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Hello Fretworn. I dyed the rest of the body last night so the whole body is black apart from the top (and the white binding.)
I do require some expert input right now please.
Firstly,
I have not sanded the top at all. I did give it a fairly heavy going over with 0000 steel wool yesterday, especially in the middle. The question is, can I confidently lightly sand the top with say 1200 grit dry without going through the laminate?
I am in 2 minds about this as I think it will look good as it is but most likely better if I get it right with sanding it back and hitting it with some more red.
I sanded the sides and rear with 320 before dying it. I am not sure if I should sand that again before the tru-oil?
Decisions decisions.
Chris
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1200 grit is polishing level, so you won't do much veneer thinning with it unless you use it for a very long time. The dye is alcohol based, so shouldn't have raised any grain that needs sanding, but there's nothing stopping you running over lightly with the 1200 grit to catch any loose fibres that may still be sticking up.
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http://i.imgur.com/XBGQrsJ.jpg
After the first round of standard Tru-oil on the top. It looks like I am going to have to go at the binding again!
Chris
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That happens. The good thing is, you have a brilliant looking top going there!
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I used Angelous Dyes on my last refinished guitar.
The same colours as well haha.
After using the dye i sprayed a sanding sealer on the body of the guitar and after that just a couple of layers of nitro.
Didnt have to worry about the binding or anything like that.
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Oh my that looks amazing. Absolutely convincing me that I should do an MM-1 kit for myself haha
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It's getting there.
I was going crazy as the Tru-oil was getting sucked up by the quilted maple like you wouldn't believe. Within 10mins of applying a thick coat it was gone. Finally, after another thick rub-in last night, this morning only half of it had disappeared. So, this afternoon I gave it a shot with the Tru-oil aerosol and it has almost all remained on top bar a couple of spots that are more exposed (open grain). She's quite rough, but I'll do another coat with the can in a few hours and then wait a couple of days at least before tackling the binding and giving it a light sand.
What I found out was that I really should have laid a coat of sanding sealer first to avoid all the fun I've had with the Tru-oil so far. The excess dye on the top of the timber kept coming off when applying the TO and then onto the freshly scraped binding. On the plus side, the black edges seem to have lightened off and the red is coming through more nicely. It is much, much darker than originally planned, but it was my own fault. If I don't tell anyone, they'll still think it looks good and it was suppose to be dark. LOL
Chris
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Rather than use a sanding sealer, there is the purpose designed Tru Oil sealer and filler https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refin...er-Filler.aspx. It says that if your wood is stained, you'll need to use this before using the normal Tru Oil.
I've never used Tru Oil, so I have no idea whether their sealer keeps the stain where it was, but I would assume so. It doesn't appear to be particularly pleasant stuff, so you should wear gloves and a vapour mask when applying. I don't know how compatible a normal sanding sealer would be with Tru-Oil.
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.....interesting. Regardless, it is all working now. I'll probably still just go directly with the black back and sides too but I might go straight with the aerosol this time.
Chris
