Great. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
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Great. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
So, yesterday I repaired the chip with super-glue and no issues there.
Today, I applied the decals to the headstock. I would've done this sooner but when I went to get the acrylic spray for the decal, I couldn't find it. Doh! Got in touch with Bunnings as I thought i'd left it in the shop (i bought this over a month ago). They put a can aside for me and I picked it up today, free of charge. Thank you Bunnings!!
Here is the Headstock decal printed using inkjet decal paper, sprayed with White Knight Crystal clear acrylic spray:
https://i.imgur.com/lpX9QmV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AfdNUcY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X7pKS9O.jpg
And I also applied the 1st intensifying coat to the body (Dingotone Karijini red). Like it says on the tin, it has intensified the colour. I'm interested to see how it is once dry:
https://i.imgur.com/Ag88SgU.jpg
Nice shade of red......one more intensifier coat is the charm.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Looking good. Nice logo.
Wow this is a real patience game!
Unfortunately we are experiencing a very wet summer and drying times have increased (Dingotone stain). So much for getting the guitar finished in the summer holidays. I did manage another intensifying coat today.
On a plus side I have nearly finished the distortion pedal kit and about to start a build-your-own multimeter kit. https://www.jaycar.com.au/digital-mu...r-kit/p/KG9250
Once that's done I can do the Beatles lego set I got for Xmas, maybe, just maybe, the next coat will be dry by then!!
Here is the finished distortion pedal kit. It actually sounds really good, a bit noisy when cranked up but otherwise perfectly acceptable. The knobs are a bit close together but I could do nothing about that as the holes were pre-drilled.
https://i.imgur.com/mVwo0ax.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ue12oLp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ydhx8rq.jpg
And here it is next to a fuzz-box I built in Year 11 (5th Year) at school, circa 1996.
https://i.imgur.com/5Mmkujg.jpg
I applied the Dingotone finishing coats to the neck. They didn't quite have the hard, glossy, shiny finish that I was looking for (maybe it just needed more time??). I got a bottle of Tru Oil and have applied 4 light coats to the neck. It is already starting to look better. The plan is to apply another 2-3 coats, do a light sand, then another 4-5 coats. I'll see how things are then and if I need to apply some more.
The fretboard is rosewood, I had planned to finish it with wax. Now that I have the Tru Oil, will it hurt to put a few coats on the fretboard?
The body has the third intensifying coat (Dingotone) and is still too sticky to move forward. I'll give it a few days and see if it needs another intensifying coat or if I can proceed with the finishing coats. Again, I may finish with Tru Oil but not decided yet.
I also masked the binding with tape when applying the stain. Should I remove the tape and scrape the binding before the final coat or after the final coats?
I wouldn’t put try oil over a rosewood board. I think you’re better off with a finish that soaks in. I’m in the process of finishing a maple board with try oil, and it’s not much fun. It tends to build up around the base of the frets and not cure, so you end up with a bit of a mushy mess.
Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonwhitear
I might just stick with plan A - a little wax on the fretboard.
I have only use Tru Oil on bodies and the back of a couple of mahogany necks (both rosewood fretboards) but have done a number of maple fretboards using wipe-on poly. Tru Oil is not dissimilar to wipe-on poly, in fact, polyurethane is actually a component of Tru Oil.Quote:
I’m in the process of finishing a maple board with try oil, and it’s not much fun. It tends to build up around the base of the frets and not cure, so you end up with a bit of a mushy mess.
My point is I had no trouble like you're describing. My finish came out perfectly flat and even along the frets.
I would suggest that you may be applying it too thick. Also, if you're only wiping in a lengthwise direction only, that will cause the frets to dam the liquid. You need to wipe the fretboard area between the frets both lengthwise and crossways to alleviate the pooling. After wiping in the cross direction, just be sure to clean up any build up along the fretboard edge so not to create runs or sags on the back of the neck.
I see no reason to apply anything to a rosewood fretboard other than periodically wiping it with a bit of lemon oil or even furniture oil. I have a 200ml bottle of "O'Cedar Revive" that's lasted nearly 20 years and I still have most of it left.Quote:
I might just stick with plan A - a little wax on the fretboard.
I'll spare you my usual "lemon oil diatribe"...