Drying, that is all.
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Drying, that is all.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...17eeab4e5d.jpg
Some very tentative clear coat sanding
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e65ec7e56.jpg
I think you can see why
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...80384684d6.jpg
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Looks like it needs a few more coats...
Slowly getting there!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b54ec8b33.jpg
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Hi Frankie, just caught up on past few month's progress and impressed with how it is coming along. That fretboard looks awesome.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9cbfdaafdd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dce8dbefa8.jpg
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Yeah, that’s what I get for not flattening before clear. Ah well, it gives me something to do and keeps Igor out of morgues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I'd let Igor do the flattening work. After all, he is the body expert.
All good stuff.
That clear coat sanding would make me very, very nervous. It's looking really fantastic though
Cheers John, I was mindful of the decals and the step between the colour borders so it had better than a can and a half of clear on it before I went near it with sand paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnH
Thanks Waz, pretty happy with how it came up. Cutting the nut shelf down this evening was fun though, taking a chisel to an almost completed custom Ebony fretboard. It made me a tad bit uncomfortable.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Mmm sharp chisels like cutting fingers
Fingers mercifully intact, left hand stays on chisel shank during that operation. I’ve no wish to learn Django’s style out of necessity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
Well that's not good....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9942b6d8b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a5c2e3a926.jpg
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Holy crap, is that fretboard lifting?
Not good. At least you're in a position to re-glue it. Maybe with something stronger? It's not something you want to come apart or take apart again.
I left it upstairs through today, which I think caused the issue. It gets stupid hot upstairs during the day rather than the cool even temp of the Lab.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I am going to leave it and decide how best to attack it. I feel the board will have to come off and be cleaned up if I have to switch glues.
At least Igor will be used to taking necks apart.
Warmth is Titebond's Kryptonite.
Better to find out now than later.
Oh, bugger. At least it happened earlier rather than later. What a pain
.....and in a troubling turn of events, once back in the FrankenLab for over night cogitation......this ....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f010776ad1.jpg
If nothing else it confirms my suspicion that the board has to come off to rectify the issue.
I just really don't want to have to try it and funk up the work I've done on the board or the inlay.
Sad face/grumpy face/lopsided face (that's Igor)
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I don't think you'll ruin anything. You just need to get the board off and stick it back on again accurately. You can do it.
And tell Igor to take the grin off the back off his head.
So I couldn’t resist a mock build.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...88699be012.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...17e52e101f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c33770067c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55a52b6632.jpg
There’s still a final polish to do, as well as probably another couple of thin clears on the back of the head stock.
This was my first effort with rattle cans, and it took a great deal of patience and a lot of trial and error. I’m not 100% happy with the state of it. A lot of that is to do with the quality of the work, some of it with the durability of the clears. We shall see how it weathers some abuse,
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That looks really good. The fretboard and new scratchplate are great
Cheers mate, I’m 50/50on the paint, but I’m pretty happy with how the graphics and inlays turned out. It was a first for me with both.
That’s slick FrankenWashie! I like the idea of a themed guitar. You’ve put so much good work into this.
Thanks DarkMark, I know a lot more about paint finishes than when I started. Like most of the stuff in the FrankenLab, it’s mostly trial and error....lots and lots of error....Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Looks great man.
Looks awesome Franky, great work!
Is it a satin clear you used on that? I’ve got an upcoming project that I’m hoping to keep the gloss to a minimum on and it looks like you e achieved the finish I’m after.
cheers Von, no it is actually a gloss, I just haven’t gone hard at the polishing yet (because I have no polish! Have fixed that today).Quote:
Originally Posted by VonScott
im going to see how it comes up with some scratchX and meguiars ultimate. If it evens out the scratching and gives a little more shine I’ll be happy I’m not chasing a mirror gloss as I’m just going to beat it senseless anyway.
Ah ok, good to know! I’ll keep an eye on this thread to see how it turns out.
I would probably hesitate to use the Rustoleum Clear again, it seems a bit delicate. I noticed when mounting the strap buttons and clearing the cover plate screw holes that it chipped quite easily. Similar story with the recessed trem spring cover plate edges.Quote:
Originally Posted by VonScott
I will chase down a more durable clear for the next one (Cabothane has come up a few times in threads, and there is always Automotive stuff)
I agree re the rustoleum clear, the colours are great but the clear seems to stay soft for longer. The Cabothane I think you will like. I'd not use the automotive stuff over enamel as horrid things can happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
IF I went Automotive stuff it would be the whole shooting match. Base coats, colours and topcoats, that way you should have no problems with compatability etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Agreed. You certainly get a bigger range of colours!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Froyd Lose knock off trems suck. I am fiddling and faddling with this sumbeech and he no play nice. Get the strings up to pitch and the whole trem rises up at an unacceptable angle. If I try to tighten the spring claw it is almost as if the springs are not up to scratch as they cannot counter the string pull. I’m going to add a couple of springs and see if it makes a difference.
I had none of these issues with the genuine FR on the FrankenWashie. That thing is solid as a rock even with whammy abuse, this I kit one is .....less than optimal.
Well it is more or less, for a given value of done, done.
It plays well. The neck feels great under hand and as a bonus the fretboard hasn’t fallen off under string tension. Yet.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...68ad52abbb.jpg
The Froyd Lose trem is a pig. It took Five springs to counteract the string pull, and I’ve only strung it with the kit 9-42 set.
My norm is somewhere north of 10-52, so crap knows how this is going to deal with that.
As soon as budget allows I think the trem may be getting swapped out for a Genuine FR.
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You could try a f r special, they are a lot better than the knock offs and only about 80 dollars. They will also accept a brass block and have a steel locking nut.
I found the Allen screws are way too soft and the heads strip on the copies, as well as the locking nut stripping threads.
I haven't had your problem with the knock off which is still on my SV1, have you got any spare springs from old kits to swap out for the ones you have on there?
i had a couple of spare Froyds, as I needed to get another for the IB-Freebie, so I had a selection of springs to choose from. The two I fitted seemed tighter coiled than the three originals so we’ll let it shift and settle and see where it ends up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
you are right about the Allen screws, though I have a fairly good supply of spares. I will hunt around for a FR at a good price, as I posted before, the FR on my FrankenWashie is solid and unyielding, far better, though it cost more than the SV kit.