It is possible to sharpen blunt files with citric acid so maybe that will work on rasps too.
Google sharpening file with citric acid.
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It is possible to sharpen blunt files with citric acid so maybe that will work on rasps too.
Google sharpening file with citric acid.
Yep. I had been meaning to buy a rasp but hadn't had time, or always remembered later after shops had closed. I've now picked one up and have been using it for further work.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
I really like the shape / design of the S2 guitars. Whether it functions as well as a traditional forearm cut I'm not sure. I see a lot of assembly and disassembly happening to get the look and feel right.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
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More carving. Body slightly reshaped further. Bevels are pretty much done, front and back. As there already were bevels on the back I mostly just adjusted those to match the new outline of the body, but I did add a belly cut, continuing into the bevels.
Lots and lots of sanding to do now.
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Bit of sanding done to clean up the bevels. Looking and feeling pretty good. Some places will need to be filled but overall not too bad.
I was a bit worried about neck dive and there is a tad with just the neck and tuners. Adding the pickups and bridge though it balances nicely. The new bridge and pickups are more than double the weight of the originals, which is probably lucky.
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That's shaping up very nicely.
(pun intended)
You are probably completely over filing, but I wonder if the bevel in the treble side cutaway needs to extend a bit closer to the neck. If I knew how to do it I’d draw on the picture for you. It doesn’t need much, but to me I think it would look a bit more even.
I think I know what you're talking about. The uneven bevel is intentional though. It's 2.5cm all the way around except for the much larger bevel at the top. Trying to get it similar to the PRS S2 design which effectively has the centre line for the top flat shape shifted down by a couple of centimetres. The PRS bevel is maybe a little smaller though, but the kit already had a 2.5cm bevel so that's what I used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
The other thing I'm tossing up between is whether I add a pickguard or not. A lot of traditional F style basses do have pickguards and I also like the look of the PRS S2 Standard and S2 Vela which both have pickguards. I've done a mock up of what I'm thinking. It also I think makes the curves look more balanced on the treble side.
What do you think? With or without pickguard.....
Attachment 37005
I like that pickguard - looks cool. But I guess it needs to be factored in with what finish your aiming for. What are your plans there?Quote:
Originally Posted by kuanjb
That is the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakersdozen
The body has a veneer on the front and back which is a lighter colour to the core wood. So I'm thinking I need to do a solid colour. This was the intention from the beginning. Do a rattle can finish with a bit of pearl or metallic sheen to it. If I was to do that I could even cover over the back cavity with some ply wood and route from the front instead, using the pickguard as the control cover.
Another option I've been considering is trying to do a violet blue burst. I found a picture of an S2 done with that finish and I quite like it. The bevels are pretty much completely blue so might still be ok with the veneer. I can always try the stain and burst to see if it works and cover it with a solid colour later if not. I could even sand off the veneers....
Attachment 37006
Will also depend on the colour of the pickguard. I have a large piece of 3 ply purple pearl (white, black, white) which would probably look good on a solid black guitar. For a lighter coloured finish I like just plain black possibly 3 ply with a single white line.
I like the pick guard too.
It adds movement to the lines.
It looks a bit like a Phantom of the Opera mask. 🤔