First Build LP1-SP

The placement of the capacitor on the tone pot basically boils down to the builders choice on what would be the strongest mechanical position for the capacitor.

So long as the tone pot and the tone capacitor form a series chain from the signal at the volume pot to ground (or Earth as some call it), and the correct two points on the tone pot are used, then it is all good....There is nil electrical difference if the capacitor or the tone pot is first in the chain.

The electrons don't care if they visit the capacitor or the tone pot firsts, it is the interaction between the cap and pot that is important. The value of the resistance of the pot (where the shaft rotation is set to at that time) and the value of the capacitor form a type of series filter that allows the higher frequencies to pass through. Change the value of either and we change how the filter works, and thus the frequencies and the amount of those frequencies that are permitted to pass through the filter to ground within the guitar instead of out the output jack to your amplifier.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Marcel, then i am going what i see to be the easiest way, the one one the Pitbull vid

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

It should sit right back in that pocket. Just check if the screw holes all line up, then check the nut to the middle of 12 fret distance and 12 fret-bridge saddles, they should be about the same. If the 12-Bridge is significantly longer then you might need to get that neck sitting back further.

It might just be a case of it binding on the corner radii, or something similar in the bac of the pocket, so just check for rough spots or rubs in the back of it before you do any serious worrying.

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It does sit right back in the pocket, there was a slight rise where the router hadn't done the job dead square but that is out now and still sits to me too high, leveling that bit in the pocket hasn't made any noticable difference. The 12th fret distances are only a couple of mm out, but noticed a slight bow in the neck which i know I can straighten with the nut. Putting a straight edge along the neck to the bridge I calculate the bottom of the bridge will be raised about 5mm, The Bottom of the fretboard is sticking up around 3 mm, excuse the crappy pic, I need a new phone....

bridge heights are designed to be adjusted for just this reason.
However the other options are to either take some out of the neck pocket, or the neck heal or both.
Take care as you don't want to change the neck angle

I'm not sure that there is an issue there TBH Chris, I'll check with my LP kit when I get home but that sounds pretty standard to me in terms of height at the back of the board.

Oh this sanding is doing my head in, thought I had it all done good apart from not touching the veneered top yet, watched a vid on youtube where a guy said to slightly wipe down with a damp cloth, think i was going against the grain, when it dried after a few minutes there were lots of fibres sticking up..... spent another 2 hours going the other way now... we shall see soon.

As I'm doing a Wudtone finish they only say use a 240 grade before the base coat goes on.

The spalt on that is wicked, it looks like a bird!

The Wudtone has arrived, delayed a while because I was torn between the colours, neck I am going colourless, its a mahogany neck anyway so should in my mind look ok, done the sides and back in Carmine Gypsy, the spalt on the front will be done the same way. first base coat on, soaked in well, next coats use a mix with a wood filler.

Might even get round to a bit of soldering tonight, try out the soldering iron

Should have read the instructions... rushed already.... put a base coat on first.... should have been the deep colour one... ah well.. we will see how this turns out... looks ok anyway slapped a deep colour coat on too after a couple of hours..

Doh! I know there are some really early threads on this forum that deal with wudtone.