Ben's RCA-4 Build

I have used spirit based stain on my rcA 4 kit, no issues with the different take up of the stain on the different timbers, I used a black stain on the back and neck, amber on the headstock and front of body.
If you apply the stain with a rag and don't mask the binding, you can apply it avoiding the binding by using a small rag folded carefully. That way you should avoid the problems with it seeping into the binding. If you mask the binding and rub the meths stain across it whilst staining it tends to creep under the tape and into some cracks and faults in the binding where it shows up as a line. As Simon says I'd imagine it's to do with the viscosity and surface tension of the spirit based stain.
Any stain that ends up on the binding can be carefully removed with fine steel wool or a scalpel blade gently scraping sideways across the binding as you would a knife across hard butter.
Then you can clear over the stain, covering the binding with clear too or masking it off.

It's difficult. It's the same basic stain, so you could try mixing a little with water first and trying that on the back. If doesn't look like it's taking well, then you could switch to alcohol/spirit (I use methylated spirit to thin my spirit-based stains) and see if that's better, but then I'd mask the binding first. 3M automotive vinyl pin-striping masking tape is great for bindings (comes in 3mm and 6mm widths and is very flexible). You won't need much stain.

I found that spirit-based stain didn't leave a tide-mark like water based stain did if you left an edge that dried out a bit before you got back to it, though it's always best to try and do the complete body in one go if possible (or at least the top and then the rest of the body).

Note that end grain always soaks up more stain than the rest of the wood does, all those open-ended wood fibres exposed. With water stain, soaking the end grain with water first can reduce the amount of stain soaked up. Not sure if that works so well with spirit stains and alcohol.

As Timber Mate is water soluble using water based stains can cause the filler to be re-hydrated and eventually shrink back when the stain coat dries which can leave grain contours, as what happened on my Red J Bass. Totally unexpected but I left it as that added another 3D aspect which accentuated the grain even further.

If you want dead flat smooth glass like finish maybe spirit based would be the way to go. To protect the binding I would be inclined to cover it with something that can be scraped off later. Very tedious and fiddly job but nail polish might be the simplest, just don't use acetone to remove as that may melt the binding. It would also require a very thorough masking tape effort to prevent any bleeding onto the raw timber.

On my current ES1 build I used water based inks over natural timber mate and suffered a little bit of timber swelling but no shrinkage. Spent forever cutting masking tape to fit the curves of the binding and trimmed off at the edge of raw timber and was well worth the effort as there was no stain bleed at all, and that was with just mid range grade of painters masking tape.

Thanks guys. Based on all your input I'm going to go alcohol based. I will mask the binding and just be very careful around the edge.

I had this laying around, will it work with the stain?
Attachment 27262

Maybe, best to test any theories on scrap timber first.

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Got some parts in today and I want to get the bridge holes drilled before I start staining. I measured from the fretboard side of the nut to my saddles, or at least within their range of adjustment. Does this look right?
Attachment 27282
Attachment 27283

Yeah, looks good.
Usually 34" to treble side saddle on the G string as the thicker ones will need to have room to be wound back a bit when doing intonation.


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Tend to prefer drilling holes last to avoid any swelling that can occur doing wet sanding where water gets into parts that are still raw and unfinished.
With lots of coats the holes will partially fill near the surface but still need a light re-drill to clear the lip created.
As this is all underneath the bridge plate probably not such a big deal but having a dead flat slab when doing final polishing is a distinct advantage.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Tend to prefer drilling holes last to avoid any swelling that can occur doing wet sanding where water gets into parts that are still raw and unfinished.
With lots of coats the holes will partially fill near the surface but still need a light re-drill to clear the lip created.
As this is all underneath the bridge plate probably not such a big deal but having a dead flat slab when doing final polishing is a distinct advantage.

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I saw some other threads where people mentioned to drill first that way it doesn't mess up the finish. It would be nice to drill after the neck is glued I guess. And the holes will be covered by the bridge if there is any chipping or anything.