looks like an EX birthday cake!
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looks like an EX birthday cake!
haha love the description Stan, it sure does !
right so I've started sanding it back by sanding with 80 till I could start seeing the wood then switching to a combination of 240 and 320 which has completely worn through one strip of 320 without even clearing the top but I have run into an issue, as I was sanding I have found what appears to be three dents which to the best of my knowledge weren't there pre timbermate application as a result these dents have been filled with the watered down timbermate and have a markedly different feel and texture to the wood so as that they would easily be noticed if they had a gloss finish over them, what should i do about it? at the moment I'm planning on going back to 180 sanding them out and then working back up reapplying timbermate to that area and then I'm back to where I am now, should I try getting the watered down timbermate out of them and then putting in some normal timbermate acting as a filler or?
thanks heaps for any help regarding anything I should do or might currently be doing wrong
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Hey Will, so are the 3 dents you are talking about the 3 small white areas where there's timbermate ? Might to pay to fill these with 100% timbermate will be stronger than watered down.
Sometimes when bodies are hung up the wind blows them into a solid object, maybe this has caused the 3 small dents.
Some builders have used an iron with a damp cloth to remove dents but I don't know enough about it to give advice on that.
Since this will have solid paint I'd re-fill these areas and sand back
yes those are the dents I didn't end up hanging it for application though it was hung up for a short period I think I'll try refilling it with 100% timbermate and see how that goes, any tips on how to get the timbermate thats already there out?
use a sharp object to pick out pieces of the timbermate but wouldn't be too worried if it all doesn't come out. Just make sure you fill it nice and compact with the 100% filler
Hey all
Sorry I haven't updated in a while I got a bit busy but I've managed to get back to the build and I've got it all pretty well sanded up to 320. I ended up using 240 to sand back the timbermate but only till I hit wood so I didn't sand it out and then switched to 320. There were a few small spots that looked like they might not have been covered but now that it's sanded back I can't see any difference so will that be okay? There's a few spots that still need cleaning up and I was wondering if you could give me any tips on doing that, the areas in question are the bridge post holes the control cavity and control holes and neck pocket as well as a few small spots such as the small hole between the control cavity and the stop tail mounting hole ( I assume this is for a ground wire?) and a few spots along the edges.
I may as well ask now since I'll probably be cracking out my rotary tool, will I need to shield the pickup cavities? I have some copper tape but as it is the pickups are a very snug fit and I'm not sure how to account for the thickness of the copper tape, I think I've heard some say that its not necessary to shield the pup cavities as they're humbuckers but I'm not sure.
Anyway sorry for the wall of text here are some pictures:
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try warm water on a rag and give it a scrub, can sometimes soften and remove thinner coverings of timbermate
Willem,
sanding to 320 grit should be enough for solid paint. Yes the hole in the bridge post bush hole is for the earth wire. Don't forget to expose plenty of bare wire and run the wire to the control cavity when you knock in the bridge posts (once the finish is all done)
I'd put copper shielding in the control cavity and don't worry about the pup cavities if its a tight fit
righto I ought to ask now as I'll most likely be onto paint in the next couple days
first off how do I know when to switch grades of sandpaper? so far I've kind of been bumbling through it switching to the next grade when I think it feels smoother than it was following spending a few hours going over with 180 to start with but it's at the point now where I can't say I can feel any real difference and have just been switching after I've gone over everything once or twice. At the moment I was just planning on going over everything(including the neck, not the fret board though is it okay if I hit the sides a bit or should I try masking it off?) with 400 for about 30min-1hr before starting to try and track down some paint
Secondly,regarding the neck and fretboard, should I glue the neck before paint? As I am planning on painting the neck as well, I thought if I glue the neck first not only will it help create a smoother transition between body and neck but I could use timbermate to to try and in a sense sculpt a smoother transition between body and neck and and fill any spaces as the fit of the pocket is a bit loose,also how long will the glue need to set before I can continue working, and then regarding the fretboard, it's not exactly smooth and there appears to be a couple spots where there are what could be called machine marks the fourteenth fret in particular has three short but certainly noticeable grooves running in line with the neck, how can I remove these without making this fret deeper/lower than the others, I have bought the steel wool kit from PBG as I was initially under the impression that I would be making good use of it if it will be of any use,also the fretboard feels significantly rougher than even the un-sanded neck let alone the body. It might be worth it to note that the nut also seems incredibly tall/high and from what I have been able to tell the frets, while I don't think they're too bad, aren't exactly level. Is there a chance there is a kind soul on here with some tools and skills that I acquire the services of to take a bit of a look a the neck and see what they could do or should I leave it and put it in with a shop when it's done and I can afford it,
Lastly(sorry for another wall of text) I'm going to need to get a can of white auto paint as thats the colour I'm doing the neck and body but I was wondering if there would be a decent alternative to buying a can of black paint as all I will be painting black will be the face of the headstock, I'm okay with getting it if it has a decent shelf life as I have plans for a future build when I will need it but it may be a matter of years before that build comes into being and I believe there are some paints that must be used within a few hours of the first use, and how long do you think it will take to get all the paint on its okay if it takes a while to cure before it's useable as I don't really need to do anything to it while that happens but I would like to have it pretty well finished within the next few weeks if not before the month is out(I'm sure that a bit of a tall order) as I will be going back to school (surprise, I am but a wee spring chicken if you couldn't tell by now)
Anyway thanks heaps for any and all advice and again sorry for all the rambling