Very sultry looking axe Kick. Maybe not as bright as you initially planned but that last mock build shot was a stunner.
With a high gloss finish it will really come to life.
Cheers, Waz
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Very sultry looking axe Kick. Maybe not as bright as you initially planned but that last mock build shot was a stunner.
With a high gloss finish it will really come to life.
Cheers, Waz
You are right Simon; she came out a lot darker then I originally went for but along the way I kind of liked the dark look more and more. I'll leave the binding as it is now because I also love that contrast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
The 3D printing of a trusrodcover in red with black texting won't work (for some technical reasons). I'll stick to a blank trusrodcover and I'm gonna print a black and a red one to see which one is looking better.
And I just ordered the blackmetal with red acrylic inlayed Ringo knobs from QParts:
https://www.qparts.com/media/catalog...pearl_dblk.jpg
I hope they gives her that extra touch ;)
Nice knobs!
Thanks Simon, hopefully it won't take to long to receive them.
Question; is it me or are the screws that come in the kit for the strapholders a bit tiny? I ask this because I want to hang my guitar on some rig and therefore I wanted to drill the hole at the bottom of the body (where to strapholder will be) and screw in some hook to hang the guitar. But when I checked if I wouldn't drill the hole to wide I noticed that the screws delivered with the kit are so small that I do not dare to hang the guitar on such a small hook.
Looking at the screws on my Fenders and Epi I see that they are a lot bigger and thus stronger...
Ok, I managed to create some rig using my wife easel (I hope that is the correct word for it). Point is, we live on a ship. There's a nasty thing with a ship; it moves up and down depending on the wind and other ships that passes by creating waves.
So I had to think of something whereby some movement is not a problem. So I took the easel, clamped a block of wood on it, drilled a hole with a drill that has a smaller diameter of the tunerhole and leave the drill in the block so it can be used as a hook. So now she is hanging from the headstock, free to move in all directions.
I just applied the fourth coat and hopefully I will see some gloss in the near future :)
Goodmorning folks!
I just checked the Red Widow and the fourth coat is almost cured. But no sign of any gloss yet.... I wonder if this is caused by the fact that I stained the body. I'm a little confused now if I did things right :(
Or am I overconcerned and should I just continue with applying coats?
I'd give it a light sand with 1000 or 1200 wet and dry paper before the next coat. I don't like steel wool,tiny bits of steel can imbed in your surface. I haven't used poly but with spray acrylic I get the surface silky smooth before the next coat once I have enough depth that I know I cant sand through it.
Hi Dedman, I also feel a bit reluctant to use that steelwool and I think I'll forget about that.
I'm using Tung oil for the coat and I think using 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper is only appropriate when there is some coat that stands of of the stain. But for now it is as if the oil is complety soaked into the body and neck and when it is cured it is almost as if I hadn't applied anything...
I guess there must be some point where the oil hardens on the body instead of soaking into it...
defiantly keep coating then!
Hey Kick as Deddy says keep applying coats
some french polishers use a green scourer instead of steel wool. they wet the scourer with oil and rub it in
Ok guys, I'll keep putting coats on ;)
Hi Kick, Are you using polymerized Tung Oil? Using Brasso for the final polishing will really bring out the shine too...just be sure to polish all of it off the body and pockets.
I really don't know if it is polymerized Tung oil. The sticker on the bottle doesn't mention anything the substance other than Tung Oil...Quote:
Originally Posted by ILRGuitars
And I can only start polishing if there is a coat to polish. I just checked the body; last layer is totally cured but no sign of any gloss yet. So no polishing for me...
Ahhh....You may be using 'standard' Tung Oil (no polymer added). That stuff is used for deckings,etc and won't produce a sealed coat. Had the same problem on my first build. Fear not! TruOil or polymerized Tung Oil will go straight over the top and produce a sealed coat that will harden. Further coats can be added if required.
Are you really not kidding me? :(
That explains why I do not see anything happening...
So now I need to get me True oil or polymerized (whatever that may be) Tung oil.
Thanks mate! You just stopped me worrying thinking I was doing something wrong ;)
I found a weapondealer in The Netherlands (never knew we had someting like this in my country) that sells Birchwood True Oil. Will a bottle of 90ml be sufficient?
Hi Kick, I usually can do 2 guitars from one of those small bottles. After about 6 thick coats I revert to 50% mineral turps to 50% Tru Oil and that makes it go a lot further plus helps with levelling things out. To bring on the smooth finish and shine suggest applying with 1500 grit wet & dry paper as that helps to wet sand as you apply the finish. A great trick that takes a bit of practice to get right but well worth the effort.
Cheers, Waz
Thanks Waz! I'm going to order right now :)
No worries mate. It's all a learning experience. The work you have done so far will help to seal the body anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kick
Love the build so far....and loved The Netherlands when I was there. Can't beat a Bulldog Cafe!
Haha, The Bulldog is one of Amsterdams notorious pub. Use to be the hangout of motorcycle gangs but nowadays all kind of people are visiting that place.
And thanks again for the advice! Really am assured now that I'll get my glossy and shiny Red Widow!!
Notorious? Just misunderstood! haha
Ok, little update: tomorrow I can pickup my bottle of True Oil at the local GLS office and I have seen on the trackingpage of the Dutch postal services that my Q-Parts knobs have arrived at customs and that I have to pay the additional VAT and clearing costs of €25,05. This above the shipping cost of USD 35,00 from the US to The Netherlands. And the knobs only cost me USD 32,00....
Anyway, looking forward to some nice things!
The tru oil should work a treat and it dries really quickly. Thats all I have used on the back of my build and I think its come up sweet.
Yes! Finally got a little gloss on the Red Widow :)
I started with the back of the body and neck just to find out how the TO works and indeed, it is simple as applying, rubbing and done. This morning I applied the first coat on the front of the body and headstock and I am now waiting for it to cure. And waiting is difficult...
Upcoming Tuesday I'll receive my Q-Parts knobs and hopefully they look awesome :)
I'll take some pics later with a mock build.
Haha! I think we all can imagine waiting is difficult.:D
I'm curious about the result!
I have applied several coats of the Tru Oil and instead of getting a nice smooth glossy finish it seems as if the softer wood of the veneer wont take the True Oil. So the effect is like a dark red kind of 'leather' look.
it could be that the Tung Oil that I used before makes this behaviour of the veneer. I really don't know what to do now. I am afraid that sanding won't help and that it will make it even more bad/awkward.
I can pick up the new knobs tommorow and I'll take some pictures for you to see what I mean... Hopefully one of you guys have seen this before and will tell me what I can do.
Oh no.. sorry to hear that Kick.. I have only used the tru oil on necks. I have never used the tung oil. I am sure Simon or dingo or one of the other guys will have a solution for you. You should check out my number 3 build thread and see my big mess up with a router...
Anyways good luck and I'm sure it will work out great.
it will take a lot of coats of TO, I think I did about 20 with light sandings after the first 5 or6 before it started to level off and gloss.
Pretty much what deddy said Kick. If you didn't grain fill, it will soak in on some bits and flatten on others. The TO is amber in colour so it does have an effect on the stain. The TO also goes layer upon layer, so like Deddy said, just build up the layers then sand out the ridges, then build up the layers, then sand flat. My LP1-SS was very ripply so it took a LOT of layers before I got it glossy and straight. I use the micro mesh pads to sand flat too. Good luck mate
Thanks Dedman and Andy. You restored my hope for a happy ending.
Anyway, the knobs are finally in and as promised I made some pictures for you.
First two are from a distance to see the whole body:
http://www.webferrets.nl/images/other/kit/50.jpg
http://www.webferrets.nl/images/other/kit/51.jpg
And two close-up's.
http://www.webferrets.nl/images/other/kit/52.jpg
The last is showing the glitter in the abalene in the knobs which I very much like. And on this image you can also clearly see where the softer darker parts of the wood are still rough and edgy.
http://www.webferrets.nl/images/other/kit/53.jpg
Those knobs are awesome... I hope after several more coats that it will level off. It's looks like it is the grain on the quilting that is just soaking up the oil. You may want to try using some 1200 grit wet dry and rub the oil in with that and see if it levels off those bits.. anyways looks killer I quite like the darker tone makes it look more sinister..
Thanks Drummerdude, I also love that dark red. Sinister is the perfect way to describe the Red Widow ;)
I'll see if I can get my hands on that 1200 grit wet'n'dry sandingpaper and see what it does. Thanks!
most of my builds look like that after the first few coats Kick, don't worry. give it a very light sand, a few more coats, another light and and before you know....glossy!
Wow! You have rubbed the funky on that! I LOVE IT! Keep going with the tru oil as Dedman has said, and that gloss will come up.
hey Kick looks awesome and the control knobs are unreal, really suit the theme of the axe.
Are you giving the TO plenty of curing time ? as other said a 1200 sand and keep applying TO
I rubbed mine down using 2000 wet/dry and white spirits. The top came up super smooth, then another couple of light coats of warmed up TO
Thanks guys for the compliments and the advice on the TO.
I'll continue with doing as you all say; more coats and sanding with wet and dry 1200 grit sanding paper. Or higher if I can get my hands on it.
I have knob envy....I'm seeking help
Kick i don't think you need to worry about how the end result will turn out. Looks unreal now and every little bump along the way you have overcome thus far. Im sure you will conquer the tru oil too.