Yeah but normally the screws come through the control plate and screw into the switch - it doesn't need to mount in the wood at all, you just need to add the two screw holes.
Printable View
Yeah but normally the screws come through the control plate and screw into the switch - it doesn't need to mount in the wood at all, you just need to add the two screw holes.
I'd thin it a bit from inside, then as Sonic said, drill the mounting screw holes right through, use some nice stainless screws and washers and it will look OK.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1d25f0119a.jpg
Went down the routing route as my friend got a new trim router...had to test it out. So tele control plate on top now and modified scratchplate
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...342aecf02f.jpg
My scale length seems to be out a bit. Would this make much of a difference when playing high?
Not sure how I stuffed this up, was certain I checked before I finished.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0880954049.jpg
My scale length seems to be out a bit. Would this make much of a difference when playing high?
Not sure how I stuffed this up, was certain I checked before I finished.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b46a236e18.jpg
Is it 24.75" scale as that translates into 628.65 mm or about 309.33 from 12th fret to high E bridge saddle?
25.5" scale is 647.7 mm which tends to suggest you may have a shorter G scale happening and therefore not too far off.
Still best to measure full scale length from inner side of nut just to be sure.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Some progress with the build. Put the neck on and intonation seems fine. I read on another diary yesterday people obsessing with measuring from inside the nut to 12th, then 12th to bridge instead of the full nut to high E bridge saddle. I now 2nd this advice! A lot of worry for nothing
The neck wasn’t the tightest fit but I was happy enough with alignment etc so screwed it in.
This was also the first time I tired a different wiring system, the tone pot is push pull and so I can change from double humbuckers to single coils, definitely worth it, I’m surprised how good they sound. It took well over 2 hours for me to do and I’m not great at soldering.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8907da3cf2.jpg
I put the bigsby on and some flats but it needs a good proper setup. It’s playable though and sounds great, dead happy with it.
I got the dingotone bone nut in but it still needs sanded down a little more. The tusq bridge saddles are on too, I haven’t played them in yet.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4b0fbcfc00.jpg
Never upgraded tuners before but the Grover’s seem to be great so far. Really smooth
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd98e1531f.jpg
I do have one question, where the hell do I put the string trees on this upside down headstock!? I assume somewhere around the B tuner back from the nut on the low E and A strings as they don’t have much of an angle with the nut? Another tree on the D and G string?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a7678edd32.jpg
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That is a beaut FS. Really lovely work, well done!
This is cool as, what a great looking guitar. String trees might not be necessary? Where you have that one in the pic looks about right to me, but someone else may know better.