GR-1SF Archtop Part 1

Hey all, this is my first Kit Build, also my first hollow body, first archtop etc. I've built a few solid bodys from scratch with an eye to one day attempting a hollow body based on this, which I'll tackle one day.
Attachment 33889
My last scratch build was a double cut-away based on a Duesenberg solid. I used all genuine Duesenberg hardware and parts apart from the Schaller roller bridge with adjustable string spread. It was a through body stringing and it played very nicely through my Laney 30W valve amp. I've now cannibalised that guitar to use the hardware on my GR-1SF build and happy that I bought the particular Schaller bridge as the Tune-o-matic type bridge supplied with the kit is patently unsuited for use with a tremolo. I'm intending to also use the electrics from my Doozy build in the GR-1SF too. Completely in the dark whether the components will suit my build. I guess ill have to fill some pot holes or put fake pots in.
So, off I go - intrepidly - to the great unknown.
Cheers
Mike

This is my materials and components list. Items marked * are my modifications.
1. Pit Bull GR-1SF Kit complete.
2. Schaller Roller bridge*
3. Duesenberg Z Locking Tuners*
4. TUSQ Nut*
5. Duesenberg Grand Vintage Humbucker* (Neck)
6. Duesenberg Crunchbucker* (Bridge)
7. CTS 500kOhm Audio Taper Pot*
8. CTS 1Meg Linear Taper Pot*
9. Sprague 0.022mfd & 0.047mfd Orange drop caps*
10. Shielded wire*
11. Switchcraft Gold Mono Jack*
12. Snail Repellent 50mm Copper Shielding Tape*
13. CRL 3-way lever switch*
Use of a particular compnent subject to suitability after testing.
To be continued....
Cheers
Mike

Watching. 🍿

Waiting...

The copper shielding tape won't be much use on this build. It's only of any use where you can create a pretty much sealed enclosure with it. In a hollow body guitar, there's no way to do that. Using screened cables for the longer runs will help, but singles for the short distances is normally fine. But with both pickups being humbuckers, you shouldn't really have any problem with hum (just don't forget to ground the trem).

I've just discovered Pure Tone output jacks. Whilst I've always used Switchcraft jacks before, I'm switching over to these as they are a better jack socket. https://puretonetechnologies.com/pro...tput-jack-gold

All the best with the build.

Thanks for the copper tape tip, Simon. I was wondering if it would be necessary. Will be checking out the Pure tone Jacks.
Cheers
Mike

Ooohhhh yes! Watching![emoji481][emoji1645]


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hmmm. For some reason my pics no longer upload. ??

Attachment 33922
Neck glued in.
Primed 2 coats and sanded

I’m baaack.
Attachment 36999
Onto the wiring after a few months away from it all.
Looking at the alternative wiring diagram, it shows a green Cap at the master tone Pot. My package came with 2 tiny brown Caps but not the green. Does anyone know what capacitance the green cap is and the brown ones? Should I buy one to match the green cap?
Thanks if you can help.

Different caps, different materials etc, but same effect.

The original kit came with two 'green' 0.047uF caps (marked as 473 on the cap). Running them combined in series, as in the diagram, would give you an effective value of ~0.023uF. A single 0.047uF cap gives a darker tone.

Green or brown cap doesn't matter (up to a point) just have a close look at them and see if they are marked as 473(letter) or 223(letter). 473 is 0.047uF, 223 is 0.022uF. If you want a darker tone use a single 0.047uF cap (or two 0.022's in parallel). If you want a less dark tone like an LP, use a single 0.022uF (or like diagram two 0.047's in series).

Make sense?

EDITED:

Weirdbits beat me to it! But we're on the same page!!!

Green or brown doesn't matter. It's the capacitance value (and tolerance) that is important.

People will argue all day long over capacitor material and "tone" (ceramic, paper in oil, poly-film etc). Life is too short.

Are there no numbers on the caps you have?
Those numbers are the value code. Otherwise measure them with a mulitmeter and see what they read.

At the end of the day, tone cap value is really personal preference. .022uf and .047uf are most common, but they be anything above or below or in between depending on what you wish to achieve.

With humbuckers, maybe start with .022uf and see how you like it. If the tone is too dark, try a lower value capacitor instead. If your tone is too bright, try going up in value.

G’day Shedie, where have you been?

Yo Cliff. Been fiddling around in my tiny 3x3 m shed (it’s actually my bedroom but I live in my living room now). The project has been hanging on the wall for 6 months or so, so time to get soldering. I’m going blind my ophthalmologist informs. All sorts of diabetic problems which will see me in the dark in a couple of years. So gotta finish it. I was going to head up far north Q again this winter but my sweet girl is very poorly and can’t travel. Unfortunately. Vet says to enjoy her while I can. Anyway, hope you’re all well up there.
Cheers
Sheddie

I can’t see any numbers but I’m blind as a bat so maybe they’re there. Anyway, I have a supply of .22 and .47 Orange caps so I’ll use one or t’ other of them instead. Thanx for the advice.
Cheers
Mike

Yes thanks Scott. Got it. Now to solder without welding myself to a capacitor and rendering myself incapacitated.
Cheers
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by michaelgard

Yes thanks Scott. Got it. Now to solder without welding myself to a capacitor and rendering myself incapacitated.
Cheers
Mike

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Dad joke. 🤓

More like grandad...:D

Ok. I’m back. I wander past everyday, look at it and think, “will I cut an access hole in the back so I can do all the wiring?”. I’ve decided, yep, it’s the only way to complete the guitar without converting it to splinters out of frustration (a solution I used on a beautiful Ovation Ultra a few years ago when something didn’t go right - don’t ask) which may still happen. Got me buggered how it’s done so I reckon I’ll put the kit cost down to experience and stick with solid bodies from here on.
I’ll report back after I’ve cut the access hatch. I fully expect the thing will end up on the tip.
Have a laugh if youse like.

Update on my darling Missy. I had to have her put to sleep three weeks ago. She couldn’t be a little dog anymore as her arthritis spread everywhere and the steroids just made grossly overweight and she couldn’t pee or poo comfortably. The vets kept her comfortable for an extra 6 months but it was a terrible loss and I’m still in deep mourning. We had over 11 years as constant companions. I made a lovely Huon Pine box for her ashes and she’s at rest without pain beside my bed.
Cheers
Sheddie

Sounds like you did what was best for old Missy. My old companion in my avatar got the sleep needle at the age of 15yo earlier this year.