Here we go... Muzza's first build. Non PBG PRS-1TS

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Have you used the stain coat and given it at least 3 days curing between coats ?

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Wokks, the DingoTone only arrived today.

Here's my understanding of what I'm meant to do.

1) apply 3 - 4 base coats, allowing to dry a bit between coats.
2) wait 3, 4 or 5 days and do 1) again
3) do 2 again
4) maybe do 2 again
5) apply ONE coat of intensifier coat and leave for 3 days.

This is where my quickly diminishing confidence grinds to a halt.

How many coats of intensifier will I need and what does it actually do? (Please don't say it 'intensifies') Is it just another type of dye that's not meant for bare wood?

I'm doing a burst (brave for a first build???) and each base colour has a corresponding intensifier. Do I have to be really careful with the blending, like on the burst base coats? I'm concerned because in the video, and I've also read here in the forums, that it's important to not overwork the intensifying coat.

I have no issues with the woodworking or electronics side of building these guitars, but I'm starting to think I should've gone the airbrush route...

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

I will get in trouble for suggesting this but Feast Watson Proof Tint Black will give you darker results. The shade of black you got is similar to wudtone black magic woman, it's not really a black black

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Yes, I saw that great ES-2V burst with the wudtone Black Magic Woman and although the top of the guitar looked fabulous, the back and neck really ruined the guitar for me.

I was assured that DT Black Stump was so black, it makes all the other blacks run and hide, but I feel they're all coming out of hiding and having a laugh.

If I got the Feast Watson stuff, is that compatible with the DingoTone finish coat. And would I still need to use the intensifier?

Hey Muzz, each of the guys have a different take on how to apply DT. Its a bit of an artform. Wokks has done a few bursts with it so he can give you some tips. I would apply as many stain coats as you think you need to reach the colour you want. the colour deepens the longer you leave it to cure. The colour will also deepen when you apply the intensifier coat. Make sure you shake well before use and put the cap on tightly after use so i doesn't dry out. Being on the sunny coast you may want to ask Wazkelly his advice too in dealing with the humidity and DT.
Stain coats are easy and the DT takes well to different wood types. I had some issues over peak summer in Brissy with the drying time with the DT intensifier coat in the humidity. Like Waz I finished in TO, which is fine, looks good but part of me wished I had stuck to my guns with the DT, persevered and waited longer. I think i just became impatient. I just got my DT for my TLA-1R build so it looks as i'll be staining along with you. I'll be sticking with the DT this time till the bitter end.....good luck mate.

Hi Muzz, with my couple of EX builds I found the viscosity differed between batches of DT where the Experimental Orange was more of a clear liquid look and coloured up really quick and strong whilst the 2nd batch of CG used on the EX1 was almost like peanut satay sauce once shaken up and totally different to CG batch used with OS to create the Orange. On the EX1 it took forever to start showing any real colour and it took 5 coats and the whole bottle of stain with no dramas. Most coats were done at night after work with no less than 24 hours to no more than 48 apart and stain coats worked out fine, even with the humidity we had leading up to xmas. Intensifier deepened the colour a bit at a time with this batch whereas on 1st build it was like playing with a contrast knob as the difference was immediately noticeable. On each build it got ugly at around 3rd, 4th or 5th intensifier coat as things started to look patchy with dry and shiny bits here and there. In hindsight I was probably too greedy chasing more colour and each layer of intensifier after 2nd coat was probably just adding more thickness and additional drying time before you could scuff sand with 0000 steel wool to prepare for a DT top coat. Only ever applied one DT top coat on the Orange axe and it turned to poo requiring a 400 grit wet sand to remove the shite and consequently plenty of colour too. Gave up in disgust and reluctantly went with TO as it seems to be more forgiving in relation to heat and humidity conditions. Still got around 3 full DT top coat bottles and 1 full DT clear neck finish that may get an encore on one of the DIY kit builds but not sure of shelf life for unopened product?

In summary, all I can say is have a go and be patient between coats 3 - 5 of stain, and even more patient between intensifier coats. The temptation is rub more of the finish in harder on each application and after using TO the penny has dropped in that less on the rag and done over a few more applications seems to be the answer.

Let's face it, Feb is our worst month and once that is behind us weather conditions should start to improve, hence why I am currently mucking around with wiring on other projects at present.

As far as I understand the intensifier just makes the colour of the finish more vivid, or "pop" more, as for how many applications of it, I'm guessing you just keep applying coats till you get the effect you're after, I haven't even tried using intensifier on a guitar build yet so don't take my word as gospel, I'm just going by what I understand that's all.

How will I know when it's OK to put on another set of base coats?

And do I rub down with 0000 steel wool first?

Muzz I was going to respond but I realised you are going for a burst. PM Wokkaboy for his tips on how to burst with DT. He would have posted already but i understand he's been really busy at work.

When I was laying down a single stain, I wanted it dark, so I kept applying DT until I got the rough colour I was after. then waited a week to cure. I wanted to add more at that stage so I kept going again waited a week to cure until I got the deep colour I was after. It was a lot easier than what you are going for because 1. it wasn't a burst and 2. I wanted the colour as deep as I could get it.

I did not sand or steel wool between stain coats, you shouldn't need to. The wood needs a bit of "tooth" for the stain to grab on, steel wool will only polish the "tooth" out.

Agree with Andy about the steel wool as it only comes into play when trying to smooth things out in preparation for the top coats that obviously you want much smoother than the initial layers.

Burst may be trickier but if patient and take your time should work out ok. One of Woks threads mentions using separate rags. One for each of the solid colours and a fresh one for blending the colours to create the burst effect.

Hmmmmm.. The black should be a heck of a lot darker than that.
If you like, I am happy to send you another black stump kit cause that one just isnt cutting the mustard.

On another note, it appears the instructions might not be as concise as required...
Sigh, another job to add to my ever growing list.........

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Originally Posted by dingobass

If you like, I am happy to send you another black stump kit cause that one just isn't cutting the mustard.

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Yes please and thank you...

Question time...

1) Do you think the Black Stump intensifier will still be OK?

2) Should I start to remove the Black Stump coats I've already applied, or will I be able to apply the replacement straight over the top of it?

3) I suppose I could use this non-mustard-cutting 'Black Stump' as the grain popper? Or do I need to use something more 'black' for that purpose?

4) Nobody seems to want to answer this one - how I will know when I can apply the second lot of stain coats?

5) Can I speed up the drying process by putting the body and neck in direct sunshine? Or in a room with a de-humidifier?

Thanks again. Good customer service.