Thinking we might as well replace both, that way you get a fresh batch.
Meanwhile, sand it back with 220 to help get some tooth happening.
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Thinking we might as well replace both, that way you get a fresh batch.
Meanwhile, sand it back with 220 to help get some tooth happening.
I was editing my post as you were typing, so you may have missed my extra questions DB.
You've already answered 1) & 2)
3) I suppose I could use this non-mustard-cutting 'Black Stump' as the grain popper? Or do I need to use something more 'black' for that purpose?
4) Nobody seems to want to answer this one - how I will know when I can apply a second lot of stain coats?
5) Can I speed up the drying process by putting the body and neck in direct sunshine? Or in a room with a de-humidifier?
Thanks again.
Some parts of the back of the body seem to have gone black [the grain patten at the top, left of centre ], but most hasn't.... actually the finish ATM looks to me what they call Japan Black.....people pay a fortune in Sydney to have their floorboards done that colour.
Hi Muzza, no way to speed up the curing process without things ending up in tears. Just need to be patient with the DT or pick another product for finishing if you are in a hurry to get the job done. Even then you probably won't save that much time as every coat needs time to go off, no matter what product you use.
Thanks boys.
That's question 1, 2 & 5 out of the way.
Still waiting on 3 & 4...
Hey Muzza, yep, you will find it will pop the grain.
With the stain coat, you can go mental and keep applying it until the timber won't absorb any more.
If after that you still have some left, give it 24 hours and go again.
let it cure for a few days and then apply the first coat of intensifyer.
Now for the good news, you are officially one of our beta testers for MKII. :)
Drying times are greatly reduced so that should make life easier.
So that makes two beta testers, anyone else game enough to put their hand up?
We will be shipping it out early next weekish.
I think that stain is looking absolutely killer as is. I'd beta test, but I still have a lot of sanding to do before I'm ready to stain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
Willing to beta test on an alder body i have here, or a beautiful Swamp Ash, or i got a few thing here i could try it on.
Thanks Blueshound. Yes, I guess it does look pretty good... if that's the colour you're looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueshound
But the colour of my particular guitar's back, sides and neck needs to be black.
"Popping the grain"....!!!!!
Who's f#$%&*@ idea was THAT?
If I didn't hate sanding before, I sure do now. Safe to say, I'm not trying that again.
I've gotta say, I'm not enjoying this hand rubbed burst experience. Hopefully, the fruit of my efforts will make it all worthwhile, but I'm not liking the result so far.
After more 240 grit (and even down to 180 grit) than the whole build so far...
Attachment 8700
I was just going to coat the whole face with Nullabor Ochre and wait until the new improved 'BLACK Stump' arrives.
Attachment 8701
But my curiosity and impatience got the better of me - I tried my hand at the initial stages of a burst using the 'Blackish' Stump - thinking the thin-ness may help me with the blending.
Attachment 8702
The third photo is after about 5 coats of N.O. and B.S. Probably should've stopped after 3 or 4 as it just wasn't taking any more in.
BTW, the Black Stump does look black in these photos, but it's really thin/transparent. The grain of the maple is still very visible.
I reckon my airbrush is going to see the light of day for the first time in over 12 years on my next build. It'll need new 'O' rings I'd say...
Can you spray DingoTone? Or does it HAVE to be rubbed in?