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PK - you are so right, I know, I even hid the join lines where tuners would be etc to minimise the visibility. On the back I could have lived with it, but on the headstock I couldn't, so it was just as easy to do the lot and get it all right.
At least if I do it right and it goes well, I can offer a service that includes these types of repairs and have a good example of it. Anyone paying for a repair will usually be ruthless with quality
And if I don't, I'll still have a nice axe
I hear you Jarrod and Bargy, OCD costs us all, haha
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Well, turns out the new paint is very similar to the first effort. Not painting this a third time, it really is good enough, and other projects to get on with. Especially my sister's LP.
Get some gloss on it then it becomes a fun axe and a good base for modding. I have some zebra PRS SE pups at about 10k ohms that would look awesome in this...
Getting the minwax wipe on poly on this, some pics soon , photobucket appears to be down...
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Pics!
Getting close now.
Minwax is pretty good, but there is too much dust in my shed, so I will have to make a booth of some sort.
Repair nearly complete:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...e%20LP/011.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...20LP/002-3.jpg
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nice one Stan looking very shiny. So is this the build with the broken headstock ? come up a treat, looks like new !
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Yes Wokka, busted headstock.
Thanks mate, the poly is still wet in these pics, but, it's looking OK.
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nice, so roughly how many coats of wipe on poly to get to this level ?
It has blended in nicely to the existing clear
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Thanks.
Didnt count to be honest - several is my best guess... about 10 or so
The entire neck was rubbed back with 1500 and I poly wiped the lot. No reactions and didnt have a join or actual blending to worry about
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nice one Stan, so the logo did you have to put new logos on ?
Looks like the Epiphone is an inlay
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Epiphone is an inlay, and yes, the logos are the originals.
I rubbed back the whole headstock with 1500 and I taped over the logos leaving a bit of a gap under neath, towards the truss rod cover and painted up to my tape point.
Where the two blacks met I tried to keep it as thin as I could , so that there would be no ridge, and sanded with 2000 to blend.
The blend line is through the two tuner holes closest to the nut. That way, if it is visible (and it is a bit at the correct angle in the right light), then the tuners and truss rod cover should cover most of it.
Most of the clear on the face of the headstock is the original, and gentle rubbing back hasn't completely gone through or affected anything underneath.
When I do the front, I'll just poly wipe the lot, like the reverse and neck, and it should all look like one (I hope...)
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nice one Stan, should come up a treat after the last clear coat, glad it worked out
