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I recently received my IB-1F kit and am having some confusion bout how the barrel output jack is supposed to be mounted/installed into the guitar body. It appears that the only way to secure the jack into place with the nut and washer would be to insert the jack deep into the guitar body, but this would make it impractical to insert an instrument cable. I've never used barrel output jacks or mounted an output jack on a guitar in this way so any help is appreciated.
Hi and welcome.
The barrel fits into the body from the external lower edge of the bass, which should leave a small amount of the thread poking through on the inside to fit the nut and washer. I know some people have found that there isn't much of the barrel poking out, and have had to cut away some wood inside the control cavity to get enough barrel poking out to fit the nut on. I don't know if this is the case with you. The internal end's hidden under the control plate, so any wood removal doesn't need to be the neatest of jobs if your woodworking skills aren't that great.
If you still have doubts, it's best to post some pictures of the holes and any parts you have issues with.
Thanks for the reply. The kit is one of the IB guitars not a bass. The opening for the output jack is on top for the guitar body not the side. The problem I'm having is that I would have to cut away a lot of the wood as the threads from the jack are nowhere close the internal opening when put in place. I've included some photos to illustrate the problem I am having.
https://imgur.com/a/EadB0Jm
I had the same issue and had to pare away close to 25mm of that section around the jack end to get the nut on.
youve also got to do it at an angle perpendicular to the angle of the jack through the body to get the nut to sit flat.
Any advice on what would be the best tool/technique for removing the wood from that area. I have woodworking experience, but I'm not sure what to use in this situation.
On my IB-1Q build I used a Dremel style tool with a square router type bit to remove the excess wood in the control cavity. It was awkward and the bit had to be quite proud of the motorized Dremel so as to access where it needed to go. Several test fits of the socket was needed until a satisfactory surface area for the socket nut was achieved.
The socket is typically fully hidden in the hole when correctly fitted. I had to "clear" the hole on my IB-1Q to allow the socket to sit fully home.
I’d second Marcels post, if you have a dremel type tool that’s probably a good starting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Audsten
I had to do mine with marking knife and chisels. It was.....interesting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b3ab0eb6ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d5cf54832c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b7f8c3131e.jpg
Mine was made slightly easier as I’d already made a custom recessed cover for it which meant I wasn’t chiselling through the full depth of material.
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FW, there's no screw holes in your cavity cover. How do you fix it to the guitar? (was the photo pre-screw hole?)
The little dark spots are inserted neodymium magnets. They have counterparts in the cover. I like the no screw head visible ethos.....just don’t get the relative polarities wrong cause the cover will never go on!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll start using a rotary tool and maybe some wood files. I'll post again if I need anymore help.
I thought that might me the case. And I just noticed how deep the route is for the cover, presumably to accommodate the depth of the magnets. Is the cover plastic or timber? (can't tell from the photo)Quote:
The little dark spots are inserted neodymium magnets. They have counterparts in the cover.
Also, sorry to Audsten for hijacking his thread! Glad you got a plan to remedy the output jack issue!