It'll just make it looked loved...
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It'll just make it looked loved...
This is happening....oh yes....Attachment 16135
Ouch, you only hurt the ones you love.
Is This still happening....oh yes/no?
Weirdy, I may need to post my issues, however, I got everything to work just fine (eventually) except the 6 string pup switch.
i've done something wrong.
First of all I wired it upside down, (I know that much) because when the switch points to the Bridge the Neck pup is on, however, both pups are active in the middle position AND both pups are active in the other position. Its just a standard Pitbull switch.
after spending most of the day on it, I decided to put it down till tomorrow.
I should add that I've followed Brendan's wiring diagram, rather than my bad one.
Assuming it's wired correctly and unless you've got a stray strand of wire shorting two lugs and making a connection, then chances are it's the switch itself. They're a break not make switch, as in the default is both contacts On in the middle position and then it breaks the opposite contact in the up or down position. So, in the neck position it breaks the bridge contact and vice versa. In this case it may not be 'breaking' on one side. If you can confirm it is the switch then you can try prying it open to fix it, it's been done before, but it's far easier to just replace it.
Thanks Weirdy, I've got a spare here to replace if needs be.
Ok so nothing wrong with the switch...just too much solder on one of the joins...cleaned it up and good to go.
Everything worked fine during beta testing.
As soon as the guitar was strung up....nothing.
I wonder if it has anything to do with the earth wires from the bridge posts, i've soldered them directly to the earth at the jack?
You didn't do my trick? Have some of the pot lugs touching the shielding?
Sorted!!! thanks Zandit, no due to my poor soldering effort the solder join from the neck switch to the main earth broke.
Okay, everything sounds great all pups and switches are working.
except for one thing.....
The 6 string is in tune except when i play open chords.
Previously when i have had this issue it means the nut is too high.
Interested to know anyone else's theory:confused:
Hi Andy, same issue I have had on my unfinished Tele.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
When using a chromatic electronic tuner to tune up, playing root chords sound ok, particularly D but when checking across the strings at fifth fret or 5th to 7th harmonics EAD are OK, G sounds a bit off, B sounds even more off and this results in high E ending up sharp when re-tuning the pitch by ear.
This Tele has had 3 nuts and 3 bridges on it plus I have lowered the neck pocket height to bring the action down and that seems to have done the trick. Now strung with 10-46 and been playing it on & off for past month or so to see if it keeps behaving itself. So far so good but having mostly played 9-42's the finger tips get a bit tender.
So how does this relate to your predicament? TOM Bridges don't have much scope for adjustment therefore you probably already got that part sorted and have that lovely spalted LP as a base reference point to work off. This leads me to the next part in that maybe checking how the LP has been setup and then replicating same on the 6 string neck might be the quickest way to getting it sorted. Definitely sounds like action is riding a bit high somewhere and nut would seem to be the most likely culprit but it may be something else. How is the neck angle on the 12 stringer side of things? Are they both the same? Also how deep do they both sit in their neck pockets. With this axe being a bolt-on neck design there are many parts that could need some fine adjustment.
Hope you get it sorted without too much grief and frustration.
So, do you think the nut is too high (as you said 'previously' so I'm assuming you think this one is OK)?
For a well cut nut, the strings should be just a small distance above the first fret, so that they still ring clear but it only takes the lightest pressure and movement to fret the strings. If you can push a string down a bit and it's still not touching the first fret, then in reality it's too high (unless you are setting the guitar up for slide playing, when you want a bit of height there).
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online...lot_Depth.html
0.005" is 0.127mm, 0.010" is 0.254mm, 0.002" is 0.0508mm.
Other possibilities are:
i) That some of the frets have been installed in the wrong place by the factory.
ii) That some of the frets have too flat a top (or a poorly curved top), so that the strings aren't vibrating from the middle of the fret, but more from the front or rear edge.
iii) That one or more of the nut slots are cut so that the string isn't vibrating from the fretboard edge of the nut, but from further back towards the headstock.
Thanks Waz and Simon.
Some good advice there. The reason I assumed that it might be the nut is because on previous builds where i have replaced the plastic nut with a DB bone nut, I have had to file it down to the right height and, in doing, so I noted that when the nut was too high a common symptom was that even though the guitar was tuned correctly, open chords (not barre chords) were out of tune. Waz, I also noticed this issue on my tele when the string trees were too tight or didn't have the proper break angle.
Here, I have used the factory plastic nut (because i am trying) to keep this build as close as possible to the factory standard.
I checked the fret measurements so its not that and it could be a bad fret job (as i did it myself) but i doubt it.
Buuuut, the plastic factory nuts do to me look a little high, I'll measure them today.
thanks
Finished
minor tweaking and intonation needed
Well this is one of my better online purchases I have performed whilst intoxicated. It kept me busy for 9 months and 11 days!
A couple of things:
- This kit is completely PBG stock EXCEPT I pulled apart the pickups swapped the ceramic magnet with alnico 5's and wax potted them. - It has all the other Chinese parts and electrics installed in it, including the strings, which are being a bit temperamental.
- I used Brendan's wiring diagram, which worked perfectly! http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wiring-diagrams/
- If you are considering this kit, you will need to plug the existing jack hole and drill a new one.
- If you are considering a Dingotone burst....do it! take note: Blackstump on Basswood body is uniform with the maple neck!:cool:
- it is finished with Tru oil - sorry DB:(; and
- it weighs 4.5 kg (or 9.9 lbs)
I hope I have inspired Wokks to finish his purple monster.
Attachment 16169
Attachment 16170
Attachment 16171
Attachment 16172
Sound and video demo.
Please note, I shot this with my Iphone and recorded the sound though my Zoom G3 into Audacity. I am not a great guitarist, but you get the general drift of how it sounds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa4lT...ature=youtu.be
nice work Andy, came up a treat buddy and the video sounds great some cool noodling. Must take a while to get used to the size of the body and the twin neck positions.
You have inspired me to finish mine, few more in the queue first ! haha
Thanks Wokks, it does and my weak fingers need to get used to the 12 strings!
I should post one more photo as it related to questions some people had about dingotone.
This is a photo of the jackhole I plugged with a but of pine and some neutral timbermate. after 3 - 4 stain coats and 3 -4 costs of intensifier of Dingotone black stump, I almost cannot see it!
Attachment 16193Attachment 16194
I just watched the demo video of your double-neck SG, she looks really classy, and there's nothing wrong with your playing, you're way better than me, your playing has a great bluesy feel to it, I also like the tones you got out of the guitar, cheers for posting the video mate, one day I might order a PBG double-neck SG.
Looks awesome Andy!
Great demo too!
Lovely work Andy, sounds absolutely silky. Top Job!
Gee, that looks the goods. Fantastic job. Don't think I've ever seen one of these with a burst, but I have to say it beats the classic trans red by a country mile. Love it.
Wow Andy, you have to be happy with that, not only looks great but sounds great as well. pat yourself on the back , well deserved.
Looks fantastic all buttoned up, Andy. That burst looks even better with all the hardware and shinies, great job.
Well, even though you put the 'ding' in Dingotone, it's all come up looking and sounding lovely. A great job and a nice demo video.
If my son was musically inclined I'd send him a pic of this, it would be much safer than the "educational" websites that his browsing history suggests he visits :)
( no I'm not stalking a 37 yr old but the grandson also uses his tablet device and PC so I do tend to investigate before 7 yr old eyes see what's hidden )
Hi Andy, Congratulations on the safe arrival of your newborn after 9 months and 11 days gestation period. Good thing about this one is you won't need to change any nappies, just strings instead.
Looks great and for stock PUP's they sounded really sweet and authentic to that style of guitar. Have you tried playing it with a strap standing up? Reckon it will be plenty neck heavy and you may end up having to move the strap button to help with getting the balance right.
Well done Andy building this guitar was a mammoth effort and it has turned out beautifully. I like the demo, sounds great
Thanks guys for the great comments. It was well worth it.
@DK, I think thats a good thing checking that browser history
@Waz, yep i've changed enough nappies ...ha ha. Yeah i have used the strap, the weight of the 18 tuners kinda outweighs the basswood body, so if Im ever good enough to play this thing at a gig, i'll have to re-position the top strap button.
Cheers Andy.
I found out recently how neck heavy the EX-5 is when using a strap as the only spots for the top strap button are a fair way back towards the middle of the thing. It also has a very, very long neck with 5 tuners hanging off it which doesn't help trying to keep it balanced at a comfortable playing angle. Suppose I will get more used to it over time, will just have to practice more standing up than playing sitting down.
Great achievement mate
G'day Andy,
When you did the burst is it fair to assume that you left the intensifier until after the colours had been laid down or did you intensify each colour as it went down and then I assume you top/final coated the lot in one go.
I'm currently chewing up a lot of bandwidth on YT looking at various stain burst jobs and there doesn't seem to be anything that would match the Dingo Tone experience and a heap of the vids are in anything but english
Hey DK,
Yeah I spent a number of months testing all different types of stains, my conclusion, I would only use colortone or dingtone. I found that inks and furniture stains had a lacklustre effect. So I decided to go with DT as I'm addicted to the aroma:D. Nah it blends really well. but seriously it smells good.:cool:
First, you lay down the stain coats, one on top of each other, a week or so apart (depending on the weather) so they cure really well.
The number of coats depends on how saturated you want the colour.
Then you start on the intensifying coats (thinly), again one on top of each other, definitely a week or so apart, again the number of coats depends on how saturated you want the colour.
Once its smooth and you have the colour you want, you lay down the final coats (very thinly), again one on top of each other, definitely at least week or so apart, the number of coats depends on how thick you want the final coat.
I usually make sure each intensifying coat and final coat is sanded flat by gently sanding with 1200 or 2000 grit before applying the next coat of intensifier or fianl coat.
Just note that I've used tru oil, instead of the DT final coat on this build.
Good luck with your search.
Thanks Andy