Im not a guru but these might help...Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
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Im not a guru but these might help...Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
Attachment 12722 Attachment 12723 Attachment 12724
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I'd never get sick of staring at that splamed top...... soo good.
Haha, very good point!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
[QUOTE=nitroburner1000;112893]Im not a guru but these might help...
Attachment 12723
Thanks Nitro, I don't mind this one, but for this build, I'm thinking just monochrome at this point.
Thanks for the input though, most appreciated!
Agreed, it's probably why I find myself in the guitar room so often staring at it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Wowser.
Been absent for a few days and what a pleasant surprise. Definitely agree that spalt & flame top was too good to hide under a colour.
Your logo # 1 retains the 'Q' however the chrome looking one looks good and maybe you could do something similar in MS paint?
Thanks Waz, I'll see what I can come up with
Progress report....
First coat of Intensifier applied last night to the front and headstock.
No photos because it really doesn't look that different yet.
Looking at the the front veneer on an angle, I seem to have a couple of flat shiny spots. I know they have intensifier and stain on them, but I never noticed them before, and it is only at the extreme angle that they are visible.
Couple of questions.
I didn't use any 0000 steel wool before applying the Intensifier, can/should I do that before applying the second coat?
Can clear DT Intensifier be used over water based stain? If so, what should I expect as a result? I'm thinking of applying it to the back of the guitar where I put the black stain.
Best to wait for Andy40 to respond as he has more practice and experience with DT than myself.
I found that 0000 steel wool just rolled the intensifier up into to tiny gummy sticky balls of crud and that light wet sanding with 1500 or 2000 did a better job without the dramas. And yes, I too experienced the flat shiny spots you are referring to.
For the intensifier over water based stain try a sample on a bit of scrap timber to see how it goes. Always best to experiment or practice on scrap timber just to be sure before attempting something different or that you are unsure about.
Hi Zandit,
Sorry just saw your post now. Just remember DB's the guru on Dingotone but I can offer my thoughts on my experiences.
You will find that as the wood becomes more saturated you will get glossy patches of DT on parts of the guitar once the final stain coats cure and definitely as you go through the intensifying coats. Don't freak out, this is normal and don't try to overcorrect by applying more on the non-glossy coats. Once you apply your fist thin coat of finals the patches will immediately even out (dissappear).
I do not use steel wool anymore on DT. I agree with Waz for the same reasons and just use 1200 grit or 2000 grit wet sand in the direction of the grain to smooth any lumpy bits.
I tried water base stain with DT finals, it doesn't work. DB called me a muppet. Which was true.
Its ok if you didn't smooth out between the stain coats and intensifier (usually the stain coats don't lump up anyway).
Wait for the intensifier coats to cure. I would say that 5 days would be the minimum you would wait between intensifier coats in tassie. If its not cured, check it after 7, if the intensifier coat is no longer sticky if you push your thumb along it, you're all good.
Apply the intensifier coats a lot thinner than stain coats if you can, if you put them down thinner they will cure faster.
Once dried, the intensifier coats look a bit bumpy if you hold it up to the light. I smooth this out by lightly wet sanding with 1200 grit or 2000 grit and wiping off excess water and sanding waste with paper towel before putting then next coat on.
Unfortunately you can't really tell by looking at the intensifier coats when they are fully cured. but I'll tell you what happens if its not. If its not fully cured, it will be dry to touch and wont rub off on your hand buuuuut when you are wet sanding it will stick to the sand paper (even 2000 grit) and balling up in places. If that happens I would let it cure a bit more before continuing to sand. or just lightly sand a bit more and apply another intensifying coat over the whole guitar and wait a couple of days longer next time. Its not bad, just feels a bit defeating when you just waited a week for it and are pretty excited.
You wont need more than 3 intensifying coats. Sometimes 2 is enough just depends on how much you need to sand back.
Good luck Zandit.
Thanks Guys, most appreciated.
Can I ask what happened to the water based stain after you applied the intensifier coat Andy?
I have a bottle of what I am assuming is Black Stump, could that be used over the stain I have and then apply the intensifier?
Sorry, zandit, just saw your post now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
I was trying DT final coat over a waterbased ink stain. It just never did anything no matter how many coats I put on. DB said that the final coat wont work very well unless applied over either the stain coat or both stain and intensifier coats or another oil based sealer.
I can see that you have used the the British Paints Interior stain which is an oil based stain (isn't it?) and you have filled the timber with ebony timbermate (nice choice). I must say i've never tried to put DT over a different stain. my only worry being that the BP stain would have some solvents in it for drying which may play hovoc with the DT.
If it were me....and only because I'm a sucker for taking forever to do my builds....I'd consider sanding the BP stain off, re-timbermating the mahogany and starting the DT from scratch. Gives you more time to talk to your build.:p
If you are not keen on that idea, post the question on DB's Corner and see what he says. or whack down a coat of your black stump on it and see how crazy it gets! if it doesn't work you can always go back to the drawing board (nothing that can't be undone there!).
A word of advice on the Black Stump. When you first apply the stain coat you may not think its very dark, don't be disheartened, after about 4 stain coats and 3 intensifiers it gets pretty black (even on a maple neck). If you want to see what its like check out AndrewA's PBG build or my SGD-612 build.
The stain I used is water based, and I also have a clear coat that can be used over the top. I could use the same technique for applying it as I did to the stain no doubt, but it has a blueish tint to it. My kitchen table sometimes has a blueish haze to it when seen in certain lights. I didn't do alot of prep work with the table, and I certainly didn't have a mirror finish after I was finished, but I was still happy with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Might be time for some trial work tonight.
I played around with the head stock today. Not sure if I've stuffed it, but it doesn't look too bad. I tried finding a template I could use, but nothing was readily available. I ended up using a socket but it slipped, so the design has grown a little, and is all free hand now.
I also added a silver edge to the truss rod cover just to break things up a little.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psazgz1ygd.jpg
So far, I added two coats of intensifier, as well as applied a small amount on top of my black stain under the heel of the neck. This was just to see what it done to the finish. I'll leave it for a few more days, but so far there has been no reaction between the two products.
Logo came out looking pretty good. Plenty of aftermarket Truss Rod Covers for sale on the net if you want one less angular or a bit more personalised.
head stock actually turned out pretty well, i like the logo
Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Thanks Guys. I was devastated when the socket slipped. I'd practiced it several times before attempting the headstock, but the surface was obviously different.Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
I can live with it though!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
I really like that logo Zandit, looks perfect against the grain back drop on that headstock.
Thanks Frank, most appreciated. The black hardware certainly adds to it as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Looking good Zandit. Nice theme to this axe and love the logo
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Thanks mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
I actually came up with an idea for using this logo for future builds that varies slightly for each one. The downward stroke in the "Q" can be changed with each one. Instead of the single stoke, the next one will have 2 stokes, then 3 etc, maybe even roman numerals could work too.....More planning needed!
I've been doing some research on wiring up the controls and pick-ups, and came across this LP DIY build that does things very different from the videos Adam has on his website.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoWWQvDsfsU
The Capacitors are connected differently, and the Tone pots are earthed the same as the Volume pots by bending the last contact against the pot and soldering it together.
Is one of these incorrect, or are there multiple ways of wiring these systems up?
Multiple ways, replied in your other thread.
For what it is worth from a srictly marketing point of view keep the core logo the same but add roman numerals alongside the head stock. The core logo should stay the same, think any logo you see and they all stay the same buy might have sub text, ie Telecaster/Stratocaster. Car Brands Its a Toyoto but the model is announced for example. If you and another stroke to the core logo it implies its a different company/owner not a different model....Just thoughts.
Try it out on paper and I think you will see what I am talking about,.
I agree to a point, but even Toyota, Coca-Cola, Holden have all changed/evolved their logos over the years. I'll post a photo today of the idea I came up with to show you. It's more a variation on a theme, and since the next build likely be a different style of guitar, it should reflect that change too imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerJM
Unfortunately, I really like the new logo better than the one I have now, but it's too late now.
It's like having an argument with someone, then thinking of all the really good things you could have said after the fact!!
Here you go Badger, a preview of my new design.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psvtvoixlj.jpg
There's a couple of options with the legs through the Q, but I think this is a classier design over what I had before.
nice logo Zandit, in the end it's your idea and guitar, do what makes you happy
Looks good, you will know when you get it the way you want it, try giving yourself a break from it, and I reackon it will just come to you.
I liked this one best of all. It had a bit of a medieval look about it.
Attachment 13100
That's what I tried doing initially, but because the socket slipped that I was using as a template, I had to adjust it on the fly.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I'll be starting the final coat on the front today, so it's staying as it is now!
All cool buddy as the one on the headstock looks equally as good.
First layer of clear Top Coat has gone on. Looking sweet if I do say so myself!!
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...pssmytdurn.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psaeloi8ss.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psk4nzpu1o.jpg
Oooh that's nice!
Wow Zandit. This is one of the nicest spalt kit I've seen!!
That cap is just beautiful. Great choice to go natural Zandit.
Ohh yeah, echo all prior comments. Absolutely stunning in all its naked glory.
That figure is great. Looks like the clear has gone on flat as a tack too. Well done mate.
exceedingly drool-worthy!
Thanks everyone, feeling the love in here!!
I'm feeling something too.... That thing is such a great mix of spalt and flame. You've done it proud.