Hoopers TL-1TH

Looking classy - should be an exciting weekend for you!

Help! Does anyone know where the wiring diagram for the TL-1TH is? The TL-1, and the video, refers to a 7-pin switch, not the 8-pin variety that comes with the TL-1TH. Also, one of the pots is wired into the circuit in the diagram, but the other is literally sitting out in the middle of nowhere with no connections. Oddly though it's that 2nd pot that has the capacitor attached. How does the other pot wire up? The first pot that is connected to the circuit is very confusing. It seems to have the two pickup earths soldered to the pot base (earth). And it looks like leg 3 of the pot is bent around and also soldered to the base, correct? That's fine, but what is very odd is that neither of the other two legs are used. This doesn't make sense as the pots have two signal lines and one ground, so how does that work? Help!

Try this one...

http://www.dimarzio.com/sites/defaul...v1t_3w_all.pdf

Quote:

---

Quote from Gavin1393 on April 19, 2013, 19:25
Try this one...

http://www.dimarzio.com/sites/defaul...v1t_3w_all.pdf

---

Thanks, Gavin. I actually used this one: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support...ele_2v_no_tone

Looking at the one you suggested, which I'm not sure I fully understand, it looks like I've ignored tone and gone for two volume pots, so guess I'm up for a rewire!

Kind of amazed that each model doesn't have it's own separate clear wiring diagram. :?

I'm having trouble with the bridge placement. From what I understand, the distance between the fret side of the nut, and the middle of the 12th fret needs to be the same as the distance between the middle of the 12th fret and the saddles, yes? I measure 322mm for the first half, but 330mm for the bottom, and that's with the bridge pushed right up to the scratch plate. Am I overlooking something?

http://i49.tinypic.com/21j2iqq.jpg

Don't panic!

Measure again. And measure again. There should be more play in it than that. Okay, a couple of things to check:
- make sure you're measuring to the point at which the strings would no longer be in contact with the saddles;
- it looks like you might be able to shift all the saddles forward a bit, to try to make up the difference;
- measure again.

You may have already tried these things, but it's hard to see from here! And you did ask for help. One of the older hands may have more ideas. Good luck!

Make sure you are measuring to the middle (or crown) of the fret wire (12th fret).

rob

There is some play at the bridge end, this is called compensation.

Gavin has written an excellent article on this and on setting the correct saddle positions for intonation.... I know it is on the forum somewhere but I have lost track of where all this info is!

Might be time to set up a section for all the relevant info, methinks.....

Here is my response to Rob's post last evening.

The neck must be fastened to the guitar body before you position any choice of bridge. A key factor that determines where the bridge will be positioned on the body of the guitar is the point where the neck meets the body. Scale length is vitally important.
All individual saddles must be set close to the front of the bridge. Now take a long ruler and measure the scale length from the front of the nut (or middle of the zero-fret) and position the middle of the saddles at this point. The bridge is then located centered to the fingerboard and its front parallel to the frets and screwed on. If you don't have the long ruler measure half of the scale length from the actual 12th fret.
Setting the intonation (compensation): Put the strings on, tune and stretch them lightly to shorten the time they need to settle. Retune. Now compare the pitch of an open string to its pitch when it is depressed at the 12th fret. You might expect that it should be equal but it isn't. When you depress a string its pitch becomes higher than it anticipated be because of the slight increase of string tension when you do so. Therefore the actual vibrating length of all strings must be made longer than the scale length in order to compensate for this fact. This is adjusted when you set the intonation of a guitar. An electric guitar usually has an adjustable saddle and the necessary compensation is therefore easy to adjust by screwing the saddles further away from the nut. Don't forget to retune every time you change the string length.
Make the vibrating string length longer until both pitches are equal. That's all. You will notice that the bass strings need more compensation than the treble strings. It might be necessary to recheck the intonation after a while when the strings have settled in completely.

THEN, here is to post DB was mentioning on intonation set up.

Here is the intonation article:

http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=4...iewtopic&t=186

Thanks for your help guys!

Ok, I think I can see the problem. Take a look at the pic above and you might see there is a 3mm gap between the bottom of the neck and the scratch plate. This is because the pickups dictated where the scratch plate was going to sit. Not accurately routed maybe? Anyway, that has pushed everything down.

I'm definitely measuring from where the strings leave the nut, to the middle of the 12th fret wire, to where the strings leave the bridge. I have 321mm and 325mm, and thats with the saddle wound out further than would be comfortable, ie another turn or two and the saddle falls off. Not good!