Drum,
The glue just turned up in random places....not seams. Like a glue stained hand picked up the body. It is better to find and deal with it now.
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Drum,
The glue just turned up in random places....not seams. Like a glue stained hand picked up the body. It is better to find and deal with it now.
Oh man.. well I'm sure you will make them disappear.. I wish we could get the workers to take a little more caution with the glue.. but then we wouldn't have the challenge of finding those pesky things and making them disappear.
I got rid of the glue and two scratch marks I found. I have begun some interesting Blue and Black fade options.....re-wet twice...sanded once so far...only a little sand...not a bare wood one.
Got this little number in the mail today. Plugged in a strat copy and pounded away on two Amps on two different power sources....not a murmur in the house. Works great too...no clicks burps etc as you change from A to B to Both. Seamless.
Made in Australia...on the Gold Coast as well. It only needs power if you wish flashy lights.
Two different power sources is far worse scenario for creating ground loops than a single power source. It's always best to run connected equipment from the same power outlet using multi-way distribution boards (unless the equipment uses balanced signal cables and has shield ground lift switches available).
But you're unlikely to run into any serious noise issues until you start using digital FX pedals, which is where the multiple ground paths can really make a difference. Using a PSU with isolated power supplies certainly helps here, but even then, using two amps, you may then need to use a switcher with isolated outputs.
I think I will be fine...it is just so I can plug this guitar into a Bass amp and a guitar amp at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
The second paragraph makes no sense to me. This is just for me to use at home mate. Thanks for the info though.
No problem with using it at all, especially over such a relatively short distance. A pure shield works best if only connected at one end (except when run over very long distances when a connection at the other end via a capacitor is often recommended). What you ideally want to avoid is connecting up the braids where you don't need to. E.g. on say a LP's three-position switch, the switch ground should be connected to the output wire's braid to be grounded, but the two signal wires braid shouldn't be connected to anything at the switch end, just the signal wire (and the braids connected to a pot ground in the control cavity. Unless you insulate the braids, it's almost impossible to stop them touching and ruining the ideal set-up. But it's better than using unshielded wires, even if twisted together with a ground wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzbike
Hi Simon, for what it's worth a lot of Aussie properties seem to have a couple of 240v sources, very few have 3 or the industrial grade 3 phase outlets.
Just a humble muso with no electrical or engineering background however I remember 30 odd years ago playing in many old crappy pubs where we had to run long extension leads all over the place to stop the PA humming as it was worst when everything was plugged into the same source. Maybe things are different in the UK but from personal experience across many venues in Qld Ozzie has done good to isolate his humming problem by plugging his amps in through 2 different outlets.
More likely a different earth connection method then. UK typically has an mains/earth ring arrangement, so each socket on a circuit is connected to the same common earth wire. A break in one part of the ring main cable still allows power and earth protection to be provided to all the other sockets. It's economic and works well but does lead to ground loop issues. If it's more standard in Australia to star-wire out from a single distribution point so that each outlet has it's own ground cable running directly to the main building ground, then that could explain it.
Certainly it's UK recommended practice to use a single outlet if possible to reduce ground loops.
It's also not unknown for the electrical wiring in old venues like pubs to be of a poor standard, often with grounds missing, though things have generally got a lot better recently as regs get tightened up and safety inspections have to be undertaken.
I found a tide mark across the back of the body.....think I will let her hang for two or three days...then some sanding...colour and polyurethane again.
Otherwise the mix of U-Beaut stain Blue and then a wipe of Black over the top in places is going well. I actually like it a lot. The Blue was very bright...and the black has made the colour dance around in the grain in places.
The headstocks were given two coats of Tru Oil...left to dry and now the necks, except the fingerboards, have had two thin coats of wipe on polyurethane. The body has had two thin coats of poly as well. (Oh the headstocks are U Beaut Yellow stained under the Tru Oil.)
I was going to mount, drill, situate things before I finished the sealing...as I did in the past. But there is just so much space to cover, so many things to do with this build. I have decided to finish the body....apply the blue 3M tape where it needs to be....measure...drill...and remove the tape.
looking fantastic!
Thanks mate....I like it. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Oh man! That black and blue stain job looks amazing dude! Such a sensational idea, and you've nailed it. Absolutely loving the colour.
cheers,
Gav.
Wow man thanks. Big praise coming from you Gav.Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinturner
I still worry about the defined tide line on the back....maybe have to sand and try the colour again there. I have two coats of poly on her now...the lines are noticeable.
Hi Ozzie, looking good.
Struggling to see tide mark on the back? Maybe not worth the effort touching up vs risk of stuffing up what already looks pretty damn good.
Cheers, Waz
Waz you got the rose coloured glasses....but thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I looked at her all over today....and yeah leave well enough alone I think.
I am now approaching the area I normally have issues with....the first wet sanding...or light sand....or steel wooling.
I did get a kit from the sandpaperman with a number of 50 mm x 50 mm varying grade micro mesh pads.
My query is do I start now wetsanding at the coarsest grade? Do I wipe on more coats of poly before I start? Do I do a staged progression of three or four coats of poly followed by a light wet sand with finer and finer micromesh pads after more and more polyurethane?
Ideas will be much appreciated guys. Thank you in anticipation. 😎
Hi Ozzie, just wondering how many top coats have you done as final wet sanding can end up stripping the last couple quite easily.
If everything looks and feels quite smooth maybe start with 1200. These days I start with 1500 and if that isn't doing enough then drop back to 1200 and work my way on to 1500 then 2000 before reverting to the 4000 micro mesh pad, followed by 6000, 8000 and finishing on the 12000 pad.
If you start on the coarsest micro mesh pad it may not have enough grunt and you will wear it out fast without making much of an impression on the finish. I speak from experience having worn out that blue 4000 grit one on the 1st kit of pads while the rest were about 70% spent after doing 4 guitars.
Cheers, Waz
I'm with Waz. Dont start with anything less than 1500.
cheers,
Gav.
Okay...Waz and Gav.
I get the idea. I shall apply more light coats of poly until I am getting a coverage I like...THEN...doing some sanding.
In the past I have applied "X" number of coats and then stepping up from the previous coarseness of sandpaper I have done what I would have called finishing sanding...either light sand...or wet sand.....continuing with say 3 to 4 coats and then sanding to the point that I would be having a smooth surface and be up about 2000 grit. Then I would do the auto product finish.
This time it seems maybe my thick head can absorb the need to get the coverage I need and then only sand then....basically one sanding operation...but with progressively finer grits....micromesh included.
Okay she has had a further coat all over today. I am trying to make the last movement of the application in long with the grain wipes....hoping to even it out....this in the past has driven me nuts. The lines between areas and my perception of uneveness.
This time...straight to 10 coats and then see what I have. (It appears that as I apply the poly with a square of cotton cloth that I am apparently applying 1/3 of a coat each time...effectively...the master of all knowledge...the Internet....says. So at about 10 coats I will have the depth of about 3 thin brushed coats. I hope that is thin enough...yet smooth and protective enough.)
Feast Watson say 6 hour between coats? I think that is a little time sad. So one a day at the moment....with life induced longer gaps here and there....say every three coats....then a gap of a couple of days.
We currently stand at four coats all over...tomorrow off to Brisbane...work chasing...got an Interview...wish me luck guys. :)
See how we go over Fri Sat Sun......up to 7.....then maybe leave a couple of days....and then do wed thu fri....through to 10 coats at the end of next week.
I would then like to let her hang for a fortnight....maybe a month to fully harden....then start the wetsanding at 1500grit. Fingers are crossed. :)
Thanks for the advice gurus of gloss.
You are on the right track Ozzie.
This wet weather may cause you to extend time between coats to allow each one enough drying time to cure.
Good luck on the job hunt.
Cheers, Waz
I have done five coats of hand rubbed poly on her now.....this is how she stands.
Today is an extra drying day due to rain...and I will be printing the headstock decals and may even sneak them on.
I really am considering just keeping the guitar as she is now. I think the decal plan I had with aussie flag stuff on the front and back will reduce the effect of the black over blue stain. I actually like it as it is.
Oh...notice the difference in colouring across woods.....the body and the neck of the 6 string are taking stain and poly with similar results...a blue to green colour.
Check out the back of the bass neck...blue to the end.
Amazing how the natural tones in wood can effect colours of stains and finishes. I like it better than paint...sorry paint people.
WAZZZ...you should come have another after work drop in and cast an eye over her for me. It helps....an objective view can find things I missed.
awesome job. I'd leave it as is it is also. The variation in colours is all it needs to look awesome
I was just wandering about the pitbull guitars site....I noted that the BG46 has gornnn. I then checked the EBay store and the big girl is still there....with a stock count of 10.
If you are a MOD please let Ads know. 😎
Hi Ozzie, looking nice and shiny.
Just started a new job at Caboolture 2 weeks ago so a drop by after work is not so easy anymore plus June is really busy and very tired by the end of the day. Keen to catch up again another day, just not sure when at this stage.
Cheers Waz
Go you with the new job. I have a couple of irons burning in the fire too.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
You are welcome anytime mate.
burst looking nice with the poly on
DAYUM! That is looking sweet...and enormous. But still sweet!Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzbike
Cheers mate, hope something works out for you soon too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzbike
Thar she hangs. The Big Girl is in week two of hanging to cure. I did 12 coats of polyurethane by hand all over. I used a kids paint brush to cover the cavities etc with some black stain as I think some items like pickups will not completely fill the cavitiy voids.
2 weeks to go then wet sanding and polishing then the bit I like...hardware and wiring. :)
and some more....pics.
Looking awesome Ozz. Love the colours. Cool how you split the name over both headstocks
I thought it would look different. I hope it works out.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Making good progress Ozzie.
What did you use for the clear wipe on Poly?
Waz,Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
This one from the green shed.
http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1512
It is oil based....pretty thin and easy to wipe on.
OK, have looked at that recently and from memory it costs about $33 for one of those tins? How much do you use on one guitar as that quantity looks way too much for what I need.
You will use next to nothing. The red cap screws up tight.....no reason you can't do many more.
...and in a couple of months will dry solid despite having the cap on...so into the bin with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
cheers, Mark.
That's looking superb. Lovely work!
I suspected as much. Same thing happens with Tru Oil too. Was contemplating a blue finish on something which requires a true clear top coat as TO turns blue a slight shade of green.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Sure Waz, but FW wipe-on-poly had (yes 'had') a yellow hue to it also.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark. May need to just use White Knight Acrylic spray instead.