Yeah Kick, I'll do that when the new pickups arrive.
In the meantime I'll add a picture to the gallery of the height difference between the bridge pickup rings.
http://imgur.com/cdO4GTx
Printable View
Yeah Kick, I'll do that when the new pickups arrive.
In the meantime I'll add a picture to the gallery of the height difference between the bridge pickup rings.
http://imgur.com/cdO4GTx
The ring height is only going to be a problem if it's so high the strings catch on it. I've got guitars where the pickup rings are quite high and so the pickups are flush with the rings. They look and play OK (and you are normally only going to see this yourself).
You don't want to raise the action just because your pickup rings are well-endowed in the vertical stakes, so if they are too high, you may have to spend some time sanding them down. Hopefully the bottoms are already curved and the curves fit the curve of the guitar top. Which means you may have to put some sandpaper on the top of the guitar and sand them down on that, so that the curve still matches that of the guitar.
From that picture, I don't think you should have a problem.
Sounds good. Guess we'll find out when I start setting it up. Cheers everyone.
Bought a bone nut, assumed incorrectly that it'd have the nut pre-filed down to just install like the plastic one that came with the kit.
Do I have to bite the expensive bullet and buy a set of nut files?
The high E is almost so small the gap cant be seen.
I would say yes, because once you've got a set, then it makes any nut work so much easier. But the good files are expensive. I bought this Hosco set http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hosco-Gaug...-/322501802089 and they are very good, plus they do cover the standard range of electric and acoustic guitar string sizes.
You can get cheaper double-edged sets of three files; but having a V-profile, they do give you slots that are quite wide at the top. The single sized files have straight sides.
I did previously have a much cheaper set of two-sided V-files that were identical to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guitar-Pla...-/360627194194
Those ones will certainly cut workable slots, but once you start working on more than a couple of nuts, then the expense of a good set becomes more bearable. I seem to now set up all my friends guitars, so the investment was worthwhile.
And because you have them, you then can justify building more guitars to make use of them. :D
I was hoping to avoid this, I'm already addicted...Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Quick question; if I can get six separately for 30-50 less than I can get http://luthierssupplies.com.au/produ...oducts_id=2575 a set of 8, is that a good idea for me? If so, which ones should I get? Matching the gauges of strings I use?
Or is it better to just cop it and get the bigger set, even if it's going to be a one time use?
I think you'll find them useful in setting up any other guitars you may have. If you go for 6 files, then get them to match the string gauges you normally use. You can always buy other files singly to spread the cost if you ever change string gauge, want to adjust an acoustic (with thicker strings), or swap to say light top/heavy bottom sets etc.
For true one time use, you'd be better off money-wise getting the guitar set-up and the slots filed by a local luthier/guitar tech - if you can find a good one near you. Never trust one that says they'll do a set-up while you wait. It's almost certain that they'll want to adjust the truss-rod; and that requires an overnight settling period and a next day check that all is still well.
Simon, you're right. I do want to do this myself and only take it to a tech if it needs professional help at the end, so I guess I have to pay a little for the privilege. That's okay. I've bought a set and am waiting for them in the mail.
I run light top/heavy bottom strings on all my guitars, incidentally.
If one of the files doesn't match the gauge exactly, do i go one smaller and work the slot outwards or do I go one bigger and file down?
Cheers.
I just go one bigger. You don't want the string too tight in the slot as it will bind and stick when tuning. There are also the string thickness tolerances to consider. I don't think anyone makes files that correspond to every single string thickness available, so you just cut a slot that's the same width or just slightly bigger than your target string sizes. You'll still want to run some fine grit sandpaper through the slot after filing. I normally use 800 and then 1200.
I then file the nut down so that the slots aren't too deep, and file the ends of the nut and the headstock side edge over so that they aren't sharp, then use sandpaper and then Micromesh to really smooth it off and get it looking polished.