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I agree with Marcel. That poly will have soaked in to a reasonable depth.
If you use a poly lacquer dark tinted spray, (or another paint type suitable for spraying on poly), you could do a sunburst so that the lighter areas are mainly covered up and are a lot darker. In the photos, the main areas you can see the lighter colours are the upper horn and upper rear bout, so good locations for hiding/disguising with a burst.
fair enough Marcel/Simon, I didn't think about how much the poly would have soaked in the veneer.
Simon's suggestion of a burst could work.
Hmmm...
Might have to get the tin of Black out and practice with my spray technique first..
Doesn't need to be black, but it does depend on what dark but transparent lacquer is available to you.
The Black would be a tin of automotive gloss that I found in my shed while I was looking for something else (my old vacuum tube data books)... Black is purely for practice.
Dark lacquer I would have to buy or mix up. Stocks on hand are all clear nil tint types with the majority also being rattle cans...
Hey Marcel, if you did Wok's idea of wet sanding you will get to a point where there may be enough of the flame poking through to re-stain and there will be other parts where the poly has soaked in much deeper. It could end up like a reverse grain pop where the 2nd stain coat would come up darker and also help tie it all together.
Had a thought, but I'm unsure...
I know the ratios of the primary dyes I used in the original water based stain mix. If I make up another stain mix but use the water based Poly instead of straight water then I should have a Purple Poly that I can use to rebuild my burst. The centre of the body is about the right colour so that would only need clear Poly, however the tinted stuff should/could/might darken the edges without loosing much of the flame. Keep doing coats until it is/was dark enough..
Comments anyone ??
Proof test it on some scrap and see what happens Marcel, it is an interesting thought and it may work the way you think. Or, it might not.
It may work as per FW scrap wood test advisable
https://www.hunker.com/12544172/how-...o-polyurethane
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Thanks for the link Andrew, but all I got was a few images and nil text.