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Hey there folks, and welcome to my build diary.
This build I intend to be my best foray into guitar making yet.
I'm building an IB-1 kit which will see me enter the world of Wudtone for the first time (DB, are you seeing this ;) ) which will hopefully streamline my build process.
Attached are a few photos of the kit in its raw form, and I'll keep you all updated as I go.
Let's have some fun! :D
Cheers,
Brodie
Adelaide Student, Kangaroo Island Guitar Builder.
(PS. Feel free to check out my MB-1 build I am completing concurrently with this one)
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...1-P4110088.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...6-P4110092.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...8-P4110096.JPG
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Besides the few rough edges you scored a great kit there.
That inlay, wow. And the maple top beautifully consistent. What a score.
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Cool. This is one of the more uncommon, but very attractive kits and you have got yourself a lovely top. I just finished mine and let me tell you it was an effort. Be prepared, you will have to make a few modifications. Have a read through my build diary and you will get an idea of what's in store.http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...iewtopic&t=638
That inlay looks a lot cleaner than mine was, but a little 1200 sandpaper and steel wool polish and you will bring out the colour and the definition in that sweet little dragon. Trust me, worth the effort.
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nice looking kit Brodie, bit of sanding will sort out those rough edges. That flame top is a winner, worth popping the grain with a coat of black stain then sand it back will make the flames pop more. What colour stain you got planned for the top ?
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Howdy all.
@DanMade: I was super excited when I unwrapped the body to find that maple underneath. Simply breathtaking I reckon, so hopefully I can do it justice.
@PabloPepper: Thanks mate. I'd looked through your diary prior to purchasing, and the way yours was progressing was part of my inspiration for buying. Definitely got to put the man hours into that fretboard to make it the best I possibly can. Any suggestions you can offer for doing so would be much appreciated. :)
@Wokka: I'm delving into the world of Wudtone for this one, because of the awesome results I have seen on here. I've loved the Azure Lagoon colour ever since I saw it so I am definitely going with that for the maple top. I always intended to pop the grain, and after consultation with a fine gentleman named Dingo Bass I have decided to go with either Black Magic Woman or Dark Onyx (whichever one is more black) as a first coat, sand it back, then Az Lag on top. As for the back and sides, I want them dark. So, again after consultation with the Wudtone Master, I am going with a Feast Watson stain base coat, with the remainder of my BMW or DO Wudtone on top. Hoping it will turn out beautifully. :)
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sounds good Brodie, I'd recommend to pop the grain with the feast watson prooftint black stain will be darker than both dark onyx and BMW, thats if you want the flames really dark.
This is 2 coats of the FW on a PRS flame maple top and the results after rubbing it back and colour coats.
You won't get that depth with DO or BMW
Food for thought anyway
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...1-1st-coat.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...9-20.36.43.jpg
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Look out! Someone has done their homework! I like you.
Wudtone is designed to be applied to bare wood. I don't think it's gonna work with the feast watson. Black magic woman is notorious for being the most most difficult to get even, that's why I used dark onyx. It ended up pretty black on the back, but still quite translucent. I'll have some more pics up in a few days so you can see what I mean.
You've certainly got the right attitude, dude. Read up and don't be shy about asking questions. There are plenty of guys here happy to help. :) Oh, and flattery will get you everywhere. Thanks!
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@Wokka: Thanks for the suggestion mate. I think that might be a little too dark for what I'm looking for, but I will definitely use Feast Watson on the back for a more solid black. It's good to know that Wudtone works on top of FW as well. As a side note, that flamed PRS looks gorgeous.
@Pablo: Yay! Someone likes me. :D
Having worked with Dark Onyx, do you think it would provide a nice base for grain popping the maple top, without being too black and detracting from the Azure Lagoon too much?
Also, I saw I picture of your RC-4 neck next to your IB-1 neck, and you made that inlay shine like nothing I have ever seen! What is the secret to your success there, because I want mine to be just as good as that. Cheers. :)
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I think dark onyx is perfect as a contrast to the azure, but it might not be as dark as you want for the back. I only did two coats of the deep colour coat on the back, but it lightened with the clear to a slate Grey. I guess, just use lots of the deep colour coat is what i'm saying.
My inlay had blobs of glue all over it and the rosewood, so it started out as just trying to clean that mess up, but I started with 400 sandpaper and a lot of time. After I had removed all the excess glue I went to 800, then 1200 and then steel wool. It felt smooth, looked heaps better, so I was happy. Grabbed the trusty Bigbends fretboard juice and oiled the fretboard to clean it up and my eyes nearly popped out of my head. The colours and the different inlay materials all stood out like crazy. It looks as though you might get away with starting at 1200.
Also, I used sandpaper with my fingers, but I read Gavin saying use a paddle pop stick to wrap the sandpaper around to get in between the frets. Good advice that.
