Yeah, I see what you mean. Does seem a tad bit Washburn that way. Your May head seem much better by comparison. Really interested to see the hollowing shots😁
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It also depends on what sort of tuning machine you go with. I'm assuming they won't be elephant ears, as that what seem counterintuitive to the design.
Prefer the Arrow shaped headstock too.
It's been a case of All Quiet On The Tasman Front re this build thread recently, but I have been beavering away. Hopefully I can get these photos to upload from the new phone I can barely understand...
First shot is the body prototype cut out. This is all done in cheapo pine before I start butchering decent timber.
#2 is the contouring for the leg and belly cuts. So far the body is very well balanced, but we'll see what happens once the neck is on.
#3 shows the final chambering pattern about to be transferred to the body. Hogging out has commenced and a top is being prepped- also in cheapo pine.
The body is hopefully going to be still made of Tassie Blackwood, but I spied a slice of sycamore which might be used for the top.... once the prototype has proved instructive.
Stay tuned!
Noice, that shape really is unique and the chambering fascinates me. I watch on with great interest,
And just like that it all goes pear-shaped. Thanks to father's well-intentioned attempt at helping by suggesting tools, the body blank has been ruined by application of a hand router with the wrong shaped bit and an electric plane.
Body blank #2 gets constructed tomorrow. Glad it was just cheapo pine or I'd be killing people by now.
bummer BG but on the bright side you have learnt alot with the first body and it's not expensive timber
I have an electric plane. It came with a suite if AEG cordless power tools from a green edifice that shall not be named. I had used it once when sizing wood for a test neck. It shall never be powered up again.
I have a no. 6 hand plane and a Japanese block plane, these I use often and sharpen regularly. They work well.
Pine and routers can be troublesome, it has a tendency to bind and tear easily. When close to the edges or a thin wall, you really have to allow yourself more safety margin I have found. Easier to fix up final edges or profiles with sandpaper and a block or files and rasps.
Been a trifle slack on the uploading front but here are some facebook pics of the progress thus far:
#1 shows the chambering templates I've made for the body- when the "real" timber is ready for the sacrifice. This was fun, in the loosest sense of the word.
#2 shows the neck in very early progress. I anticipate this is hoing to tale a while to get right, so I'll be taking it slow and steady on this bit.
#3 shows the top prototype with markings for the soundholes. Deliberately striped markings to match the Thylacine theme.