Change rags after every coat to avoid build up of crud getting transferred to the next coat.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Printable View
Change rags after every coat to avoid build up of crud getting transferred to the next coat.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Oh wow really - thanks. That’s going to be a fair few rags. I’m going to need to buy a few new T-shirt’s!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's shaping up nicely! The burst is a whole other level with the clear on.
The sides may have needed a bit more grain filler but end grain and side grain can be tricky, I don't think there's any going back now. Hopefully it will smooth out with subsequent coats and sanding.
My only other advice is you might want to re-evaluate your hanging system. That wire of wire looks a bit precarious. I'd hate to read a post about how all your hard work slipped off and crashed to the concrete floor!
It could be the angle of the photo, but it looks like the short part of the "L" is sloping away from the body.
Thanks Mc - yeah I think it’s progressing well, and you’re right there’s no turning back now.
No doubt I’ll be able to see areas that I can improve as I go through the process - but I can learn for the next one.
Don’t worry - I’m super paranoid about it crashing down off the hook - it’s definitely pointing upwards.
Thank you so much for all your help and advice!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm eight coats in now and still I'm pleased with how it's building. There's no sign of any grain texture in the surface but I'm getting a few lumps and bumps.
Bad news is with my eagerness to flatten it out between each coat I've gone through some of the black at the edges, so it looks a little light in places :(
Something like this was bound to happen so I'm looking at it as part of the learning process. I'm going to keep going and make all the mistakes rather now than starting again. If I feel the need, I’ll refinish using everything I've learnt. But more than likely I'll want to keep it this way as a reminder of the journey #sentimentalfool. Anyway, it’s given it a kind of relic look.
I don’t really have an idea about how glossy is glossy enough. I’ve seen some cool looking sheeny guitars (highway one strat) and some beautiful glassy gloss guitars (anything PRS). Right now, after eight coats without any finish sanding/polishing, I’d call it a “decent sheen”. I quite like the thinness of it.
I’m thinking the next coat I’ll apply with a sanding pad to try to remove some of the lumps, rather than dry sanding before coating. I guess I need enough coats to be able to wet sand and buff without going through the poly? How will I know when I have enough coats?
In other news I think I’m getting use the fumes…. beepbeep
This is why don't do any sanding until after 6-8 coats and primarily very light spot sanding (like lump removal).Quote:
Bad news is with my eagerness to flatten it out between each coat I've gone through some of the black at the edges, so it looks a little light in places
As to gloss level, that's entirely up to you. No right or wrong there. However, if a high gloss is your goal, many many more coats will be required. 25+. Some go up to 50... depends on your level of patience as well as level of gloss you're after.
FWIW, I have never wet sanded below 24 coats (with either wipe-on poly or tru oil). Some do the "wet sanding with poly or tru oil" method during the finishing process, but I have only done it as a means of grain filling. There there have definitely been some nice looking finishes achieved that way.
As we know, many paths to the same destination...
Agree with McCreed on needing minimum 6-8 coats before any sanding. Usually each additional coat can cover areas that didn't look so good and these tend to even out after several applications.
50 mm x 50 mm square of T shirt material is generally as big as you need to use, so unless you are a small person, one T shirt should do plenty of guitars.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Thanks guys - yeah I realised it was too early to sand soon as I'd noticed it. So I haven't been back with the sand paper since. Given what you've said I'll just keep going and hope that it evens out.
I saw a vid that says you should wipe off the excess - I thought this might be the cause of the lumps. But I'm having trouble doing that before it's too dry and leaves drag marks. I end up putting more back on to fix it.
Of course I'm refining my process with each coat - but putting just a smidge on the rag is enough to easily cover the top. I'm using the excess to the cover sides. I only have to go to the back to the pot cover the back and then it's really easy to overload the rag and end up with runs or drags when I hang it up.
After your last post I took the scissors to my rags and chopped them down to about that - I think have plenty to see me through.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I'll post some pics later today of the progress.
One thing that struck me - I should be poly'ing at least five bodies at a time - it would be way more efficient! But I'm not sure I can plan my builds that far ahead.
Forget about that if your just dipping your rag in or applying poly/tru oil to the rag. Applying it this way you should never get "excess".Quote:
I saw a vid that says you should wipe off the excess - I thought this might be the cause of the lumps. But I'm having trouble doing that before it's too dry and leaves drag marks. I end up putting more back on to fix it.
However, if the poly is drying before you can even touch it up, I'd suggest you're not wetting the rag/pad enough.
The majority of times I hear the "wipe off the excess" phrase used is by guys that are putting way too much on in the first place.
These guys that slather it on like that are doing it wrong IMO.
The way I make my "pad" for applicating is this: (I have expalined this here before, and I learnt if from others before me)
Start with a clean piece of cotton (t-shirt or similar - I only use white but that's up to you) cut it into a 125±mm square.
Fold 2 cut edges into the middle.
Fold the other two cut edges into the middle of that (now it's back to a smaller square).
Fold at the middle where all the cut edges meet.
Now your left with a rectangle.
Fold the two short ends of that triangle together.
Now you have small square(-ish) pad with no cut edges exposed. This will eliminate any frayed cotton from the cut fabric making its way into your finish.
Hold the pad at the top where all the folded edges come together and use the bottom (single folded) edge like the bristles of a paint brush. There is enough material in the pad to hold enough poly/tru oil so you can work it without excess or too little.
I also work it in straight lines (like painting) but of course guitars are not all straight lines, so common sense also needs applying. The point is, not a circular motion.
The rag folding thing may sound convoluted, but it's very simple.
Of course you can cut your initial square larger or smaller if you want, but the 125mm (5") is what works for me.
Thanks Mc, just added the next coat using your "pad" approach and it is much better.
I'll post pics tonight before today's final coat.