Wudtone Vs Nitro

No arguments from me on using oil finishes, Axeman... I use them all the time.
Wudtone is an oil and wax based product after all.

The only problem I have with using T O is it is full of silica,(incredibly finely ground up glass) and although it is a brilliant product for rifle stocks, (which it was invented primarily for), the use of any product that contains silica on musical instruments may lead to some serious issues down the track, not to mention affecting the tone by clogging up the pores with glass.

I have read many glowing reports about using T O on Guitars on many forums.. But...
Some of my colleagues have had Guitars that were stripped and re finished in T O come into their workshops for repairs some years after being re finished.

What they found is it was nigh impossible to re glue nuts, replace finger boards and the like because the silica in the product resists glues.

One found that the T O had penetrated between the finger board and neck, possibly causing them to separate but definitely rendering the whole thing non repairable.

I don’t particularly enjoy raining on any ones parade, I probably should have spoken up earlier but it is not my place to tell people what finishes they should use, rather it my place to guide and assist you.

At the end of the day, those of you who are using T O may never experience any problems and will enjoy the high gloss finish it gives

Personally though, I am not a fan of the high gloss as to my eye, it reflects so much light that it has the effect of masking rather than enhancing the grain and figure of timber.

Thanks for the heads up DB, I had only heard positive things on other build sites. I was considering using Tru oil on my next kit. Still might, food for thought though.

I've started an experiment with a spare ST-1 body that's been finished in golden rod wudtone, I've applied 2 coats of tru oil, will continue to put about 10-15 more thin coats of T O on to see how it turns out, so I'll start a diary soon and take some photos. If it doesn't work out I'll sand it back and start again ! Problem is it may take time for the T O to react with the wudtone - stay tuned

Thanks Phil, very informative and well researched and balanced article. With your wealth of knowledge and that of your colleagues it is very interesting to here the other side of the Tru-Oil debate. As Craig said, definitely food for thought.

The reason that we all build these guitars is probably as varied as the final results we produce. For me it is the build that is probably the primary motivating factor. Longevity of the guitar is not important to me, but for those much younger than I and those who would like to produce a masterpiece that is kept in the family and passed down to the next generation the decision of whether or not use T-O should be considered very carefully.

A must read for anybody considering using T-O in the future.

Thanks mate
rob

Thanks Rob.

I was worried that I may have come over as a know it all pratt... but to me all of your builds are just as precious as they are to you and I would love nothing more than for all your builds live on and be played long after we are all gone to our prospective rewards.

I guess the old adage of less is best may well be applied to the use of TO.
So rather than the fifty thousand coats (slight exaggeration there DB) try for three or four and let each coat cure for at least 24 hours before re coating.

The reason I say this is after todays conversation with a friend who is a Gun Smith and uses TO recommended this course.

Keep creating and experimenting Guys! :)

IIam watching this with interest from Vietnam. I will get my A into G and get the recordings up when I have reclaimed my life and returned to Aus!! ;)

Quote:

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/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on August 22, 2013, 17:31
Thanks Rob.

I was worried that I may have come over as a know it all pratt... but to me all of your builds are just as precious as they are to you and I would love nothing more than for all your builds live on and be played long after we are all gone to our prospective rewards.

I guess the old adage of less is best may well be applied to the use of TO.
So rather than the fifty thousand coats (slight exaggeration there DB) try for three or four and let each coat cure for at least 24 hours before re coating.

The reason I say this is after todays conversation with a friend who is a Gun Smith and uses TO recommended this course.

Keep creating and experimenting Guys! :)

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Haha, definitely a know it all, but not of the pratt variety. Because you do know, well, most of the good stuff anyway. I probably speak for most here at PBG when I thank you for sharing that knowledge.

I did try the less is more approach with Bec's Bass. Not just a few coats like you suggest, but certainly a lot less than usual. I wanted to make a feature the open pore/grain of that beautiful Ash body. I find the basswood bodies a little featureless and bland, so prob overdo the finish.

Can't wait for Adam to start bringing in the Ash dodied guitars, I'll be one of the first in line for a Strat.

Cheers
rob

Hey guys,
DB, i am doing my first build on a LP 1 and am only young so i am not sure about finishes. I really want a high gloss finish and was considering tru oil due to it being easily applied. How hard is it to use and get a good finish with other finishes such as nitro?
thanks a lot rob has already helped me a lot just wanted to get another opinion :)

Oh and i forgot to mention sorry to say this but i am not using wudtone instead water based dyes. :) sorry haha just didn't have the money for wudtone

On a limited budget I would rule out Nitro as you will need good quality spray equipment.
There are some wipe on Poly finishes available but as I wont personally use them I am unsure as to price and end results.