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Sanding grit levels can vary depending on the wood types and the finish to be applied. It can also depend on the state of the body and neck you get in the kit. A lot of the PBG videos were done a relatively long time ago, and experience has shown that in some instances there are improvements to be made on the advice given. Any videos too far from the norm have been removed but unfortunately have yet to be re-filmed (obviously this takes quite a long time to do over a build).
Some stains take better than others, so some need a rougher finish to allow the wood to absorb the stain than others, which will work on a smoother finish. It's never a good idea to go too smooth on the bare wood, as in most instances, you'll be getting the really smooth finish by sanding down the clear-coats to flat on the final finish layer.
Also, if you've been watching YouTube videos of North American builds or luthiers, then beware that there are big differences in US ANSI.CAMI and FEPA/Euro (as you'd normally find in Australia or Europe) grit sizes once you get above 220 grit. Micro-Mesh grits are also a completely different system. Many comparison tables out on the web, but here's the one I use: https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/a...ion-chart.html
If in doubt, just ask, as you'll get the info given on what has and hasn't worked on that particular wood type with that choice of finish. You'll still get some variation, but that's life.
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Ok, getting near to sanding/finishing the neck. We have the clear DingoTone finish, which is obviously ok for the back of the neck, but what is ok for the fretboard? It’s the engineered wood (can’t think of the term, but I assume it’s a compressed pulp of some sort, with an artificial grain).
I have Tru-Oil, but I’m not sure if that’s ok for the fretboard. I’ll finish the back of the neck with Tru-Oil once it’s stained fully.
Any thoughts?
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Going on advice given on other threads, most people don't use a finish on the fretboards other then either lemon oil for fret board wax
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Yes, though I'm still not quite sure what to do with these manufactured wood fretboards. In theory the resin that's holding the wood fibres together should encase all but the exposed wood fibres, so that they won't loose any more moisture. But I've tried putting lemon oil on them and it just seemed to soak it up pretty quickly, so I'm not sure what the correct long-term answer is. They can certainly benefit from rubbing down with sandpaper to make them feel smoother (which means that you'll need to polish the frets afterwards to remove the sandpaper scratches). You wouldn't normally put any finish on the face of a rosewood or ebony board (only Rickenbacker normally lacquer them like a maple board), but there's nothing stopping you from putting some wax on from time to time if you like the feel.
Lemon oil is used to stop the fretboard from shrinking over time, leaving sharp fret-ends, as the moisture in the board evaporates. The oil replaces the moisture and also darkens the appearance of the board. It's not primarily used to make the board feel smoother, and one should avoid using too much oil so that it's not absorbed and remains on the surface, so if there's any still sitting there after a day, then it should certainly be wiped off with a clean rag.
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Great info. Thanks, Simon!
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It all comes down to what feel you prefer.
I personally prefer lacquer finished fret boards as they are smoother, faster, tend to have a brighter sound and don't need to be periodically waxed or oiled.
Haven't seen this manufactured dark wood fret board stuff in the flesh but some of the pics posted show it as being prone to minor damage as has been revealed when masking tape is removed. For that reason alone I would seriously look at permanently sealing the stuff to lock in the appearance and prevent it from falling apart over time.
Cheers, Waz
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Thanks, Wazkelly
Further question:
We’ve had to strip back some of the DingoTone stain and reapply. We’ve now got two coats of it and very happy with the colour and depth of the look. We’re intending to TruOil the body, and we’re just wondering if we need to apply the DingoTone Intensifier and/or Final Coat? Do these stages do something to seal the stain before the TruOil?
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Intensifier is worth doing a couple of coats as it does make a difference. If using TO for top coats, would suggest skipping DT final or top coat.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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Thanks, Wazkelly
Here’s a couple of images of the finish as it stands.
Do you still think it needs the intensifier coat(s)?
https://i.imgur.com/fDDQbFPl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MyJDbVsl.jpg
