That’s looking very nice now Maxence, great work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Volgar
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That’s looking very nice now Maxence, great work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Volgar
I would like to put two SSL-1 from Seymour Duncan on my guitar, but I don't know what Humbucker to put with, do you have an idea?
If you are buying Seymour Duncan, and you have already chosen vintage strat-style single coils, then I'd suggest something that's still vintage and clear sounding.
Measure your bridge string spacing to check, but you'd probably benefit from getting a Trembucker spaced pickup, and I'd suggest a '59 Trembucker as it's a thicker, sound than the single coils, but still has clots of clarity and won't give too big a jump in volume when selected.
You don't want anything too powerful as the drop in volume when you switch to vintage-style single coils will be considerable. A more powerful bridge pickup really requires hotter single coils.
Alternatively you could fit a humbucker-sized P90, so for Seymour Duncan that would be a Phat Cat. That would keep things cleaner still, but still have enough power if you wanted some drive tones. A P90 is a better general lead pickup than a Strat bridge pickup in my opinion.
I didn't know this Trembucker!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I(ll surely go on that!
I also have a question:
I will start to install the tremolo, but, watching the video (for stratocaster), I see that the holes are already drilled while it is not the case for mine: /
https://i.imgur.com/gpIzIaF.jpg
Do you know if this is normal and how should I do it?
Thank you
Hi Maxence, I can see the holes in the plate in you picture, do you mean there are no holes through the trem block? If this is the case then you should email Adam at PBG as that would mean the trem has a defect. You should be able to feed a string in through the bottom of the block and out through the string saddle, if not, it’s never going to work!
I actually got this :Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
https://i.imgur.com/FuM8lpd.jpg
And I don’t know how to put it on thé body, I don’t know if there is error ^^
Unscrew the posts from the inserts. The inserts need to be pushed into the holes - using a clamp and squeezing them in is better than tapping them in with a hammer. If you have to use a hammer, use a wooden block on top of the bushing and use a lot of small taps, not a few big ones. The bushings are the correct way up in the picture above. Push them all the way in until the tops of the bushings are level with the body.
When you are ready to fit the bridge, screw the height adjustment posts in a small amount. You'll need to screw the trem claw to the front of the tremolo spring rout on the bottom of the guitar. I don't know if you can fit the bridge with the posts fully screwed in. If you can, then just slot the trem block into the slot in the body and the front of the bridge onto the two posts, then screw the bridge height posts in further.
You can then turn the guitar over, holding onto the bridge so it doesn't fall out, and then fit the tremolo springs from the claw to the end of the trem block.
If the rest of the guitar is ready, you can then string it up.
If you haven't set one up before, there are lots of videos how to set up a Strat-style trem on YouTube. You should be able to find some in French which will make it easier for you to understand. It's not hard, but just takes a little patience and time a sther's a lot of spring tension adjustment and re-tuning involved.
You may have to lower the
Ok, I need to put the finest on the front or the back?Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
For the moment, I only can put the finest part in the hole
I start to put them, I was forced to use a hammer and a block of wood, the holes can barely pass the thin part ! :/
https://i.imgur.com/Z8YbfZs.jpg
You'll need to keep tapping them in. Sorry I didn't see this earlier, Its a good idea to put those metal bits in the freezer for a while to shrink them slightly and use wax as a bit of lube.
Then the bridge sits against the posts like this:
https://i.imgur.com/d08Wj9ml.jpg
And you use the claw and springs to retain it like this.
https://i.imgur.com/VaqWLgJl.jpg
Ok, thanks ! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Double check to make sure the holes are drilled deep enough to accommodate the bushings too.
Do you think it's deep enough like that? It starts to be seriously difficult to type without damaging the paint (it's damaged now)
https://i.imgur.com/UFhAcLW.jpg
I also removed the back cover of my personal stratocaster to get a real-life view of how to install the tremolo! :)
https://i.imgur.com/Yq6ZGjV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qmAsNtQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2lowAb8.jpg
I'd say the post revivers are about right now and yep, basically the same as the strat for the springs and claw.
Here's the tremolo !
Is it good ?
https://i.imgur.com/BQM29B4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W34VJtK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MJ5pGom.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vVnEbg9.mp4
OK , I am no expert at all with these bridges, but I think it should be sitting flush. This means you might need to tap the receivers in a little further. You may need to use a 'punch' or 'drift' to tap them in a bit without further damaging the finish.
There are a couple of ways to set these up (Floating/NonFloating) so you might need to do a bit of off site research to work out what you want to do. Heres one article I found:
http://diystrat.blogspot.com.au/2011...atocaster.html
I just guessed and fiddled with mine and it seems fine for what I want.
I think what you have there would still work, but someone else might have some better information for you.
I remove the tremolo and do what you ask me to do and it's way much better ! The tremolo is now as comfortable as my strat ! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
https://i.imgur.com/ZrjEOZ5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FW5Pxg3h.jpg
https://vimeo.com/252790707
And here's an actual mock build 😍
https://i.imgur.com/XChO8i9.jpg
Yep That looks right now. Overall its really starting to come together. Well done.
Looking really nice Maxence great job :)
Thank you ! :D
Looking good!
C’est bon Maxence! That is looking wonderful in your mock build! Great job.
Today, I finished all the welds!
I had done it during the painting, but a lot of cables were unsoldered!
Welds and basic cables look rather poor and I will replace all this when I have some time for more safety! :)
So I had to find where the cables had to be soldered and tried to make my logic work! :)
I think everything is good!
We are getting really close to the end!
I still have to drill the screw holes for the pickguard, those of the tuners, put my decal on the handle and oil it with tru-oil (which should arrive between Tuesday and next Friday)
https://i.imgur.com/l9puj1Z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KbC762G.jpg
Hello ! I currently have a small problem: I am currently drilling the holes to screw the handle and it turns out that when I put the biggest rope, it touches even when I adjust the height to the maximum (I do not have still screwed the neck) after comparing with my stratum I wondered if the handle was not too thick? If not, do you know what it could be? Thank you !
https://i.imgur.com/jweeW6o.jpg
OR maybe it’s the tremolo ?
https://i.imgur.com/yPS4M48.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EX01HPz.jpg
It's a bit difficult to tell from the photos where abouts is your string contacting? Is it sitting on the frets?
When I try to have no sound from 0 to 5 and sound(with freeze) for the restQuote:
Originally Posted by Grubsta
https://i.imgur.com/QdRtRCJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/537gBRJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hlWbUIFh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fiJKZ2Kh.jpg
I would raise the two tremolo posts up by a few mm.
Also, make sure that the neck has a slight concave bow in it (like the top picture), and not a convex one (bottom picture).
Attachment 24466
But you are also not going to get a true picture of how the guitar is set up until you fit all the strings and get the correct tension on the neck. That will add more of a concave curve to the neck and help raise the strings away from the frets.
You should now be at the stage where you can screw the neck on properly rather than clamp it.
After rise the tremolo spots, nobody change ! :/Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I don't have the special straightedge and I don't really know how to check the neck without it ! :/
Also,
I'm currently building a kit of JMA-1L and I have the ambition to buy three pickups of Seymour Duncan to replace those of bases:
- SSL-1L
- SSL-1L RW / RP
- TB-59
I sent an email to support Seymour Duncan who told me:
I'm looking for potentiometers 250k on the site Musikding but don't know which ones to take,Quote:
500k volume, but 250k tones, as the volume hits all pickups but the tones only hit middle and neck in standard HSS wiring setup. This will keep the bridge bright and the singles clear!
RWRP middle and regular neck will be the correct combination for all the pickups to play nicely together
Can you help me with that to ?
I would use the larger size potentiometers - 24mm. All the makes of potentiometer are good ones. CTS is the brand that most US guitar manufacturers use. Volume potentiometers should always be log/audio taper types. With tone potentiometers, you have a choice between using log and linear pots depending on whether toy want a fast of slower acting tone control. With single coils, I'd normally choose potentiometers with a log characteristic. For Fender-style knobs you really need a split shaft with splines to guarantee that the knobs will fit on well, so https://www.musikding.de/Bourns-Pot-...0k-log-knurled
If you never use the tone controls, then it doesn't really matter whether they are linear or log.
You can check the general amount of bow in the neck by holding down the bottom E string at the 1st and 17th frets. This needs to be done with all the strings on and tuned. You can then look at the height of the string above the 7th fret. For a standard set-up, there should be between 0.5mm and 1mm of gap between the fret and the string. Any more than 1mm and the neck needs to be straightened (truss rod nut turned clockwise/to the right). If there's no gap, then the truss rod nut needs to be loosened (truss rod nut turned anti-clockwise/to the left).
Unless the truss rod nut is very loose, never turn it more than 1/4 turn at a time. Check the result, then wait a few minutes then check again (as it can take a little while for the neck to fully respond to the change in truss-rod tension). Check the amount of neck bow again and if necessary, make another adjustment (again 1/4 turn maximum) After any change in the truss rod nut position, check the amount of bow. Once you're happy, then leave the neck overnight and check again the next day, as sometimes the neck continues to move a little bit.
This may not fully solve the string height issue, but you need to get the neck bow set up correctly before knowing what the next steps to take are.
Hi Maxence,
The bridge is a floating design. It does not need to sit on the body.
On the JM-1L I built, the bridge is 4 to 5 mm above the body.You can see the gap in the photo.
Attach the neck with the screws and then wind the posts out until you get no fret buzz.
Attachment 24479
This link is a better photo of the bridge.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...2&d=1508666479
Hi !
I'm currently adjusting truss rod and I need to loosen it, it's actually convex !
Do you have some advice ?
Someone told me that I had to loosen one-eighth of a turn each time,
but someone also told me that to loosen up, there was no restriction
What time should I take between each release?
I confess that I'm not at all comfortable with the truss rod! : /
I searched dozens of tutorials on the internet but I do not really understand.
I know that my handle is convex, it's not really hard to guess (The first strings do not even ring because they touch the band, even empty but the last strings sound pretty much), but in what direction?
I am told to turn counter-clockwise, but in relation to which axis? Currently I turned a quarter of a turn from the right if we place on the side of the body as in this picture:
Is it good ?
Do you have any advice for me?
Thank you ;)
So if you were to look down the neck from the tuners towards the guitar body - right is clockwise left is counter clockwise.
It's like a normal screw or bolt "Righty-Tighty" "Lefty-Loosey" (I'm not sure how well that will translate :) )
To flatten the neck you need to tighten the truss rod. Do a 1/4 of turn and then leave it. Overnight is best but a couple of hours is OK. Re-check it and adjust again if necessary.
We are trying to make fine adjustments with wood, which as a natural material has its own behaviours. It takes time for it to settle down after any adjustment, so just do a little bit at a time. You will find that even after you finish the guitar that it will need fine tuning and adjusting as it settles in with the string tension.
Unfortunately its another thing that just needs a bit of care and patience.
If you have a convex neck, then I'd ease it off a bit more than 1/4 turn at a time. I'd suggest 1/2 turn to start with. You need to go beyond a straight neck so that you can get a concave curve in the neck. You then want to tighten the truss rod to pull the neck flatter so that you've only got a small amount of convex curve in the neck. That's when you don't want to make big adjustments as a small amount of turn can make a big difference when you are nearly at the correct neck curve. So 1/4 turn maximum but give it less of a turn if you are almost there.
Just like a machine head/tuner, where you always want to tune up to a note so the gears are always under tension, you want to tighten up to the correct neck tension, not slacken off. If you go too far and the neck gets too flat, then loosen the truss rod off a bit so you've got a decent amount of concave bow and then slowly work back up to just a small amount of bow.
Once you think you are there, re-tune the guitar, then leave it overnight and check the neck curve again the next day. You may need to do a small amount of adjustment once the neck has settled down.
Hello !
Here are some news but no pictures! ;)
I received tru oil and bought a set of strings GHD 10-42 (My dealer has no more D'addario: '() to have more comforts of play! :)
I am currently waiting to receive the decals before oiling the neck and also the shielding tape that should not delay! ;)
I finally managed to properly adjust my truss rod, the height of my strings and harmonics, it's comfortable as I like it! :)
Since I have already installed my new set of strings and I don’t want to remove them so quickly, shield my guitar and connect the earth to the bridge (I forgot it) is not going to be a trivial matter! I will probably relax the strings up, it should be enough! What do you think about it ?
Hello everyone !
I have to put the tru oil but I ordered without making white decals instead of transparent, would it be possible to put the decals after?
The time I order and receive transparencies?
thank you
You would normally put some coats of Tru-oil on first, then put the decals on, then more coats of Tru-oil over the top. So you can start to put the Tru-oil on, but I wouldn't put more than 4 coats on the headstock before adding the decals. You'll want several coats of Tru-oil over the decals to protect them and have enough depth to sand the Tru-oil flat then polish it once it's cured.