.
2. 325mm from the nut to the 12th. With the Bridgeplate pushed as far as I can towards the neck, and the saddles at full extension, its somewhere around 330mm from the 12th to the saddles. I'm hoping I can fix this issue with longer saddles perhaps?
I have to order some new screws for the bridgeplate as I got a bit over-excited and ruined the heads. At least I was able to get them out!!
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I'm not clear on where you're measurements are starting and ending, so I'll be specific here.Quote:
2. 325mm from the nut to the 12th. With the Bridgeplate pushed as far as I can towards the neck, and the saddles at full extension, its somewhere around 330mm from the 12th to the saddles.
Firstly, you're better off measuring from the nut (from "bridge side" of nut) all the way to the saddles rather than the 1/2 the scale x 2 method.
And when you measure to the saddle, it wants to be to the point where the string "leaves" the saddle (aka break point), not the front of the whole saddle itself. Sorry if you know this already, I'm just trying to be thorough.
If measuring the way I just described, and you can get the E1 (treble) saddle's break point between 648 - 651mm from the nut (with the intonation screw just flush with the saddle slot end) you should be fine to get proper intonation. The E1 is always going to be the closest to the nut) and typically the E6 (bass) is the furthest.
Let me know how you go after double checking using the above method. Dinner's ready!!! Gotta go!
Alright, I measured in this method and the was able to get 650 on the treble E1, with the saddle hanging on by a few threads. Same on the bass side, which leads me to believe I may have actually put the bridge on straight! haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
You'll probably be okay with that. If you do need to go further ahead to get correct intonation, a longer intonation screw should get you there.Quote:
Alright, I measured in this method and the was able to get 650 on the treble E1, with the saddle hanging on by a few threads.
Import guitar intonation adjustment screws a typically M3. (x 20 mm will do)
Edit to add link:
I use stainless steel and get them from these guys: fastenerssuppliers on eBay
They're also located in QLD.
Thanks for your help mate, really appreciate it!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Will let you know how it goes once I actually attach the bridge. Went to bunnings yesterday to get some screws for the bridge plate as I ruined the heads of the supplied ones, and they didn't have anything similar! Will have to contact PBG to see if they can sell me some. Unless I decide to buy a Gotoh bridge, in which case it will come with screws :D
All good.
Check my edit in the previous post #15 for intonation screws. As for bridge screw, yeah, you're not going to find them in a hardware store.
You'll need to get them from a proper luthier/guitar parts store, like: Realparts, AUS Luthier Supplies; Guitar Trade or GuitarAust.
Also, FWIW, I'm also in Bris Vegas if I can ever be of help. Well, not so much atm, but when we get back to "normal" whatever that looks like :rolleyes:
Awesome, I just ordered some intonation screws! Do you know what dimensions the bridgeplate fixing screws are? Sorry, I am useless at this stuff!!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I think I will take your advice and leave the bridgeplate as is for now, but am looking into buying replacement saddles. Do you know whether the stock PBG saddles are 10.5 or 10.8mm?
The PBG saddles are 10.5 (52mm centre to centre) which standard on most import guitar bridges and Fender Mexican stuff.
Here are a couple options for bridge screws: (either will be fine, but option 2 is cheaper postage)
Bridge screws 1
Bridge screws 2
EDIT:
Added 3rd option
Once again, thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I have ordered a set of 6 Gotoh S21 solid steel saddles, along with the bridge mounting screws. Now I am just tossing up whether I want plain chrome machine heads, or get ones with white pearloid buttons to match the pickguard/binding...
Hah! Decisions, decisions... ;)
Alright, I have put it together and am having some pickup issues... The bridge pickup sounds fine, albeit cheap. However, the neck pickup is very muddy/fuzzy. I thought i was having issues with fret buzz, but it was just the pickup... Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this? Cheers.
Not easy to do remotely. Tele neck pickups are known for being quite dull and low-output. The coil is a lot smaller than the bridge pickup or a Strat pickup so low output can be expected, and the capacitance of the grounded metal cover also knocks some of the treble off.
They generally need to be set as high as they can, about 1.5-2mm just below the strings when held down at the top fret. That will beef up the output a bit and also get as much treble from the pickup as possible.
But 'buzz' is a strange one. Have you got a multimeter? If so, you could measure the DC resistance of the pickup. Have the volume and tone controls up fully, select the neck only, plug in a guitar lead and measure the resistance across the tip and screen of the other end of the cable. It should be around 6k ohms, though may be between 5-7k ohms.
It could be down to a bad switch connection giving a high resistance.
If the pickup hasn't been wax potted properly, then the coils can vibrate from loud sound waves, and produce a high pitched scream that doesn't go away when you mute the strings. But that's not really 'buzz'. But such a 'microphonic' pickup will also pick up any taps on the guitar body, far more so than the bridge one (assuming that is OK), and sound really loud if the pickup itself is tapped. Not just a 'clunk' but a real 'THUMP'. So it's worth checking for that a sit takes seconds. If it is, I'd email Adam and request a new neck pickup (unless you now plan to upgrade the pickups to something like Toneriders).
Thanks for the detailed reply Simon. I dont have any of those fancy tools sadly, but I think I may have figured it out. It seems this neck pickup has quite a bit more output compared to the bridge pup and it was feeding back a little... Once I dialled back the volume on the guitar, and the gain on my little amp I was able to get it sounding quite nice. I am an acoustic player so this is all new to me!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
As for upgrading the pups, I am thinking about putting in a set of Keystones! Not that much more than toneriders and by all accounts they are amazing...
In that case, I'd drop the neck pickup a bit to reduce the output. The kit pickups almost always use ceramic magnets, which are a lot stronger than the Alnico V magnets used on the Fender originals, so a higher output can be expected on these (I forgot this when I first replied). It can be a balancing act juggling pickup heights to help get outputs matching and fine-tuning the mixed position sound.
If you're referring to Bill Lawrence Keystone pickups, they are supposed to be very good, but with the current exchange rate and international postage they're about $212AU. The Tonerider sets from PBG are $119 (free postage). I've used the TR Tele pickups and they're very good sounding pickups, especially for the price.Quote:
As for upgrading the pups, I am thinking about putting in a set of Keystones! Not that much more than toneriders and by all accounts they are amazing...
Also, Wilde Pickups (Bill Lawrence) advertise shipping within 2 weeks of ordering (they build to order) but I know people that waited over 2 months with no status updates along the way. Best case would be 4 weeks with production and shipping time, but given the current crisis (particularly in the US) who knows...
I personally cancelled an order in 2015 after waiting 5 weeks with no email replies. They are literally an old fashioned US "Mom & Pop" business (now a Mom & Daughter operation since Bill's passing) so I get it, but I wasn't willing to keep waiting and was annoyed that no one replied to any of my emails (except confirming my order was cancelled).
I'm not saying don't buy them or that they're no good, just thought you should know what you could be getting into.
FWIW, one forum friends that waited 12 weeks, said they were worth the wait. However, patience is not always one of my strongest attributes :o.
I actually emailed them asking for a postage quote and they responded within 24 hours, and they actually have some keystones already in stock so shouldn't take too long. The strength of the AUD is the only thing holding me back at the moment... A friend of mine has them already and swears by them. Will keep thinking about it, now that I've got the stock ones sounding OK. They can keep me going until my birthday in June haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
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Here she is! Almost finished, just waiting on some extra shielding tape. Surprised how quickly this came together.
- Upgraded to Gotoh SG381 Tuners, definitely worth it. Holding tune well, and intonation is good.
- Gotoh S21 solid steel saddles
- Pickups TBA! ;)
- Working on a headstock decal. Will be called "Procrasticaster" as I built this instead of doing my PhD work hahah! Oops.
Will post more photos later of the back, which I think turned out beautifully!
P.s. ignore that the strings are wound the wrong way, I was half asleep haha! Have a set of elixirs on the way so will fix it when they arrive. Unfortunately means my string trees will be in the wrong spot but not the end of the world!
Finally finished. Ended up getting Wilde (Bill Lawrence) Alnico Microcoils. They took forever to get here, but boy were they worth the wait!!
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