Yamatji - LPM-1E

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Darryl, Andy40 seems to be the best one to answer your questions as he has had the best results with using DT.

From personal experience you need to leave it sit for a number of weeks to fully cure before attempting any final polishing. Good to see no humidity related issues on yours as that is a bit of a curse in sub tropical parts on this side of the country.

When you get around to doing the final polish your choices will be determined by how shiny you want it. Not so shiny.....DT Wax may be the answer but be prepared for a full on workout buffing that stuff up to some sort of a shine.

These products can be bought at Super Cheap and do a really good job after lots of wet sanding, particularly with Acrylic & Tru Oil top coats....
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Yeah cool. Thanks for that. I don't know what the Dingotone finishing oil is ... If it's True-Oil or similar, then I imagine there'd be no problems with using the products you suggested. I may have to touch base with Dingobass and clarify. It does dry with a nice sheen as it is so I just want to enhance the natural shine without damaging the finish.

Yeah, best to contact DB direct as it is nothing like Tru Oil (swear words to DB) and a bit delicate in the curing stage.

Just had a thought too regarding my hardware: It's black and has a coating on it. Will that present any earthing issues? Does it still earth well through the coating, or will I need to remove the coating from contact points to increase conductivity?

Hi Darryl, if the outside of the bridge posts are coated in black it wouldn't hurt to get a wire brush and scrub some paint off so the earth wire touches bare metal. Just be careful not to take paint off the top part that is visible

Wow, colour combo looks awesome, nice job

Shiny!

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looks excellent Darryl, what sort of clear have you used - tru oil ? how many coats is that ?

don't rush the coats, you should be allowing plenty of curing time as it's been cool in Perth

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

looks excellent Darryl, what sort of clear have you used - tru oil ? how many coats is that ?

don't rush the coats, you should be allowing plenty of curing time as it's been cool in Perth

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Yeah, I've been trying not to rush! It's just too tempting! But I have been using the DT finishing oil. I've done about five coats of that - really, really thinly. Like - only putting a small amount on at a time. Once a day - sometimes two days apart. I've gone over with steel wool about two or three times, but it just gets everywhere and is very hard to clean up. But even that - just very lightly. I've been using the little cloths that come with a pair of glasses to put every layer on - the microfibre ones. They seem to leave less trace of anything compared to using cotton. I think thats whats helped the real smoothness in the look.

Temperature wise - I've been working in a controlled environment - indoors for as much as I can and letting it rest where there isn't any moisture or condensation. If its been a bit cold out, then warming the place to take the chill out of the air. Coz yeah - been freezing my balls off in Perth lately. Guitar has been getting more attention than my wife! Haha!

no worries Darryl. DB recommends about 3 days between coats and even more for cooler temps, but thin coats will cure faster. Best try and wait 2-3 days between coats. If the coats under don't fully cure they never will and this could cause the finish to crack or bubble down the track and you don't want to have to sand it off and start again !

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Originally Posted by darryl.bellotti

Shiny!

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WHOA MAMA! That's looking amazing Darryl, nice work!