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Hi folks, long time stalker first time builder.
So I have this JM-1 and I want a chrome pick guard. I can’t find the same style on eBay with pickup cuts in it etc. So I am thinking, chrome spray the Tortoise shell guard I have.
Any advice?
Alternatively, where can I get a chrome pick guard?
Thanks in Advance
Steve
AFIK The pickup arrangement and shape on the JM-1 is unique to that guitar so there won't be one available.
There are a couple of options - spraying might work, but given the nature of guitars and pickguards I'd suspect it would wear through fairly quickly.
I made one out of 3mm aluminum plate for my JM as I wanted to move the bridge pickup closer to the bridge and do away with the single coils.
https://i.imgur.com/qafLI5u.jpg
I elected to keep it a dull finish, but aluminium polishes up very well and you could get a mirror finish pretty easily.
Finally there are a few different chrome effect vinyls and acrylics available. This is basically the same material as regular pick guards, but in a chrome finish.
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/1130632173...YaAuyUEALw_wcB
Or you could cover your existing pickguard with something like this which is a chrome vinyl sticker
https://www.amazon.com.au/15x78Chrom...08998835&psc=1
If it were me I'd probably get the vinyl and put it under neath a clear piece of acrylic to protect it from scratches.
Yes,
I live the alum plate.
How did you cut and finish that? Looks awesome mat.
I like the vinyl under acrylic idea, getting a nice chamfer on the edges may cause that white scratchy scuffing. I also like the idea of a chrome sticker over the original guard.
Thanks Sonic.
I have a few new questions.
Hi guys,
just doing a dry build to see what's what.
Found the neck scale length a few mm out.
Found the neck to bridge, well, I don't know where to begin given the cavity for the bridge has about 10mm play in it.
I found a slight gap in the neck socket of 1 or 2 mm I thought this may need sanding the neck pocket so it sits flush? or just leave it?
Pics attached
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wXtRGaAqr2UnJs6B8
These images show the bridge in its most forward position and the most rear position in being measured form the 12th fret.
Also the small gap in the neck pocket and the measurement on the 12th from the inside face of the nut.
I cut it out with a jigsaw and a fine curve blade (was noisy as) For the pickup holes I drilled through with a 10mm bit first so I could get the jigsaw blade in. Then just filed and sanded it. To get it up to a nice gloss you'd need to sand the whole thing with wet and dry from around 400 grit up to 1500/2000 grit. Then polish it up with some cutting compound and finish with something like brasso or one of the Autosol products you can get at super cheap for polishing mag wheels.
This is a truss rod cover i made for my black cherry build - ended up scuffing it up and dulling it to get some clear to stick, but you could leave it plain polished and just re polish when ever it's looking a bit manky:
https://i.imgur.com/9gOHPpH.jpg
I screwed it to a bit of wood to hold it in place while polishing.
How's life out in St George? When I was at Uni in the 90's I used to travel out there every break to cotton chip. Stayed at the Riverview Hotel every year and got to know the owners really well - used to let us use the kitchen and pour our own beers at the bar. Good times.
Here's my response re scale length from King Casey's thread:
Just take the measurement from the inside of the nut to the saddle (don't worry about going to the 12th and then to the bridge)- you want 648mm - I usually just make sure that the high E sits comfortable at that and all the other strings have adjustment back from that point for intonation. You'll have a two post bridge, take the centre screws out of the receivers and wrap masking tape around them till they fit snugly in the post holes, then you can dummy fit the neck and bridge to check it more accurately. The JM kits are pretty much fine for scale length and the post holes a pre drilled anyway. It's only on kits like the TL where you have to drill the bridge holes, or the set neck kits where the neck needs to be accurately located for glueing that your really need to be super careful about scale length. Certainly worth checking, but I'm sure its fine.
The neck should fit a bit more snugly in than that. You might need to take a small amount off each side to get it to fit in all the way. Just do a little bit at a time and creep up on it. Also if you've just received the kit, give it a few days to adjust to your temp and humidity, it might settle down and be fine after that.
Thanks Sonic,
Yeah polish with clear looks fine there, my god that is a long truss rod cover.
I just ordered an A3 size slice of acrylic mirror finish off ebay.
I got a quote to laser cut it, $240+gst, so I am going to cut it on my band saw and polish it with some 1200 wet and dry.
The post holes weren’t pre-drilled in my JM-1 so they’re sending me a new body.
Till then, I am going to investigate some paint.
I was going to grab some “squirt” primer and paint from Bunnings, but I’m not to sure about it.
The St George is relatively quiet, not much going on. We’re near the river it’s very much just a village on a point.
Yeah the TRC was to go the entire length of the head stock like this:
https://i.imgur.com/L5DUhoj.jpg
In that first pic it isn't cleared, that's just polished aluminum on it's own, but I couldn't get the clear to stick to it, so scuffed it up a bit.
Yikes on the laser cutting cost. That seems extreme, I guess if that includes them creating the files it's not too bad....
Best approach is to make a template from cardboard or something the get the fitment right before you start cutting the acrylic. Also you will need sharp drill bits to drill the holes as it's quite easy to put cracks in it if you put too much pressure on when drilling, but with a bit of care you should end up with a nice pickguard.
I see re the lack of bridge holes, that's unfortunate.
I'm not sure what kind of a product 'squirt' is - I'd recommend automotive acrylic lacquer if you want to do a solid finish - Duplicolour have a huge range at Supercheap/Autobarn. For natural wood finishes I like Cabots Polyurethane from Bunnings.
I wouldn't use any primer that isn't part of the same range (not just same manufacturer) of paint that you are using for the colour and clear coats. So if you start with the White Knight Squirts range, then use it throughout. But being described as 'Enamel', I'm not sure how good it will be as a finish on a guitar or how well it will take to rubbing down and polishing.
Trouble with the Bunnings is that there isn't much of a colour range to select from.
Even though I've fallen victim to mixing various brands, some of it has paid off.
I've used the cheapest 'undercoat' that Bunnings offer (not grey but white).
Colour that I last tried was 'Montana Gold' range from here http://www.unionheights.com.au/
Has a few advantages over the enamel as it's aimed at Grafitti artists (fast drying, opaque, low pressure)
It was the yellow on the JM-1.
I used 'British Paints' 'Spray Easy' clear gloss (Bunnings) over the top.
It was about $8.50 per can so I used 2 of them.
So far so good.
cheers, Mark.
If you plan on mixing paints, please try on a piece of scrap wood first. If you do find they react, you don't want to have something reactive sinking into the guitar and that you then need to sand 1mm or so off the body to remove.
And 'reaction' may not be a near-immediate bubbling (though that can happen) but could result in the finish never hardening properly, which takes a long while to realise (this has happened to me in the past).
Thanks for the tips guys, I was watching a tutorial on YouTube and this guys was using water based multisurface craft paints. They had a pretty good finish, but his prep as a luthier was diabolical, perfectionist. Plus he had some massive tin of clear coat that took like 9 days to cure as it was also a water based compatible product.
I liked this because I can airbrush a burst, feathering the edges.
My alternative is to go with a very simple single colour, black.
Or like a black wash. I am still waiting to see if my scratch plate turns out.
My father in law has a laser cutter (who knew) I just made the file for his cutter, he will cut some 5mm MDF first before my material arrives and then he will give that a shot, because I am getting an A 3 piece, he gets 2 shots at it.
It's really best to now start a proper build diary, rather than keep asking further questions in this intro section.