And the photo which didn’t attach to the last post.
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And the photo which didn’t attach to the last post.
Looking good.
That is going to be a fine thing.
Thanks for comments folks and opinions on truss rod. I’ve taken Simon’s advice and added a backing to the truss rods, a thin piece of brass hinge which I’ll never need.
Relived to test the neck break angle to find it is about exactly where I wanted it to line up with the floating bridge after all the adjustments I made. Thank goodness for that.
That's good news. It will be a happy new year for you after all!
I’ve found this soft spot on the side of the body. It gives a little when I press on it. The cracks were filled with poly previously but seem to have reappeared. I don’t really think I can do anything about it.
That's a right PITA! Hard to do much about it without taking it down to the wood again. But it's ply sided, so structurally it should still be strong. Possibly movement due to the really hot weather. Might be worth just waiting a few months until it cools down a bit, then sand back a bit and apply more poly over the top.
I think a layer in the ply is separating and if I go back down to wood I would probably end up sanding through the layer and cause other problems. Not 100% sure. PITA alright.
Traditional cures for delam ply include injecting epoxy resin with a hypodermic. Much more difficult than it sounds due to viscosity. Feel for you, I think pragmatically all I would do for now is monitor the situation.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
You might manage to inject with thin CA, but it's likely to run out and make a real mess, and you'd still need to find a good method of clamping it flat. You could make a complete outer mould to do so, but that's a lot of work.
I feel like injection with something will be the only long term solution. At the risk of making a mess of it I think I should give it a go.
Well, good luck. I would be inclined to try boat building epoxy rather than cyanoacrylate, simply because its much better at gap filling. I'm trying to think, though, of a good way of exploring what might be going on and where you would need to fill, and not coming up with any ideas I like. Drilling half a dozen 4mm holes round the affected area would certainly enable you to explore what's going on, but feels like a cure that is far worse than the disease. Does careful tapping with a pencil tell you anything useful in terms of the sound?
But surely you want to re-attach the layers in a close-fitting manner, not just fill in the gaps between them leaving things proud?
I must admit to not knowing what's actually achievable here, but I know what I'd like to achieve.
That would be good, but how to do it? I can't think of a way to clamp it all together... And not knowing exactly what's gone wrong doesn't help. TBH that's why if it were mine my inclination would be to monitor it, and only intervene if really forced.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Can you beg or borrow some kind of industrial endoscope to get a sight of what's visible on the inside? I would like to know if anything is visible there. Might give some clues.
I should shut up at this point, because the level of expertise and experience required is almost certainly way beyond my capabilities. Nothing worse than suggestions from people who can talk the talk, but not walk the walk.
Progress shot. Sliced along the splits and dug a scalpel around the soft patch. Used a needle and syringe to inject super glue into the wood. Didn’t create as much visible damage as I expected so far. As you can see the position is right where my right arm would be resting and I didn’t want my arm to catch and splinter the area and make me all kinds of unhappy.
Exthellent work Thir! Though i think it could uth a few boltth and thitches...Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Sanded back, a little mahogany in with some poly. Oops, don’t go over the purfling, and I think I will get away with it once I’ve built the layers back up.
You'll get the nice finish back.
Good work.
If anyone knows me, you’ll know by now I’ll make a scratch plate, stuff it up, make another one and then not use it.
However, the neck angle is quite a bit higher on this axe so this time it may be of use.
Neck finished, just fixing some patches on the body, and then waiting...
Nice looking pickguard! I have yet to try making one myself.
And I see you're getting in your ballet practice too.
Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
Just having a bit of fun, kuanjb.
Pick guard finished with satin poly to match the tailpiece and mocked up to see what it will look like. Pretty much waiting for the next three weeks to pass.
And here is the photo I didn’t attach to the previous post.
Phew! Spares me adding any Charlie Chaplin references.Quote:
Originally Posted by kuanjb
cheers, Mark.
[edit] Nice lookin' guitar DarkMark.
Can't be far off hearing what it sounds like...could feature in a C.C. movie as it stands.
Thanks Casey,Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Didn’t CC write the music for the song, “Smile”? Perhaps I should sound demo that one lol.
Dunno. Did Marcel Marceau do a cover of it?Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
cheers, Mark.
Looks great, almost Art DEco. A mate of mine built a guitar which this head stock would almost match perfectly. I will try and get a pic.
Post a photo:)Quote:
Originally Posted by caseyone1
That is looking all kinds of beautiful!
Thanks Drew. It’s got some freckles on the side now but I’m honestly not bothered. You’ve got to mock it up and take a step back once in a while to appreciate what you are doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
This is looking so good DM!
I post this hoping that others will avoid this mistake.
The plastic kit nut from which I used as a guide for my headstock veneer is wider than my ALLPARTS bone nut.
I have ordered an acoustic bone bridge to glue to the back of the nut to fill the gap.
I've had that come up a few times on other peoples guitars. Did a similar fix - I cut a thin strip of black plastic and glued it to the nut to take up space to the truss rod cover. Ends up looking pretty neat.
Wet sanding. Some of my later layers must of been applied on a surface without enough key, or the product was being to oxides, or something. When I started sanding I found that they didn’t adhere very well and I had to sand them off. Having said that, they didn’t come off easily either. I went down to 800 wet and dry, 1200 and 1500. I think the problem is resolved and my right ring finger is literally bleeding. I’ll stop now and do the 2000 another day.
Sounds like a good idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
...though bloodstains could add an interesting effect to the finish ;)
Neglected the family for most of the day to get somewhere on this guitar. It didn’t polish up as well as I hoped, even after sanding pads, but it is was what it is. Lots of cleaning up and setting up to do plus nut to come. Couldn’t resist putting some strings on. Expect it might benefit from pre amp or acoustic amp. I will take it into a guitar shop down the track and test these things.
Turns out that the tailpiece is a terrible place to put a pickup...whoever would of guessed? Pinginess and low volume.
I have cut a slot under the bridge extending the gap for the unit to be glued into. Almost finished, hurry up nut!
And to show you what an idiot I am...I measured the length of the screws for the tuner pegs, not taking into account the thickness of the metal side, and drilled right through the side of the headstock.I might just leave it there to remind me what an idiot I am. Not that I need any reminding.