PSH-1 Build

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

You'll find the new saddle tips forwards on the posts. I used some locking post studs on mine to keep it as flat as possible, but it will still tilt slightly. Which then means that the strings have no break angle on the low saddles and is why I swapped the saddles over from the kit ridge top the new one. It's not a 100% perfect fit, but with strings on they felt solid enough.

And try not to have the two bridge positioning screws that stick out the rear screwed in at all if you can help it. There should be more than enough adjustment in the saddles so you won't need the bridge pulled back further at all. They make the bridge even more wobbly and less connected to the posts when used. I think I removed the screws completely. They seem to be a hangover kept from early days with just the stop bar or fixed intonation bridges.

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Thanks for the advice Simon, will definitely factor them in when I reach those stages. I do see those bridge positioning screws cause the tilting in the bridge.

If only the bridge pieces in the Musiclily bridge were even 1mm higher it would be a super bit of kit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Simon Barden

You'll find the new saddle tips forwards on the posts. I used some locking post studs on mine to keep it as flat as possible, but it will still tilt slightly. Which then means that the strings have no break angle on the low saddles and is why I swapped the saddles over from the kit ridge top the new one. It's not a 100% perfect fit, but with strings on they felt solid enough.

And try not to have the two bridge positioning screws that stick out the rear screwed in at all if you can help it. There should be more than enough adjustment in the saddles so you won't need the bridge pulled back further at all. They make the bridge even more wobbly and less connected to the posts when used. I think I removed the screws completely. They seem to be a hangover kept from early days with just the stop bar or fixed intonation bridges.

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Simon is this what you mean when talking about locking post studs

KAISH Guitar Locking Tailpiece Mounting Studs Locking Stop Bar Posts Wraparound Bridge Locking Posts Chrome https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07WDB6...H9GPQS1K?psc=1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, just that sort of thing. I used the Tone Pros version because I was running out of time to finish the guitar (it was a present to a friend) and I could get those quickest, with a 2-3 week wait for the cheaper versions.

Hi Guys, Got my new warparound bridge and the action has now come down a lot. With the shim in place the strings were hitting the frets, so have removed the shim, and action looks good to me..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9210cb7c3e.jpg
Top photo, new bridge with no shim, second photo with shim and original bridge, bottom no shim original bridge. Doesn’t look like I need a shim now?

Better photo

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...eaa7568af6.jpg

The action is still higher in the second picture than I’d use myself. You could sand the shim a little, but I’d have it so that I could always set the action lower if I wanted to, rather than be unable to lower the bridge any further as it’s already on the body. Full string tension will pull the rear of the bridge forwards, even with locking studs, which angles the bridge and raises the string height slightly. IMO it’s better to have the bridge 2mm off the body and then be able to adjust to any desired action.

I agree with Simon. I'd rather have my starting point too low and the ability to raise the action, than the other way around.

Hi Simone, MCreed

will do, I’ll place the Shim and lockdown the neck properly and check the action, will then sand down the shim accordingly. I’ve also ordered those locking nuts for the bridge…[emoji3]arriving in Feb sometime though [emoji52]

Thanks again for all the guidance guys, much appreciated!

If you can get the strings just touching the frets at minimum height, you should be fine.

Also, your height comparison pics have all been on the bass side. You’ll want a lower action on the treble side and there is probably a very slight neck twist. Not enough to affect playing but it can lead to an imbalance in action heights between the treble and bass sides with the bridge fully lowered, so check both sides of the neck.