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Attachment 25150Attachment 25151
All wired up, just need a good set of strings put on tomorrow night and a final polish up. Wiring ive done the neck pickup 250k vol pot with 500k tone pot and cap is what came with the kit. Bridge pickup 500k vol only.
Sounds ok through the yamaha thr, but only my grs sounds good thruigh it, will give it run through the marshal amp tomorrow arvo and see how it sounds. Only upgrade are the bridge nut and 250k vol pot, the rest is all stock kit
Attachment 25186 restring tonight and glue the nut in couldn't resist a comparison photo with an LP this guitar is tiny but suprisingly sounds really good with the stock pickups i cant really fault it. The band has got its first gig in 12 months tomorrow night so all 4 pitbull builds are going to get a few wacks with a pick. I must say im not a fan of the fake wood fretboard it doesn't affect the neck or the playability it just doesnt feel as nice as real timber
Top job Barnsley, I love that timber look,good luck with gig mate.
I've been sanding my Blackwood fingerboards nice and smooth. Makes it feel more like ebony.
Attachment 25633 not good the action is way to hight and the neck is flexing will playing
Heavens! Does that mean the glued heel joint is coming away?
Seems to be i can move the neck and see it moving
Hmm, I wonder the best way to fix that. Might you have got some finish on the neck pocket, causing it to not adhere correctly? Can you get it out without damaging it?
I guess ive got to try and get it of with out any damage ive heard a knife heated with steam might work.
Open to sugestions and some help
Titebond? Heat should do it. You can try heating a pallet knife on a hot iron and slipping it in down the sides and underneath, a bit at a time, but if the sides are too tight to get one in, then steaming over a pad of boiling water should do it. The steam is just a method of getting heat to the glue. I'd tape off as much of the finish as you can around the joint.
I'd suggest using two clamps next time, one for the tongue and one for the end of the neck. Remove as much of the old glue as you can. There's not a huge amount of neck/body contact area on those kits, so every bit needs to be a good tight fit. If there's any looseness on the sides of the pocket, then I'd stick some veneer on one side to make it tighter.
With the neck off, it might be worth getting some carbon paper, sticking it at the bottom of the pocket, then clamping it tight. Points of contact will leave a mark, points not contacting won't. You should have a mark all over the base of the neck, but if it's patchy, then you can try sanding down the high areas (the ones with carbon print on), and repeat until you get a nice even contact area all over the bottom of the neck.