cazaron LP-1M Build Diary

Jack the thread away, the more I learn the better!

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Thanks for the video Zandit, that answered a tonne of questions I had. Am I right in assuming that he didn't mask the binding at all? Or just that the stain inevitably comes through? (not to hijack your thread Cazaron)

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No matter how careful you are with masking, there is going to be some leakage of the stain onto the binding. The quality of the tape used will have some impact on this. Some people don't mask at all, and just scrape after applying the stain, and then apply a clear coat over everything. Everyone has a different way of doing things!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Thanks for the video Zandit, that answered a tonne of questions I had. Am I right in assuming that he didn't mask the binding at all? Or just that the stain inevitably comes through? (not to hijack your thread Cazaron)

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No, his binding is totally unmasked. The only issues you may have is if the binding has unseen cracks, then they will take up the stain, and you wont get it out , see my 335 thread for this - ive decided to make it a feature

Ah, found it, not finished yet... like most of my stuff, haha

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2171

I'm aerosol spraying tomorrow assuming the weather holds, anyone got any advice, how long between coats, how many coats, things to look out for etc?

Thanks Zandit + Stan, that's really helpful. Makes me feel like a first year student again - lost at the deep end!

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Thanks Zandit + Stan, that's really helpful. Makes me feel like a first year student again - lost at the deep end!

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We are all here to help and learn mate

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Originally Posted by cazaron

I'm aerosol spraying tomorrow assuming the weather holds, anyone got any advice, how long between coats, how many coats, things to look out for etc?

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Acrylic paints dry from the outside in - so paint that seems cured on the outside can be still soft in the middle , even after weeks of curing. (This is more than one coat of course...). So the best way to avoid a lot of this is:
Try to use the same brands of undercoat and top coat.
Use several thin coats - not a few thick ones.
Place spray cans in warm water before using - it helps the paint flow better and reduces spattering
Make the first few coats like mist coats, just to get some grab on the surface.
Acrylic can dry quickly with light coats - but the full cure takes longer - I've had lots of trouble with it - which might be me as much as the paint... So one coat a day is enough. It takes longer but curing is far better.
After you have complete and decent coverage leave for 3-4 weeks (yes) to fully cure.
So the whole process could take 5-6 weeks to paint, with aerosol spray acrylics - this might be overkill, but you will get a much harder cure: soft centres are nice for chocolates, but not guitar finishes...
I would lightly sand every 2-3 coats to knock off the dust and deal with runs - wet or dry , up to you, but go easy on the water. If you leave it longer, problems like small runs compound - and they are still wet in the middle...
There are lots of ways to do it, so this is just mine. Some people have had great success with acrylics using other processes...

Oh , and most finishes have issues with humidity, it can cause blushing, bubbles, incomplete adherence and stuff - pick a nice day or a well controlled indoor environment (with good ventilation )

Yeah, just clear coating what I've got now with some nitro finish, hopefully it plays nice, but I don't really know what to expect.

Thanks Stan.