Winter Project #4

Well, the leaves are starting to turn up in the Northern Hemi, and Winter Project #4 arrived today, an XBF-1. Upon preliminary inspection everything looks good. Neck appears straight, no obvious flaws in the body. Grover tuners included. Can't do a mock build yet, as the neck does not slide down into the pocket. A little work required. Fretboard is light, and I'd have preferred rosewood, but I may try a darker stain there. Probably shooting for a solid color and glossy finish on the body. Anybody got a favorite color (or colour)?
Questions - one serious, one asking opinions. The nut on this unit is a new device to me. It consists of two grooved plastic ridges about half an inch apart. I'll post a photo when I can get my daughter to take one. Is this a good type of nut, or should I scrap it and get bone or Graphtec or something?
Opinion, showing my pedestrian amateurism. I am not looking for a specific sound. My builds all play well and sound fine for my purposes with the stock PBG pups and pots. IYO, is there any particular advantage for a plodder like me to cough up for Tonerider or Seymour Duncan, or some such? Thanks. Good to be back on the forum.

Welcome back XP Rider.

Thanks, Trevor. Saw a post the other day which showed a picture of Confucius. And it read, "Steal a man's wallet and he will be poor for a week. Teach a man music, and how to buy instruments, and he will be poor his whole life." Close to home, huh?

Haha - that is great, and True.

The XBF-1 should have a Floyd Rose and a locking nut, unless you’ve ordered a special without it (or bought a special offer with no locking nut). If so, the two plastic strips are probably to fill the gap where the locking nut went.

The ‘strip’ by the fretboard should then be a standard nut. You don’t want the strings in contact with the second strip behind that at all because of the additional friction.

If you are going the Floyd + locking tuners route, then the nut needs to be as friction free as possible. Standard kit plastic won’t cut it, but it all depends on just what’s fitted there as to what a good replacement would be.

So a photo is a necessity here to see what you have got.

Well, travel and various distractions have gotten in the way, but I am trying again. Mock build looks OK, after widening the neck pocket a hair. (Photos attached) Now working on the fretboard and neck. I am considering staining the fretboard, as it is not the rosewood I would have preferred. Any thoughts?
I think I have made some sense of the Floyd Rose, which is a different critter, but it appears that there will be some space around and under the bridge. Should it be stained or painted same as the body? That is my guess.
Simon, I did not get a close-up of the nut, but I will get one and hope you will make suggestions. Thanks. Attachment 43758Attachment 43759

Here are photos of the locking nut, which is what had me puzzled. It appears to be a pot metal. Is the stock PBG nut adequate, or would I be wise to upgrade? This will likely never be a gigging guitar, just another one in the collection. Have seen a T-shirt that read, "It's not hoarding if it's guitars." Attachment 43776Attachment 43777

That’s the correct nut to go with the locking trem, but you should also have three (almost square) string clamping plates and associated bolts.

Got 'em, Simon. Thanks. I'm working on the fretboard and neck for now.

Well, another long pause, this time caused by shoulder surgery. But I am working back, and doing what I can as a one-armed man.

Like many of us, I watch about a hundred videos. One guy said he'd gotten the best neck finish he'd ever achieved using boiled linseed oil. Hey! Cheap, convenient, and there is half a gallon in my garage. So, I sanded and stained with Old Masters Wiping Stain, maple flavor. Then the linseed oil, and set aside for 3 days. It was drying kind of bubbly, but I'm sure more than one coat would be needed. The video said wet sand with 1500 grit using mineral spirits with a splash of linseed. Even sanding lightly and that fine, I was starting to sand the stain off the headstock edges. And, although it seems I would have gotten a very nice feel eventually, after almost 3 weeks the BLO has not completely cured. So, time to sand back, touch up the stain, and return to TruOil.

Have sanded the body and slightly rounded the upper outside edge where the arm will rest. Two coats of Timbermate, sanding in between. I'm going to try something new. Over a black basecoat, Rustoleum Colorshift paint, Purple Sunrise. We'll see.