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Thanks WeirdBits for the explanation. I actually found a few articles discussing just that. I ran my multimeter across them and determined the the A500 pot reaches 250K at around the 3/10 position, whereas the B500 is evenly spread across 1-10, ie 250K at around the 5/10 position. So I'll use the B500K for volume and A500K for tone. All good!
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Scott's post is exactly what I would have said. There is no standard unfortunately and his suggestion in terms of checking the resistance is the only way. You may also find that a 500k pot will actually measure somewhere between 400 and 600k! So a good thing is to try and match the resistance when installing pots.
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Hmmmmm.....
I see therapy ahead!!
I'd make the joining wires a bit longer because they tend to knot up and or break off when you pull them through. The only way you can fix the issue is to undo EVERYTHING and start over. If the cabling is a bit longer you give yourself the option of only having to remove one or at most two of the pots.
I'd be taping up or putting heat-shrink on the exposed solder joints - that's if you aren't soldering these to the pots as a ground. Don't forget to earth/ground the bridge as well as each of the pots!
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Thanks for your comments and tips, Gavin. Here's take 2, with longer wires, insulation and ground wires.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...k-IMAG0361.jpg
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sweet well done SFK,
you must have some electrical experience by the sounds, nice test rig there !
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I'm either brave or mad. When sanding back the first topcoat I noticed a small glue mark on the back and decided to sand it right back. May as well take the time now to get it as perfect as possible. So here it is sanded back and after first corrective coat.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...7-IMAG0365.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...k-IMAG0366.jpg
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Heaps actually, Wokka. Been an enthusiast all my life and some professional experience earlier in my career. It was actually the electronics side of things that drew me to kit guitars. Two of my interests in one!