So I found these which are exactly what I'm after but unfortunately only in very plain (ugly) coloured plastics. Good to know they're there though. At the least they might act as a good template.
http://www.guitarfetish.com/Humbucke...RS_p_4351.html
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So I found these which are exactly what I'm after but unfortunately only in very plain (ugly) coloured plastics. Good to know they're there though. At the least they might act as a good template.
http://www.guitarfetish.com/Humbucke...RS_p_4351.html
Hi Sarge, the white one might be ok as that would match the binding but suggest having a look at these mirror ones....Pablopepper who is based in Brisvegas might be able to make a custom one for you?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-Ply-11-...wAAOSwgQ9VvHBI
Attachment 19943
So today may go down as one of those "learning experiences". I've just applied the grain filler using a fair bit lighter blue than what Drummerdude experimented with for me (thanks again, hope you're having a good holiday). I'm currently letting it dry but seems to be turning quite a white colour. Will sand back and post some pictures of the process.
Thanks Waz. Someone else on Facebook suggested the mirror pick guards. I was kinda hoping to get the chrome option (if it exists or if I go so far to make one) engraved to fancy it up a little bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
So I'm finally getting back into this build. Is there a reference page somewhere in the forum regarding where/when to use Tru-oil vs Danish oil vs Tung oil? Both on body and on neck.
Also are there any particular issues with staining a maple neck at all? Have really come to like the look of roasted maple necks and would like to have a crack at replicating that look.
Bumping to top of forum.
For the oil finishes, you can use any of those after any colouring/stain coats has gone on and cured/set. Be aware that your first coat of finishing oil will have a tendency to lift your stains, so you need to brush or dab on the first coats, subsequent coats should be fine to rag on.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsergeant
with the danish oil, make sure you set your rags out flat to dry off if you leave them balled up The is (apparently) a fire hazard leaving them balled up or tossed in a waste bin.
Staining maple can be encaustic it is dense and hard. Advice I have seen in other threads is that you should stop sanding at 180/220 grit prior to staining to give the stain some tooth to bind to. Pre treating with tea is also a method to help colours bind better, but you’d want to test that on scrap before or on an area that is not obvious (bottom of neck heel) to make sure it is going to give you the effect you’re after.
hope this helps out
I recently stained a neck (first build) and found the stain was taken up unevenly over the surface. I did a lot of touching up to get an effect I was happy with, even though it wasn’t what I was originally aiming for. I guess you can expect issues of working with a natural product.
Hi Sarge, out of 6 builds I have stained 5 necks with varying results.
Best not to do much sanding if any at all as the rock maple just closes up and refuses to absorb stain if you do too much work smoothing things off.
On build 5 I did the Tea staining and it helped lift colour of the grain by about 3% - 5% and seem to think coffee may add more colour. Best to experiment on some scrap timber and also allow the Tea or Coffee solutions to brew and ferment for about a week. I used 10 tea bags in one small coffee cup and let that sit until it went cold, then placed in a jar and left to fester for 7 days.
Roasted maple does look good but not sure how you would DIY that without incurring a few dramas.
The proper timber roasting is none in a no oxygen environment (so probably just nitrogen) to stop it burning. You won't get quite the same results putting the wood in your domestic oven.